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Replacement Upper Ball Joint Mounting Bolt Torque Specs?
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Replacement Upper Ball Joint Mounting Bolt Torque Specs?
Just bought a new upper control arm ball joint for each side while I do my strano springs and konis. Since the new one will not be riveted in, what are the torque specs for the three new bolts? The box doesnt say. I assume that too much will stress the bolts into snapping, and too little will obviously not be enough, so if anybody knows a generic number so that I feel more safe when assembling these, please let me know. Thanks.
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Thanks vernon. I'll have to look at them again. I made them as physically tight as I coud before I put them on. Theres something irking me about having those bolts where the factory rivets used to be, I dont wanna be driving down the freeway and have my upper ball joint give out, that would cost me my life! I appreciate your feedback, when the car gets inspected after the complete swap I will have the shop look at it to make sure its safe.
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As a thought, the castle nut is truely what holds the assembly together based upon the mechanical design of the joint if I am correct. I say this because it sandwiches the upper control arm between the backing plate of the ball joint and the ball joint screw which is supported by the castle nut. It appears that the replacement nuts/factory rivets hold the ball joint in place while possibly providing lateral (side to side, front to back) support.
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I just looked in two different GM shop manuals...Nether gives a torque spec for the bolts/nuts that retain the ball joint to the a-arm. The one manual says to follow the instructions that come with the part.
For the nut that retains the BJ stud to the spindle, 39 ft./lbs. BUT do NOT loosen, in order to insert the cotter pin. If 39 ft./lbs. puts you between slots, tighten until the next slot can be used.
For the nut that retains the BJ stud to the spindle, 39 ft./lbs. BUT do NOT loosen, in order to insert the cotter pin. If 39 ft./lbs. puts you between slots, tighten until the next slot can be used.