Would you change your plugs and wires at 36k?
#1
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Would you change your plugs and wires at 36k?
I just recently bought my car and so far I took care of just about everything (all fluid and filter changes). The plugs and wires are the only thing I never dealt with yet. Everything is running as good as I could ask for, should I still change the plugs and wires at this mileage? I am pretty sure they are the original plugs on there.
Just curious to what you guys would do.
Just curious to what you guys would do.
#3
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Pull a couple easy ones from each bank that are easy to get too and see what's in there/how they look. You're probably fine if they're the stock plugs.
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yes change them!! the stock platinum has probobly already shot through the exhaust by now, put some NGK TR55's or the TR55IX iridium those are great plugs, u can also go with the MSD 8.5MM wires those are good wires also, all this shouldent cost much
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there is a speical socket slp sells. but if u have long tubes on ur car its real easy from the bottom. if its stock, move the coil pack out of the way and u might be able to get it form the top! and u can have somebody guide u from the bottom
#12
I just recently bought my car and so far I took care of just about everything (all fluid and filter changes). The plugs and wires are the only thing I never dealt with yet. Everything is running as good as I could ask for, should I still change the plugs and wires at this mileage? I am pretty sure they are the original plugs on there.
Just curious to what you guys would do.
Just curious to what you guys would do.
If you do decide to get new wires however, just spend $36.00 and go to Advance Auto parts. I've been using them on my ~500 RWHP 427ci and they do just as good as the factory wires and they did exactly the same as my piece of **** Taylor 10.4mm Thunderbolts. Pulling them AT THE BOOT when I changed my plugs....5 of the 8 broke. They suck!!!! The clips got stuck on the spark plugs and pulls right out of the boot. And yes, I used dielectric grease so they wouldn't get stuck on there. Also, good thing I kept all 8 of my factory wires, I put them back on and the engine performed identical. You don't need upgraded wires until you're making near 600 RWHP.
#14
Note*** the 1" long, 3/4 socket can be used if you need more room for some of the other plugs.
Last edited by needadvice; 06-19-2008 at 05:49 PM.
#15
I say no to the plug wires too unless you pull the terminal off one.
I did a google search on wires and found an LS1 specific comparison. They listed the ohm readings of a lot of wires.
I got some of the better ones, but never installed them because my stock 2001 90,000 mile wires had less ohms than the performance brand.
On an LS1 you have no worry about crossfiring or wires rubbing against anything, so if the resistance is ok the wire is ok.
I did a google search on wires and found an LS1 specific comparison. They listed the ohm readings of a lot of wires.
I got some of the better ones, but never installed them because my stock 2001 90,000 mile wires had less ohms than the performance brand.
On an LS1 you have no worry about crossfiring or wires rubbing against anything, so if the resistance is ok the wire is ok.
#18
Also, I am about to start pulling them. My engine has been off for 4 hours is that long enough? The engine is luke warm I don't want to **** my engine up.
#19
#8 is easy if you have a swivel head socket wrench with a long handle for leverage. A standard spark plug socket from any normal tool kit will work for it.
The trick is to remove the coil packs on the passenger side. Then #8 is accessible from literally behind the engine. You reach over the engine from where the coils were, then with the swivel head go towards 8 which is angled to the back. The longer handle will give the leverage needed to break it loose with the minimal space back there. Short stubby wrenches are just asking for pain.
Look for a long handle swivel head socket wrench.
Snap on has a good one, but I'm sure you can track one down at a local tool store.
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...aponswivel.jpg
This is a handy tool for LS1 work, I use a swivel head more than any other socket wrench I have.
The trick is to remove the coil packs on the passenger side. Then #8 is accessible from literally behind the engine. You reach over the engine from where the coils were, then with the swivel head go towards 8 which is angled to the back. The longer handle will give the leverage needed to break it loose with the minimal space back there. Short stubby wrenches are just asking for pain.
Look for a long handle swivel head socket wrench.
Snap on has a good one, but I'm sure you can track one down at a local tool store.
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/upl...aponswivel.jpg
This is a handy tool for LS1 work, I use a swivel head more than any other socket wrench I have.
#20
LMAO, i changed plugs and wires at 29k, went to NGK55 and msd wires though
from stockers
from stockers
I just recently bought my car and so far I took care of just about everything (all fluid and filter changes). The plugs and wires are the only thing I never dealt with yet. Everything is running as good as I could ask for, should I still change the plugs and wires at this mileage? I am pretty sure they are the original plugs on there.
Just curious to what you guys would do.
Just curious to what you guys would do.