Hotrod406

iTrader: (6)

I have this setup in my 71 Corvette and it works great. I didn't see any other info on here so I thought I'd share my story for reference purposes.

Car is a 71 Vette with 6.0, Fidanza LS7 flywheel (ebay $350) and GM LS7 clutch kit (don't remember, $225). The bellhousing is a Lakewood LS1 conversion unit (one different bolt hole basically). I'm using a stock 71 Vette TO bearing and stock fork. I have an adjustable pivot ball adjusted all the way out. A good part of the reason that the pivot is adjusted all the way out is the Lakewood bell is exactly the same depth as the stock one but has an 1/8" block plate with it so now it's 1/8" deeper than a stock one, therefore pushing the whole trans and pivot ball 1/8 further back.

There is a definite break in period with the LS7 clutch. It is very grabby and hard to drive smoothly at first. This went away in about 100 miles or so and now it works great. Pedal effort is on the stiff side too. My dad's Vette has a Centerforce clutch and the effort is about half of my clutch. The LS7 is not terrible, I don't have to put it in neutral at stop lights or anything, but it is stiffer than my stock clutch and way stiffer than Dad's Centerforce.

I made motor mount adapter plates that place the bellhousing exactly where the stock one was so I didn't have to move the tranny. I also made my own Z-bar pivot mount, but I hear that the SDPC one works too. Speed Hound on the Corvetteforum has a Z-bar mount available also.

I used a pilot bearing from GM. I don't have the part number here at work but I'll get it and update this post. I put the motor in the car with no flywheel so I was able to check to make sure that the input shaft seated into the bearing properly. There is not a lot of info about this bearing. A lot of people use an extended bushing but I like this better.

I hope this data helps someone out there in swap land.

Tim

Novas Forever

Hotrod406 - sounds like you did the same basic think that I did. I used the stock F-body flywheel, recommended Ram clutch, pilot bearing number I found here, Lakewood scattershield to get a 'container' that the clutch setup would fit in for my Chevy II. I used a 'long' throwout bearing and the adjustable pivot to get the clutch arm where it needed to be. You make it sound easier that it was, but it is definitely do-able.

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

My LS7 pressure plate is about 1/2 the effort of the stock clutch of my stock '00 Mustang GT's clutch.

Hotrod406

iTrader: (6)

Even with a mech linkage?

DCx

iTrader: (12)

for sure. my ls7 clutch in my 69 is like butter. the clutch in my 01 cobra is so heavy!

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

Running hydraulic on the T56. Should be the same either way though if matched the throwout bearing travel requirements for the LS7 pressure plate.

If the LS7 is heavier with the mechanical linkage, it means you are getting too much travel at the throwout bearing and need to adjust by drilling a new hole on the clutch pedal or bellcrank.

jeepinpete

Or, your angles between the release arm and the throw out bearing are off. I would bet money a longer throw out bearing would reduce your pedal effort alot.

Hotrod406

iTrader: (6)

You're probably right. I have the adjustable pivot ball all the way out. I have the long style Corvette TO bearing already though. I'm not sure what I can do there.

I did make an adjustment on the linkage and the effort is quite a bit lower now but still a lot heavier than the Centerforce on my dad's Gen1 motor.