DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

ok i plan on installing the ls6 intake on my 98 z and i know u can used the stock coolant lines but where exactly do u have to grind down the fins.. can anyone post up before and after pics and wht they used to remove them.. i read u can used a wooden chisel and a hammer?? thnks guys for ur advice ...

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

Dude:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/643065-where-grind-fins-ls6-manifold.html

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

yeah and no need for a hammer and chizel...it would take too long,not to mention you could easily crack the manifold

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I used a hammer and chisel. Worked great. Won't hurt the manifold. Just whack 'em off ... so to speak.

Nothing more silly, IMO, than wasting money on the later style coolant tube set-up. Completely unnecessary.

johnLs1camaro

iTrader: (28)

well i did the grinder and it cut right through...i dont know just hammering something sharp in the manifold would kinda scare me

bluestrat

iTrader: (7)

I tried grinding mine and it was a major pain in the ***. Then I busted out the hammer and chisel and wacked them off in under 10 mins. Definitely recommend the latter method!

DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

thnks guys im gonna try the chisel method hopefully i dont break anything!

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

The LS6 intake don't use the return to the rear, .The fitting on the rear are blocked off and the front is only a cross over pipe. The tube the goes from the front to the rear is deleted.You can get them from a GM dealer =
12551933 - Coolant Seals, Head: 4 each required
12602540 - Coolant Air Bleed Plug, rear: 2 each required
12602544 - Coolant crossover pipe, LS6: 1 each required
11517591 - Rear Coolant plug bolts (M6 x 1.0 x 30mm): 2 each required
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DSRCAM

iTrader: (3)

sweet man, thnks for the tip... i guess when it comes down to it ill figure it out haha...

DarkhorSe_SS

iTrader: (15)

just knock em all off raymond... I just did this over the weekend and it wasn't too bad despite me ripping my skin when I try to loosen/tighten the back bolts on the manifold. Click my screen name and look for my thread. Make sure you are very careful removing the intake/replacing with the booster hose since the oil sensor unit is in the way.
Gl man

toneloc60

iTrader: (7)

I just cut mine off after the Y in the front, and left nubs on the two back connections. Then I busted out the good 'ole JB Weld, filled the openings where I cut them off and crimped them. No leaks and it does the job with only $4 invested into the stick of JB Weld.