Round 3: 370 LSX Block Trans Am / F-1A Procharged / Est. 900+ RWHP (LOTS of PICS!)
08-18-2008, 11:10 PM
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Round 3: 370 LSX Block Trans Am / F-1A Procharged / Est. 900+ RWHP (LOTS of PICS!) Here’s the latest info on my efforts to kick the power up to the next notch on my Trans Am. Fraser at Speed Inc. has made a number of posts regarding this car and again played a key role in this latest round of upgrades. Thanks again to Speed Inc. for all of the great customer service and continued support toward this monster.
A detailed list of all of the upgrades on the car will be added at the end of this post. All of the latest upgrades were installed over the last few weeks in my home garage. The gameplan for this rebuild was as follows:
1. Bigger Cam – 234/240 .598/.609 on 114 LSA
2. Larger Fuel Injectors – RC Engineering 72 lb High Impedance
3. GZ Motorports Vacuum Pump (VP 103 Pro Pump – Part # LSXSVPCK112)
4. Yella Terra Roller Rockers
5. Removed A/C Pump + Condenser
6. Ron Davis Radiator
7. Jet Hot 2000 Coating on Headers
8. Moroso Spiral Flow Mufflers Traded for a Couple DynaTech Cone Baffles in the Turndowns.
9. Exhaust is Still A True Racing Exhaust which dumps only 24” from the header collectors
10. Moroso Oil Pan + Remote Oil Filter
11. Vortech Bypass Valve Traded for Procharger Race (Open) Bypass Valve
12. LOTS of ARP bolt upgrades
13. A.I.R. System Removed, SES Codes Deleted in HP Tuners
14. Re-tune Scheduled at MAC Autosport in Denver, CO
Chapter 1: Initial Teardown
Here’s some shots of the car as I start to pull her apart
After removing the radiator + A/C there is a huge amount of space to work with in the F-body cars. I admittedly would use the top support rail as a seat while working on the engine. The sway bar makes a great foot rest!
Notice the chunk cut out of the lower support rail? … That’s for the F-1A intake. It allows you to put a 4” 90 degree elbow on the blower for minimum flow restriction. You’ll see later on …
I snapped a few more shots as I dug my way to the camshaft.
Chapter 2: LSX Camshaft Retaining Plate Removal
*** Here’s the first BIG roadblock that I hit. LSX BLOCK OWNERS BE WARNED!!! ***
The retaining plate that holds the camshaft in position on the LSX is EXTREMELY difficult to remove. You must use button head type bolts on this plate to clear a double roller timing chain. Hence… just like countersunk socket heads, the bolts will have the tendancy to strip out. Out of the 6 qty. M8 button head bolts that hold the retaining plate on, ALL 6 BOLTS STRIPPED OUT!! I tried every technique fathomable … light / gentle effort by hand using an “L” shaped allen wrench, an ultralight tap from an impact wrench, using a 3/8” ratchet, nothing worked. I cleaned the oil out of the bolts thouroughly before trying to remove them. So, out of the 6 bolts, I was able to extract the upper two only. The lower four wouldn’t budge. The heads broke off leaving the shaft of the bolt in the socket. So I ended up having to completely redrill and retap the lower 4 holes to M12 bolt size. Before you ask … yes, an M12 button head will clear a double roller timing cog on the 4 lower holes only.
Here’s the blasted camshaft retainer plate on the LSX block
4 lower holes re-drilled and retapped to M12 size.
Here’s how the 4 qty. M12 button heads will look …
Chapter 3: Raising the Lifters
*** Here’s the 2nd big road block that I hit. The lifters won’t stay up on their own!! ***
For those of you changing the heads at this point … not a big deal. However, if you had not planned on pulling the heads … now you have a problem. I had Speed Inc. install Comp Cams High Energy Lifters … not sure if it is the lifter or the housing in the LSX block that is preventing then from retaining themselves in the up position.
Fraser at Speed Inc. suggested using magnets. I found the following setup worked perfectly:
Materials:
- 3/8-16 Threaded Rod (6 qty. 3 ft. sections from Home Depot)
- .469" x .125" Neodymium magnets (Ace Hardware)
- 3/8 Flange Nuts
- Super Glue
Procedure
1. Cut the 3/8-16 threaded rods into 12" sections. 2 qty. sections will need to be 8" because of clearance issues toward the back of the engine.
2. Super glue 1 qty. .469" x .125" Neodymium magnet on the end of each threaded rod.
3. *** IMPORTANT: Let the super glue cure for 12 hours. ***
4. Test each threaded rod assembly on something metal to insure the magnet is solidly attached and will not separate. A magnet left on a lifter = you're screwed.
5. Add 3/8" flange nuts onto each threaded rod. These are used to hold the rod + lifter in the fully raised position.
Here are the magnets in position holding the lifters in the up position…
A detailed list of all of the upgrades on the car will be added at the end of this post. All of the latest upgrades were installed over the last few weeks in my home garage. The gameplan for this rebuild was as follows:
1. Bigger Cam – 234/240 .598/.609 on 114 LSA
2. Larger Fuel Injectors – RC Engineering 72 lb High Impedance
3. GZ Motorports Vacuum Pump (VP 103 Pro Pump – Part # LSXSVPCK112)
4. Yella Terra Roller Rockers
5. Removed A/C Pump + Condenser
6. Ron Davis Radiator
7. Jet Hot 2000 Coating on Headers
8. Moroso Spiral Flow Mufflers Traded for a Couple DynaTech Cone Baffles in the Turndowns.
9. Exhaust is Still A True Racing Exhaust which dumps only 24” from the header collectors
10. Moroso Oil Pan + Remote Oil Filter
11. Vortech Bypass Valve Traded for Procharger Race (Open) Bypass Valve
12. LOTS of ARP bolt upgrades
13. A.I.R. System Removed, SES Codes Deleted in HP Tuners
14. Re-tune Scheduled at MAC Autosport in Denver, CO
Chapter 1: Initial Teardown
Here’s some shots of the car as I start to pull her apart
After removing the radiator + A/C there is a huge amount of space to work with in the F-body cars. I admittedly would use the top support rail as a seat while working on the engine. The sway bar makes a great foot rest!
Notice the chunk cut out of the lower support rail? … That’s for the F-1A intake. It allows you to put a 4” 90 degree elbow on the blower for minimum flow restriction. You’ll see later on …
I snapped a few more shots as I dug my way to the camshaft.
Chapter 2: LSX Camshaft Retaining Plate Removal
*** Here’s the first BIG roadblock that I hit. LSX BLOCK OWNERS BE WARNED!!! ***
The retaining plate that holds the camshaft in position on the LSX is EXTREMELY difficult to remove. You must use button head type bolts on this plate to clear a double roller timing chain. Hence… just like countersunk socket heads, the bolts will have the tendancy to strip out. Out of the 6 qty. M8 button head bolts that hold the retaining plate on, ALL 6 BOLTS STRIPPED OUT!! I tried every technique fathomable … light / gentle effort by hand using an “L” shaped allen wrench, an ultralight tap from an impact wrench, using a 3/8” ratchet, nothing worked. I cleaned the oil out of the bolts thouroughly before trying to remove them. So, out of the 6 bolts, I was able to extract the upper two only. The lower four wouldn’t budge. The heads broke off leaving the shaft of the bolt in the socket. So I ended up having to completely redrill and retap the lower 4 holes to M12 bolt size. Before you ask … yes, an M12 button head will clear a double roller timing cog on the 4 lower holes only.
Here’s the blasted camshaft retainer plate on the LSX block
4 lower holes re-drilled and retapped to M12 size.
Here’s how the 4 qty. M12 button heads will look …
Chapter 3: Raising the Lifters
*** Here’s the 2nd big road block that I hit. The lifters won’t stay up on their own!! ***
For those of you changing the heads at this point … not a big deal. However, if you had not planned on pulling the heads … now you have a problem. I had Speed Inc. install Comp Cams High Energy Lifters … not sure if it is the lifter or the housing in the LSX block that is preventing then from retaining themselves in the up position.
Fraser at Speed Inc. suggested using magnets. I found the following setup worked perfectly:
Materials:
- 3/8-16 Threaded Rod (6 qty. 3 ft. sections from Home Depot)
- .469" x .125" Neodymium magnets (Ace Hardware)
- 3/8 Flange Nuts
- Super Glue
Procedure
1. Cut the 3/8-16 threaded rods into 12" sections. 2 qty. sections will need to be 8" because of clearance issues toward the back of the engine.
2. Super glue 1 qty. .469" x .125" Neodymium magnet on the end of each threaded rod.
3. *** IMPORTANT: Let the super glue cure for 12 hours. ***
4. Test each threaded rod assembly on something metal to insure the magnet is solidly attached and will not separate. A magnet left on a lifter = you're screwed.
5. Add 3/8" flange nuts onto each threaded rod. These are used to hold the rod + lifter in the fully raised position.
Here are the magnets in position holding the lifters in the up position…
08-18-2008, 11:11 PM
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Thread the flange nut down to hold each lifter in the raised position.
Camshaft removed … SCORE!!
Lube up that new camshaft and stick it in quick before the lifters drop!! The magnets are like Viagra … only good for a short time.
Remove each magnet + threaded rod one at a time and double check that each magnet was removed. If a magnet gets left on a lifter … sorry you’re screwed!
Here’s the camshaft retaining plate reinstalled with the new bolts…
I installed the camshaft timing cog without the chain to check clearance (i.e. rotate the cog) … no issues with M12 bolts on the lower 4 holes. On the upper two holes, this would not be possible.
The chain is back on. Don’t forget that bearing behind the timing chain cog!
Chapter 4: Moroso Oil Pan
OK, with the new camshaft installed, next task was the Moroso oil pan. Was this mod essential … NO. Will this mod reduce weight and provide better oil control … YES! Is this mod difficult to install … EXTREMELY! Be aware, the two lower bolts that connect the transmission to the stock oil pan will become history. It took me a while to get the guts to get through that … maybe it’s stupidity … we’ll find out. However, looking at the Powerglide and TH400 transmissions … they don’t even use the two lower bolt holes. So … hopefully I’m safe. Having the transmission separate from the engine at 135 mph = one hell of a nightmare.
Here’s some pictures comparing the stock oil pan to the Moroso oil pan…
You MUST use an engine lift to get clearance to remove the stock oil pan …
Here’s the stock oil tube + windage tray…
Windage tray removed. Those are Callies Compstar rods with ARP 2000 bolts.
New Moroso windage tray installed. LSX owners, You will have to redrill the holes in the windage tray to a slightly larger size to fit over the O.D. of the 4-bolt bolt mains.
08-18-2008, 11:12 PM
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IMPORTANT NOTE: The Moroso windage tray does NOT provide clearance for the stock oil dipstick. You will need to cut a section of the windage tray out to allow clearance for the dipstick.
New Moroso oil pan installed…
NOTE: In order to get the Moroso oil pan in position, you will need to drop the K-member slightly … about 3/16”. That’s why the front wheels are suddenly off the car.
In the above photo, you can see the 7/8” wheel spacer that is required to run Willwood brakes with Weld Racing skinnies.
I’ll talk about mounting the remote oil filter later … I’ll explain.
Chapter 5: Reassembly
So now it’s time to button the engine back up. The timing chain cover and valley cover are back on…
I gave the SDCE crank pulley a nice polish before reinstalling it…
The Mezierre water pump went back on next. I plugged the heater line holes with some -08 AN caps from Jegs. Now that the water pump is back on, its time to think about the remote oil filter for the Moroso oil pan.
Chapter 6: Remote Oil Filter for Moroso oil pan
Where did I decide to mount the remote oil filter? The space where the A/C compressor used to be is perfect in my opinion. I fabricated a new mounting plate out of ¼” steel and used two of the M10 bolt holes on the block (previously used to hold the A/C compressor on) to hold the plate for the oil filter.
Here’s the plate being fabbed up…
I gave the plate a nice paint job before tightening the bolts in place.
I used -10 AN braided steel lines + fittings from Jegs for the oil lines. They are routed under the oil pan and up to the filter. I used straight AN connections at the oil pan to keep the lines away from the Kooks headers … plus I couldn’t get a wrench around the 90 degree fittings. There’s very limited access to these fittings after the headers have been installed … be warned!
New Moroso oil pan installed…
NOTE: In order to get the Moroso oil pan in position, you will need to drop the K-member slightly … about 3/16”. That’s why the front wheels are suddenly off the car.
In the above photo, you can see the 7/8” wheel spacer that is required to run Willwood brakes with Weld Racing skinnies.
I’ll talk about mounting the remote oil filter later … I’ll explain.
Chapter 5: Reassembly
So now it’s time to button the engine back up. The timing chain cover and valley cover are back on…
I gave the SDCE crank pulley a nice polish before reinstalling it…
The Mezierre water pump went back on next. I plugged the heater line holes with some -08 AN caps from Jegs. Now that the water pump is back on, its time to think about the remote oil filter for the Moroso oil pan.
Chapter 6: Remote Oil Filter for Moroso oil pan
Where did I decide to mount the remote oil filter? The space where the A/C compressor used to be is perfect in my opinion. I fabricated a new mounting plate out of ¼” steel and used two of the M10 bolt holes on the block (previously used to hold the A/C compressor on) to hold the plate for the oil filter.
Here’s the plate being fabbed up…
I gave the plate a nice paint job before tightening the bolts in place.
I used -10 AN braided steel lines + fittings from Jegs for the oil lines. They are routed under the oil pan and up to the filter. I used straight AN connections at the oil pan to keep the lines away from the Kooks headers … plus I couldn’t get a wrench around the 90 degree fittings. There’s very limited access to these fittings after the headers have been installed … be warned!
08-18-2008, 11:13 PM
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Chapter 7: Yella Terra Roller Rockers
Fraser at Speed Inc. recommended the Yella Terra roller rockers as they are a plug-in-play type part. No modifications to the valve cover or heads required.
Chapter 8: 72 lb High Impedance Fuel Injectors
With the rockers installed, the valve covers went back on and the intake manifold was reinstalled…
I use the Fast 90 mm Intake. As soon as the Weiand Street Warrior intake comes out, I will likely trade up to that one.
The fuel rails + RC fuelinjectors went on next.
NOTE: You’ll need a set of stock fuel injector o-rings. The ones supplied by RC Engineering are too thick.
Chapter 9: Reinstall Kooks Headers Freshly Coated with Jet-Hot 2000 coating
Here’s the new exhaust setup. It is essentially a racing exhaust setup / open headers. There are two 24” extensions with Dynatech cone type turndowns. The reason for the 24” extensions is to provide accurate reading at the O2 sensors. You don’t want the O2 sensors too close to the exit of the exhaust pipe where outside air can rush in and throw off the readings. With this exhaust setup, the engine idles fine at 14.7 A/F per the Autometer wideband.
Chapter 10: Reinstalling the SDCE Tensioner
The SDCE tensioner was required on the car due to belt slip. With the preload properly set on this tensioner, you can max out the F-1A.
Fraser at Speed Inc. recommended the Yella Terra roller rockers as they are a plug-in-play type part. No modifications to the valve cover or heads required.
Chapter 8: 72 lb High Impedance Fuel Injectors
With the rockers installed, the valve covers went back on and the intake manifold was reinstalled…
I use the Fast 90 mm Intake. As soon as the Weiand Street Warrior intake comes out, I will likely trade up to that one.
The fuel rails + RC fuelinjectors went on next.
NOTE: You’ll need a set of stock fuel injector o-rings. The ones supplied by RC Engineering are too thick.
Chapter 9: Reinstall Kooks Headers Freshly Coated with Jet-Hot 2000 coating
Here’s the new exhaust setup. It is essentially a racing exhaust setup / open headers. There are two 24” extensions with Dynatech cone type turndowns. The reason for the 24” extensions is to provide accurate reading at the O2 sensors. You don’t want the O2 sensors too close to the exit of the exhaust pipe where outside air can rush in and throw off the readings. With this exhaust setup, the engine idles fine at 14.7 A/F per the Autometer wideband.
Chapter 10: Reinstalling the SDCE Tensioner
The SDCE tensioner was required on the car due to belt slip. With the preload properly set on this tensioner, you can max out the F-1A.
08-18-2008, 11:13 PM
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Gave the Procharger an oil change while she was out…
Chapter 11: Ron Davis Radiator Install
The Ron Davis Radiator has been sitting in my basement for some time waiting to go back in. It was pulled during the last Speed Inc. install as the A/C condenser, F-1A Procharger, and Ron Davis radiator would not fit given the available space (i.e. the radiator was too thick). So a stock radiator was re-installed at that time.
Now that the A/C system is gone (aside from the manifold on the passenger side which will be hell to remove), the Ron Davis radiator can go back in…
Chapter 12: GZ Motorsports Vacuum Pump (VP 103 Pro)
The GZ vacuum pump was installed next. This was surprisingly easy. The hardest part was coming up with a way to mount the breather tank.
Here’s the vacuum pump installed…
I mounted the breather tank between the intercooler and the radiator. I had to fab up a mount out of sheet metal to do this. The -10 AN line runs between the battery and radiator. Allow PLENTY of clearance between the line and the positive pole of the battery to prevent shocks.
I gave the mount a nice paint job to prevent rust…
08-18-2008, 11:14 PM
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Chapter 13: F-1A Procharger Intake
Here’s my top secret F-1A Procharger intake design. It’s simple and offers extremely little air flow resistance. Here’s the parts list:
K&N Air Filter 4” x 9” Conical
4” Turbonetics Coupler
2 Qty. 4” diameter x 4” radius 90 degree steel exhaust elbows (Summit Racing)
The exhaust elbows were painted to match the intake ductwork.
The ground clearance with this design is excellent.
Chapter 14: Turning the Key for the First Time
With everything back together, I made a couple quick edits in HP Tuners to delete any SES lights from the A.I.R. pipe deletion. Then it was time to turn the key. Turing the key on a car after a major rebuild is a RUSH!! Once the engine comes to life it is the biggest relief in the world + the sound … MAN THIS THING SOUNDS MEAN!!! I’ll have to post a video the next time that I run the car at Bandimere Speedway. For now, it’s off to MAC Autosport in Parker, CO (South Denver) to strap the car on the Dynojet and retune. Here’s how she turned out:
**** STAY TUNED FOR THE DYNO NUMBERS!! … EXPECTED TO BE 900+ RWHP (DYNOJET) ****
Here’s the Full Profile:
Block: GMPP LSX Iron Block Bored to 4.030” (370 cu .in. / 6.0 L), ARP Main Studs
Compression Ratio: 8.8:1 for High Boost
Heads: AFR 225cc Mongoose LS1, 72cc Chambers, AFR 8019 Valve Springs, ARP Head Studs
Cam: Custom Comp Cam 234/240 .598/.609 LSA: 114
Pushrods: Comp Cams 7.400” – Chrome Moly,
Lifters: Comp Cams High Energy
Rocker Arms: Yella Terra Roller Rockers
Pistons: Diamond Racing Dish Style, 4.030” Bore, -15cc
Rings: Diamond Racing Pro- Select Rings
Crankshaft: Eagle LS1 4340 Forged, 3.622” Stroke
Rods: Callies Compstar 6.125” 4340 H-Beams, ARP 2000 Bolts
Throttle Body: Nick Williams 90 mm
Intake: FAST 90 mm Intake, 3-bar MAP
Fuel: Sunoco 116 Octane Leaded Race Fuel
Fuel Injectors: RC Engineering 72 lb / hr (High Impedance)
Fuel Pump: Speed Inc. Custom System, Walbro Gss392 255L
Ignition: MSD Blaster Coil Packs, MSD 8.5 mm wires, NGK TR8-IX Plugs
Engine Management: Stock GM PCM, HP Tuners 3-bar speed density, Tuned by MAC Autosport (Denver, CO) (www.macautosport.com)
Exhaust: Kooks 1 7/8” Long Tube Headers, 24” dual straight pipes to Dynatech turndowns
Power Adder: ATI Procharger F-1A (20+ psi boost) w/custom Bell front mount intercooler (4”core).
Transmission: G-Force 6-speed, stock gear ratios, triple cone synchronizers, 30 spline output shaft
Cooling: Ron Davis Radiator, SDCE Dual Fan Shroud Mezierre Electric Water Pump
Driveshaft: HD Aluminum Street Race
Front Suspension: BMR K-member, Stock A-arms, Varishocks (450 lb springs), Spohn Sway Bar
Rear Suspension: Spohn adj. lower control arms, Spohn Panhard Rod, Spohn Torque Arm, BMR subframe connectors, Stock Springs, Edelbrock Performer Shocks, Spohn Sway Bar
Rearend: Moser 12 bolt, 3.73 gears, 1350 yolk, 33 spline upgrade, TA cover
Brakes: Wilwood 6-piston caliper race brake package (front), Standard Wilwood race brake package on rear
Wheels: 2 sets
Show Car: Custom Boze ZE Forged 3-piece “Boost” Wheels w/ gloss black finish
18 x 9.5 (front), 18 x 11 (rear)
Tires: Nitto NT555 R II Extreme 305/35/18 (rear), Nitto 555 275/35/18 (front)
Racing: Weld Racing Prostar 15 x 3.5 (front) + 7/8” Spacer, 15 x 10 (rear)
Tires: Mickey Thompson Sportsman 26 x 7.5 (front), Hoosier QTP 27 x 11.5 (rear)
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08-19-2008, 01:25 AM
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Room to grow
I threw the idea of 4.125" bore and using the existing 3.622 Eagle crankshaft
we agreed on 4.030, keep the block strength, leave room for large ci later.
look at what a F series head unit is capable on 347ci SBF
I threw the idea of 4.125" bore and using the existing 3.622 Eagle crankshaft
we agreed on 4.030, keep the block strength, leave room for large ci later.
look at what a F series head unit is capable on 347ci SBF
Last edited by Fraser@SpeedInc; 08-19-2008 at 01:32 AM.
08-19-2008, 01:44 AM
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The chamber bore on AFR 1630 heads are right around 4.100"
Theirs talks of future build. One thing to keep in mind, this was one of the first LSX blocks available to public.
However, good read good work Eric on the installs. Glad I could help.
Theirs talks of future build. One thing to keep in mind, this was one of the first LSX blocks available to public.
However, good read good work Eric on the installs. Glad I could help.
08-19-2008, 04:36 AM
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AMAZING!!!
your attention to detail is just beyond me
( this is how a write-up should be done! )
one quick question though ( not that it matters now ), wouldn't it have been easier to to just pull the engine out and do all the stuff ( like the pan, cam, etc.) while it was out , then return it in?
and i am offically jealous of your garage
your attention to detail is just beyond me
( this is how a write-up should be done! )one quick question though ( not that it matters now ), wouldn't it have been easier to to just pull the engine out and do all the stuff ( like the pan, cam, etc.) while it was out , then return it in?
and i am offically jealous of your garage
08-19-2008, 05:33 AM
#19
You did an awesome job with the install, pic's and write-up! We had a similar air intake on a customer's car, and we ended up having to add a bracket to it to support the filter. No matter how tight we clamped it, it would come loose once the car came off the starting line. Bob
BOSS APPROVED!