okay a friend has me paranoid procharger and new cam
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okay a friend has me paranoid procharger and new cam
He says i need to wait 500 miles before i rev over 5 grand on the tach or the engine will be fuked. is this true?? I have gone over 5 grand on the tack but after 3 heat cycles and drove over 20 miles or so. Is he full of it?
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not a new motor. my ls1 has 52000 miles on it. after the 3 heat cycles i put in new oil. drove it 20 or 30 miles and the wanted to see what it would do up to only 5000 rpm or so. i did send the puter to EPP and they retuned it and sent it back before i ever started it. it will be dynotuned on monday. but i would think it would be ok since EPP had all my specs it should be close.(?)
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Even though were pretty straight on with a mail order, nothing is ever perfect for a cookie cutter.
I would treat it as if it was not tuned. Mainly what is done is a part throttle and IFR scale, this is to get you to a dyno to see where you sit. By no means is this a WOT tune. There is tuning required.
I would treat it as if it was not tuned. Mainly what is done is a part throttle and IFR scale, this is to get you to a dyno to see where you sit. By no means is this a WOT tune. There is tuning required.
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Even though were pretty straight on with a mail order, nothing is ever perfect for a cookie cutter.
I would treat it as if it was not tuned. Mainly what is done is a part throttle and IFR scale, this is to get you to a dyno to see where you sit. By no means is this a WOT tune. There is tuning required.
I would treat it as if it was not tuned. Mainly what is done is a part throttle and IFR scale, this is to get you to a dyno to see where you sit. By no means is this a WOT tune. There is tuning required.
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Like Jake said, take it easy untill you get it dyno tuned. Mine seemed to run fine with the mail order tune but the wide open throttle AFR was way off. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't push my luck with the stock shotblock.
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I would take it easy until you dyno it. Do you have a Wideband Gauge? That would allow you to see what is happening when you do decide to rev the engine. As far as heat cycling and not revving the engine, your friend might have been talking about the valve springs as some manufacturers recommend you cycle them to avaid them becoming brittle.
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We've done a lot of mail order tunes, and we tend to make them a little on the rich side. Normally you could stick the computer back in and go wot and never have to worry about it, but it is always a good idea to at least have a wide band to see what the air/fuel ratio is doing at wot in the upper rpm band. Bob
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Thanks Bob--I feel better now. Too bad i have to wait till Monday to get my dynotune. I will let you know the results! I have never had a car with FI , and i am and i am soooooo itching to put the pedal down! LOL! PS Check out my paint job. I got bored and got out some paints! I ll just hijack my own post!
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Thanks Bob--I feel better now. Too bad i have to wait till Monday to get my dynotune. I will let you know the results! I have never had a car with FI , and i am and i am soooooo itching to put the pedal down! LOL! PS Check out my paint job. I got bored and got out some paints! I ll just hijack my own post!
The reason i say get to a dyno, is its not just the AFR, but also the timing. If you have a large amount of carbon on the pistons, or oil in the intake you can see knock or detonation, this isnt picked up by a run of the mill AFR gauge. Too easy to blow a car up with FI to risk waiting.
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Thanks Jake! well, i will be able to brush up on my painting, time and again, LOL. Its not my DD , so my TA will just have to sit till monday until i go get the tune.