Flushing Brake System
10-09-2008, 04:53 PM
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Flushing Brake System I'm planning on installing the Techna-Fit stainless steel brake line kit and ATE Brake fluid from Strano. Just wondering if the 1 liter bottle is enough to get all the old stuff out and if they're any recomendations/links on flushing and bleeding my brake lines properly.
Thanks
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10-09-2008, 05:45 PM
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1 liter should be enough. You'll need 2 people unless you spend the 20 bucks to get speed bleeders. Start at the caliper farthest away from the reservoir ending up at the closest (RR, LR, RF, LF). Keep the reservoir filled during the process.
Two man - Basically it's hook up a tube to the bleeder and submerge the other end in fluid (as to not suck up any air). Loosen the bleeder, slowly squeeze the pedal and hold, tighten the bleeder, slowly release the pedal, repeat until the air is gone or if you're doing a complete flush, keep going until the fluid is clean.
If you have speed bleeders, you can do it by yourself. Just loosen the bleeder, slowly push and hold the pedal, slowly release the pedal, repeat. Tighten the bleeder when complete and move to the next caliper.
Two man - Basically it's hook up a tube to the bleeder and submerge the other end in fluid (as to not suck up any air). Loosen the bleeder, slowly squeeze the pedal and hold, tighten the bleeder, slowly release the pedal, repeat until the air is gone or if you're doing a complete flush, keep going until the fluid is clean.
If you have speed bleeders, you can do it by yourself. Just loosen the bleeder, slowly push and hold the pedal, slowly release the pedal, repeat. Tighten the bleeder when complete and move to the next caliper.
10-09-2008, 05:47 PM
#4
No for sure answer. I normally get into a second bottle because I really bleed the system a lot. Nothing worse than air in the brakes. And I don't personally trust speedbleeders. I've seen them suck air around the threads, and I can't see the fluid coming out when I'm stepping on the pedal to insure I've gotten the air out. That's just me.
I'd recommend pinching off the old rubber line on the wheel you are working on. Then disconnect it from the caliper, and put the Stainless line on. Then disconnect the rubber line from the hard line and hook up the new line.
Doing this will minimize fluid loss. The only reason that's important is simple--If you lose too much and let the master cylinder run dry, you'll need a LOT of brake fluid because you'll get air in everything, including the ABS pump.
When you bleed, do so from the Right rear first, then LR, RF, and finally LF. And always make sure the master is topped up.
I'd recommend pinching off the old rubber line on the wheel you are working on. Then disconnect it from the caliper, and put the Stainless line on. Then disconnect the rubber line from the hard line and hook up the new line.
Doing this will minimize fluid loss. The only reason that's important is simple--If you lose too much and let the master cylinder run dry, you'll need a LOT of brake fluid because you'll get air in everything, including the ABS pump.
When you bleed, do so from the Right rear first, then LR, RF, and finally LF. And always make sure the master is topped up.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
10-09-2008, 09:18 PM
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I recently bled my brake system and it took me 1 3/4 bottles (ATE) start to finish doing it the old fashioned way, piece of clear tubing on the bleeder screw submerged in the brake fluid bottle, Wife operating the peddle and me running around to top the master off....1 1/2 hours of fun that was....and I don't even have the ABS block.
