Working new LS6 intake options
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Working new LS6 intake options
Hey all,
I got some work done on my LS6 intake and figured I’d post some pics. Followed how several others have done theirs and decided on a different sealing method = plastic welding! I got some 2” nylon 66 round stock and it fits perfectly in the hole at the back of the manifold. Not wanting to screw with different vaccum ports, I tap’d the corner of the intake and used a 3/8 brass fitting. The spot works out well cause it’ll be out of the way and have a direct source for the brake booster, but means removing the lifting bracket from the rear head. I also tap’d the front side vaccum port to use for the MAP sensor which will be remote mounted just above it. I tapped the top of the inlet snout for the alki nozzle for use with my turbo setup. I thought both the new ports needed more material to be durable, so the corner piece got 1/4" nylon sheet welded and the alki port got build up before getting drilled and tap'd.
So I read a couple instances of people saying the LS1 throttle body won’t work, but looking over the wiring schematics I can’t see why it wouldn’t. Anyone actually try repining for the LS1 TB ?? I’ve got some pigtails to make an adapter harness, but I’ve also got the truck TB if I can’t get it to work.
I’m waiting to get some dyno time to dial in my turbo tune – the kit comes with a tune but it’s not optimized for 93 octane, so there’s a little left to gain. I want to do that first so I can see what the turbo setup is putting out before I do the LS6 intake swap, then I can tune & dyno again and have a definitive answer on what an LS6 intake is worth to a turbo LS4… any guesses ??
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I cant believe you got the TB to clear those heater lines. Plastic welding is awesome, thats what i did with LS2 intake swap.I welded the whole case around the outside with nylon rod. The only concern with using one though is the motor driving the blade opposite. all of our systems use the blade in the opposite direction so you may have issues and throw the PCM into reduced power mode. IMO a TB swap isnt worth it to keep the same blade diameter , i do know the mouth is bigger on that TB though.. You will need to adjust some tables in the PCM if the TB swap is actually a sucess though, hope you have hp tuners.
As for the dyno, I wouldnt even waste my time we know how garbage the LS4 intake is. might as well rock the Ls6. Are you going to use the LS7 MAF? Id also look into running the 2bar OS from HPtuners, You have alot more things to play with. 180deg fan turn on more fuel and spark options. etc... anyways awesome build cant wait to see it done!
As for the dyno, I wouldnt even waste my time we know how garbage the LS4 intake is. might as well rock the Ls6. Are you going to use the LS7 MAF? Id also look into running the 2bar OS from HPtuners, You have alot more things to play with. 180deg fan turn on more fuel and spark options. etc... anyways awesome build cant wait to see it done!
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Thanx man! I was gonna hit you up for some info on how you did your tune adjustments - I've got HP Tuners, just not very experienced with it. I'll drop you a PM & can email you the tune I have now for the turbo kit.
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So a quick update - I've finally got my ported truck TB. It's a new reman unit that has been bored out to a true 78mm. Here's some pics of it and a stock "78mm" throttle body that is actually about 74mm. It should work nicely with the LS6 intake and my turbo setup. Tuning will be interesting...
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So a quick update - I've finally got my ported truck TB. It's a new reman unit that has been bored out to a true 78mm. Here's some pics of it and a stock "78mm" throttle body that is actually about 74mm. It should work nicely with the LS6 intake and my turbo setup. Tuning will be interesting...
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So a quick update - I've finally got my ported truck TB. It's a new reman unit that has been bored out to a true 78mm. Here's some pics of it and a stock "78mm" throttle body that is actually about 74mm. It should work nicely with the LS6 intake and my turbo setup. Tuning will be interesting...
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yes, it's holding up great on the shelf .... Damn it !!!
Life randomness and then the move, I did not get to do the upgrades to my GXP yet....
That said, hoping that in the coming months I'll have the new shop / house setup and will be back in full swing with my epic LS4 build...
and no, it's not my GXP - how's that for a teaser ?!?!?
To kinda answer Canadian Mike's question - with plastic welding nylon, *if done properly* there should be no issues with durability.
Life randomness and then the move, I did not get to do the upgrades to my GXP yet....
That said, hoping that in the coming months I'll have the new shop / house setup and will be back in full swing with my epic LS4 build...
and no, it's not my GXP - how's that for a teaser ?!?!?
To kinda answer Canadian Mike's question - with plastic welding nylon, *if done properly* there should be no issues with durability.
#12
Thanks buddy; I have done essentially the same thing with the 2`` nylon rod.
I have not test fitted mine yet (I just cut the alternator bracket a couple of days ago).
Is there a possibility or room to mount the map sensor where the rod fills in the hole, or is the PS pump too closeÉ
I have not test fitted mine yet (I just cut the alternator bracket a couple of days ago).
Is there a possibility or room to mount the map sensor where the rod fills in the hole, or is the PS pump too closeÉ
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Thanks buddy; I have done essentially the same thing with the 2`` nylon rod.
I have not test fitted mine yet (I just cut the alternator bracket a couple of days ago).
Is there a possibility or room to mount the map sensor where the rod fills in the hole, or is the PS pump too closeÉ
I have not test fitted mine yet (I just cut the alternator bracket a couple of days ago).
Is there a possibility or room to mount the map sensor where the rod fills in the hole, or is the PS pump too closeÉ
#14