GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Thanks.

I had just placed my order before you replied; seconds really. I included the extra hose just in case.

Also, I plan on running it inline and not standalone.

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

One more thing to mention, when I did this it was still very cool. The weather this last week has been in the high 80's , I have seen a high of 182 degrees on the gauge and it cools down to about 174 or so after i get on the highway and home. Its a good improvement, and I wasn't expecting miracles but I thought it may be lower based on some others findings from the board. I really think stand alone is the way to go in warm weather climates, our winters seem to last longer lately so that wasn't an option and I'm good with that.

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

One thing about the extra hose I received it was bigger outside diameter for some odd reason, inside diameter was the same. The fuel injection clamps I bought wouldn't fit over it. The kit comes with clamps but I have had good luck with those in the past so I used them in the area that was harder to get at. Set it all up on the bench after you figure how you will be installing to save some grief working in a small area. I mounted mine the way I did as I had to finish up quickly after losing so much time dicking with trying to remove the plastic splash shield. Its mounted solid but not how I planned. I really think you would benefit more from a stand alone installation being in Florida, I'm sure the temps I'm seeing now will increase even more once it gets really hot and humid. It's ridiculous we even have to deal with this nonsense to fix GM's screw up.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

You won't have a waterfall effect in a pressure system. It's always filled with fluid. The transaction pump would burp the system anyway .

Having it top to bottom also makes fluid flow more efficient through the cooler so the trans pump works less and has less pressure drop.

living in a place where it hits 120 degrees in the desert and not seeing over 187 degrees yet on my temp gauge means there's some merit to not following oem design

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Standalone would be disconnecting the bottom line and attaching it to the other end of the Hayden cooler?

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Correct. And that bottom line does not look fun to get at either although I really didn't look at it all that much as that was not my plan. I only mentioned this as I would hate to see you go thru all this work twice if the results will not be what you hope for. Everyone's transmissions may be the same, but how they are holding up inside could be different due to abuse or service intervals. Some could have converters that are more worn causing more heat, some could have more clutch wear. I'm just saying what works on mine may not show the same results and visa versa for yours in comparison . I like my car, hate this transmission. Almost wish I didn't have a gauge because now I'm obsessed with monitoring it .

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Standalone involves just cutting the rubber portion of both lines and using a double barbed 3/8th fittings and running your new lines to the hayden or whatever cooler u choose.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

You can get to the bottom lines easily by going through the driverside fenderwell.

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Good to know. Thank you. As 91parkave has also stated the fittings for the stand alone installation will be different then the ones I used. I think these should be the ones for the stand alone, someone who has done it that way hopefully will confirm.
You can not use 2 of the fittings I suggested, I was confusing myself overhinking that install.

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Don't you mean these fittings since the stock ones are threaded?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EP...4YE9RHEJEY0VDX

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

I guess I'm not 100 percent sure, but if installing stand alone and cutting both the factory rubber lines as 91parkave suggested the ones you just posted don't appear correct to me. Don't hit the send button on that Amazon order so quick until we get some more feedback lol. Really not sure why you couldn't just disconnect both lines from the radiator and connect directly to the new cooler with no fittings to buy at all with no cutting at all?

Mike The Canadian

Cooler is well worth it.

The shop ran the lines from the trans to the cooler to the radiator and back to the trans (I personally think cooler only or trans to radiator to cooler ould make more sense).

The cooler has a fan that comes on at 180 F (After the car heat soaks it's on full time in the city).

I also did the dorman pan and a shift kit.

Huge difference in the trans and it doesn't feel "fatigued" after hours of driving and lots of stop and go.

Not to hi-jack, just encouraging everyone!

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Could you post a link to the cooler you used? Have any pictures?

Mike The Canadian

It's a flex-a-lite cooler with a fan, 16k gvwr (smallish side but fan helps)



cooler





cooler from front near fogs





The Super

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Why would you use a Completley undersized cooler to begin with and stick a fan on it? These transmissions are running synthetic fluid they don't need to be at 180 degrees to work properly. Not to mention the electricity draw that creates.

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Anyway I know this video Aint the greatest but hopefully you can grab some visuals.
Grand Prix transmission cooler install:

GXP25

iTrader: (3)

Why cut the pipe when you can use that adapter?

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

no one at the time had it in stock. but since then I've just made new lines as seen here


https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-perfo...ans-lines.html

rottonj

iTrader: (4)

Does that pipe really need to be cut at all? Cant the lines from the new cooler just be clamped to the factory lines removed from the radiator?

91parkave

iTrader: (4)

Maybe if you find a female fitting to barbed you could easily do that instead. all you'd is the thread pitch of the quick connect fitting installed in the Radiator. Then you add a little line and youre golden