adamj1982

Hello all. I've been having this problem on and off for a month.

Before it started getting very cold I took my car and washed it, I did as I normally do and didn't spray under the hood or into the undercarriage or anything like that, . It drove fine after washing and I had it parked for a few hours. I went to leave and it wouldn't turn over. I was in a hurry so I took my other car for the time.

A few hours later I came back and tried it again and it started without a problem, but It showing a code 16. I disconnected the battery and used connection cleaner on the wires going to the opti. Plugged everything back in and it seemed to drive fine. A few days later it started almost sputtering and died quickly. I tried to start it and it wouldn't turn over, so, being stopped in a bad location, I disconnected the battery, reconnected, and it started and I was able to make it home.

I take it out for short drives and it does fine, but yesterday the gauges started acting goofy and it died, only this time I turned the key and it started right up, although code 16 is back.

Does this have to be the opti (or wiring to it) or could it be something else?
I have time and money to change the opti now, but don't want to do it if it could be the ICM or something.

Thanks

*on a funny note, at the sheriff's office I work at a "code 16" is a DOA

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

well what is a code 16..........there has to be another 2 digits either before the 16 or after the 16.....is ur scanner jacked up..

adamj1982

Sorry about that, I should have elaborated more. The car is a 93 Formula A4.

The code is a 16..."Distributor ignition system (low resolution pulse) "

shbox

No it doesn't. 16 is correct if it's OBD-I.

It's the opti or electrical connection to it. Try wiggling your harness when it is running.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Try an opti harness, I think its $30 from Summit, if that doesn't cure the problem, then it's your opti. You can get one for ~$255 plus shipping from "thepartsladi" on Ebay. They have the best prices around for genuine AC Delco or Delphi opti's.

adamj1982

Is there a trick to getting to the electrical harness on the opti? I haven't tried real hard yet, but it looks to me like the clip for the harness is behind the waterpump.

The opti is vented also, so either someone converted it or it's a different engine than original

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Most likely the cap was changed to vented cap. But the code you are getting is for the optical side, not the high voltage side. The opti harness is a little difficult to get to, you'll have to try and get something down there to unclip the pig tail. I can't remember what I did when I replaced my opti harness.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

sorry your right but he did not post the year of his till after i posted this.....

shbox

I just assumed he was talking OBD-I, rather than his scanner was "jacked up". Of course, my pet peeve is when people don't post any info about what they are working on.

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

I recently had the same problem...except I was getting code 16 and 36. Which now I know means the opti is shot and the way the car runs reflects that.

For the simple reason of having an opti...I would never use a power washer under the hood. Grab some shop rags and simple green...works well for me just a little more time consuming.

This will be my 3rd opti...its being replaced with a dynaspark so hopefully its the last.

adamj1982

So since my opti is converted, when I go to by a replacement do I just buy a vented opti? or one for a 93?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

No, you will still have to buy a '93. When you do the vented conversion, only the cap is changed, not the base, so you still retain the splined drive mechanism. The '95-'97 opti base will never fit on your car.