Cam only rebuild
#1
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Cam only rebuild
I spun a bearing, so my friend and I are going to do a rebuild. The main point is to get my car into DD shape, while squeezing some power out of it with a cc503 cam. Besides the cam, I would like everything to be as stock as possible. Being that I'm a poor college student, I want to try and write out all the parts and get a rough estimate of what this will cost me. So far I know we'll need valve springs, bearings, piston rings, seals, possibly an oil pump, and possibly a crank shaft. Is there anything I'm missing? Also any tips and suggestions are completely welcome!
#2
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I spun a bearing, so my friend and I are going to do a rebuild. The main point is to get my car into DD shape, while squeezing some power out of it with a cc503 cam. Besides the cam, I would like everything to be as stock as possible. Being that I'm a poor college student, I want to try and write out all the parts and get a rough estimate of what this will cost me. So far I know we'll need valve springs, bearings, piston rings, seals, possibly an oil pump, and possibly a crank shaft. Is there anything I'm missing? Also any tips and suggestions are completely welcome!
#3
with the cc503 u cant really keep everything stock, this cam is quite big enough for the stock heads,..that u will require LT's, high stall TC, and at least a 52mm TB,, or may be a tune if u can still afford it.
IMO the best cam for ur application is the GM hot cam kit
IMO the best cam for ur application is the GM hot cam kit
#4
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with the cc503 u cant really keep everything stock, this cam is quite big enough for the stock heads,..that u will require LT's, high stall TC, and at least a 52mm TB,, or may be a tune if u can still afford it.
IMO the best cam for ur application is the GM hot cam kit
IMO the best cam for ur application is the GM hot cam kit
Tune is a must as well.
Hot cam would be inferior to the CC503.
#6
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GM is selling entire new long blocks for $1700, and there is another vendor around here selling new short blocks for $1k. For wanting a stock rebuild, that's a steal.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652864
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652864
#7
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I am finishing my rebuild after a rod knock. I bought a used engine tore it down and rebuilt it. this all started in May. If i had to do it again I would get the $1000 shortblock. I put the crane 10308 spring kit, vig3500 stall, ls7 lifters, and lt headers. I spent over $1000 dollars on bearings, block, cam bearings, main bearings, etc for a stock rebuild.
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#8
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GM is selling entire new long blocks for $1700, and there is another vendor around here selling new short blocks for $1k. For wanting a stock rebuild, that's a steal.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652864
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652864
That leaves you with a budget requirement of ~$3600 for a brand spankin new cam-only LT1. You could save ~$500 by buying used valvetrain and bolt-on parts. You can also try to pick up a used short block for under a grand, saveing you at least $700. That give you a min budget requirement of ~$2400. If you don't have that, just buy a used shortblock, swap it in and call it a day.
Just trying to give you a heads up on actually costs...it always is more than you originally thought.
#9
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on my cc503 swap here's what I spent
Crane 10308 spring kit $180~ NEW
Comp Hardened Pushrods $35~ NEW
Comp Magnum 1.6 Rockers $170~ NEW
Comp CC503 $130 USED
then of course, misc gaskets, valve stem seals, etc
also if you decide to replace your lifters you can get a full set of new LS7's for like $120
Crane 10308 spring kit $180~ NEW
Comp Hardened Pushrods $35~ NEW
Comp Magnum 1.6 Rockers $170~ NEW
Comp CC503 $130 USED
then of course, misc gaskets, valve stem seals, etc
also if you decide to replace your lifters you can get a full set of new LS7's for like $120
#10
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on my cc503 swap here's what I spent
Crane 10308 spring kit $180~ NEW
Comp Hardened Pushrods $35~ NEW
Comp Magnum 1.6 Rockers $170~ NEW
Comp CC503 $130 USED
then of course, misc gaskets, valve stem seals, etc
also if you decide to replace your lifters you can get a full set of new LS7's for like $120
Crane 10308 spring kit $180~ NEW
Comp Hardened Pushrods $35~ NEW
Comp Magnum 1.6 Rockers $170~ NEW
Comp CC503 $130 USED
then of course, misc gaskets, valve stem seals, etc
also if you decide to replace your lifters you can get a full set of new LS7's for like $120
I have TF Chromemoly pr's $86 NEW
Comp ProMagnum 1.6 Rockers $290 NEW (much better than Magnum rockers)
CC503, I think it was a little under $300 NEW.
ARP head studs $40 NEW
TF guideplates $16 NEW
Summit usually has some of the best deals out there. Keep your eyes pealed for deals on used, low mileage parts, sometimes there are killer offers out there.
#11
Just don't forget all the little stuff like fluids, seals, etc. That stuff can add up quick if you forget about it.
As for the Hotcam not being worth the install labor, that's definitely debatable. It all depends on budget and what the individual goals are. In this case I'd say that the cc503 is best as long as car has headers, etc, already, or the OP has the money to install them.
As for the Hotcam not being worth the install labor, that's definitely debatable. It all depends on budget and what the individual goals are. In this case I'd say that the cc503 is best as long as car has headers, etc, already, or the OP has the money to install them.
#12
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I have the same springs, got them for the same price. $180 NEW (if you get Comp 918's or PAC 1218's, expect to pay a bit more)
I have TF Chromemoly pr's $86 NEW
Comp ProMagnum 1.6 Rockers $290 NEW (much better than Magnum rockers)
CC503, I think it was a little under $300 NEW.
ARP head studs $40 NEW
TF guideplates $16 NEW
Summit usually has some of the best deals out there. Keep your eyes pealed for deals on used, low mileage parts, sometimes there are killer offers out there.
I have TF Chromemoly pr's $86 NEW
Comp ProMagnum 1.6 Rockers $290 NEW (much better than Magnum rockers)
CC503, I think it was a little under $300 NEW.
ARP head studs $40 NEW
TF guideplates $16 NEW
Summit usually has some of the best deals out there. Keep your eyes pealed for deals on used, low mileage parts, sometimes there are killer offers out there.
and chromemoly pushrods are overkill imo for a mild lift cam
NSA rockers and guideplates are unneccasary for a cc503, SA stuff is more than suitable. though NSA stuff will allow room for growth in the future
#13
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Nothing wrong with using the best components possible for a CC503. And like you said, it has room for growth...I don't plan on rocking the CC503 with stock heads forever.
#14
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many people have done dyno's between roller tip and full roller rockers and shown no difference in power. full roller don't make a car rev up any quicker or smoother that a person will notice whatsoever
Nothing wrong with using the best components possible for a CC503. And like you said, it has room for growth...I don't plan on rocking the CC503 with stock heads forever.
#15
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After adjusting Comp Promags more than 10 times, I never want to adjust non full roller rockers ever again.
My buddy's got Comp Magnum rockers and I've got Comp ProMagnum rockers, I can tell the difference right away.
#16
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If you look in the forsale section theres alomost everthing you need to do the cam swap used the cc503 cam some rockerarms and other stuff! Also the $1000 bucks for the stock shortblock is a good deal when you figure in all the parts and machine work! If you decide to go that route they may have one that is already bored 30 over so you could get a 355 just ask them before you order.
#17
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Finding zero lash is almost the entire adjustment process... Turning the policy lock until it seats (without ever having to touch the pushrod) and then adding the preload and seating the set screw is wayyy easier than slowly tightening the roller tip rocks while spinning the push rod in your fingers, all why being extra careful not to twist the rocker to the side at all for fear of a false zero lash feeling in the push rod. Even when adjusting with the engine on method. With the full roller rockers, it's the same, spin the poly lock until it stops. No need to back it off and listen for clanking, tightening until it stops.
After adjusting Comp Promags more than 10 times, I never want to adjust non full roller rockers ever again.
After adjusting Comp Promags more than 10 times, I never want to adjust non full roller rockers ever again.
My buddy's got Comp Magnum rockers and I've got Comp ProMagnum rockers, I can tell the difference right away.
how so? does the car have the same cam? same tune? same tuner? same gears? same mileage? same convertor? same transmission? same springs?
unless all the answers to that question are yes and then some then it's hardly a compelling arguement. my friend has a cammed lt1 with crane gold full rollers and it feels no different rev wise than mine
there's so many more factors than just one has roller tip and the other is full roller
my car made 325rwhp with midlength headers, stalled unlocked auto, and 130k+ miles with NON-full roller rockers, sounds pretty spot on for a cammed LT1 so doubt there's much if any at all power I'm leaving on the table
#18
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Full roller rockers have been shown to reduce oil temperatures by up to 10 degrees, not to mention decreased oil foaming. The reduced energy needed to move the rocker will free up a negligible amount of horsepower. Most aftermarket full-bodied roller rockers are MUCH stronger than stamped rockers, and thus provide greater reliability.
I doubt that it's something you could actually "feel" just by driving. It is probably more of a psychological effect - driving a car you KNOW is equipped with full roller rockers.
I doubt that it's something you could actually "feel" just by driving. It is probably more of a psychological effect - driving a car you KNOW is equipped with full roller rockers.
#19
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I've seen alot more aluminum body rockers snap (common full roller construction) than stamped rockers
350's with stock stamped rockers have cleared the 200k+ mile goal for years, so I doubt it will make or break an engine, though there are benefits to full roller (especially higher hp wouldn't recommend otherwise). full roller is obviously the better choice but to say that the other is not worth the time nor money in a mild cam/bolt-on car is incorrect imo
350's with stock stamped rockers have cleared the 200k+ mile goal for years, so I doubt it will make or break an engine, though there are benefits to full roller (especially higher hp wouldn't recommend otherwise). full roller is obviously the better choice but to say that the other is not worth the time nor money in a mild cam/bolt-on car is incorrect imo