ps side valve cover removal
02-11-2009, 08:16 PM
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ps side valve cover removal 3 weeks of having an lt1 car...97 z and was looking to take off the valve covers. Any tricks in getting the pass side one off without taking off the alternator? 
02-11-2009, 08:22 PM
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Why are you taking it off anyways?
02-11-2009, 08:34 PM
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i went from 3rd to 2nd trying to hit 4th
some guys said they bent pushrods, broke rockers, just want to check it out, and the passengers side looked easier to check first.
02-11-2009, 08:59 PM
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the bent pushrod sounds like a tic not a rattle.....and it cutting out above 5200 would be more into the opti.........did these problems just happen after you miss shifted?
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02-11-2009, 09:00 PM
#8
I rebuilt a motor recently for a guy that missed a shift. His was pretty bad. See this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ldnt-look.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ldnt-look.html
02-11-2009, 09:08 PM
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makes sense, the noise goes away after it starts, and every once an a while theres a noise while its idling, but if i give it throttle by hand it goes away past probably 1500. I don't think i turned it that high before i missed. So it was probably there before... how do i go about finding whether its in the opti?
02-11-2009, 09:15 PM
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I rebuilt a motor recently for a guy that missed a shift. His was pretty bad. See this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ldnt-look.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ldnt-look.html
02-12-2009, 07:00 AM
#11
I rebuilt a motor recently for a guy that missed a shift. His was pretty bad. See this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ldnt-look.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ldnt-look.html
02-12-2009, 08:28 AM
#12
Yeah he was back up and running in early December. His motor was junk. It had been over heated before so bad that the cylinder heads were junk. They had several cracks, the valve guides had lost their press fit, etc. Had to find him another set of heads to have rebuilt for his motor.
The cylinder bores were worn and the block had to be bored .020". The crank needed turned. The rods were junk, they needed resized so we just put a set of Scat rods with ARP cap screws in it. Had to find a good cam because his had some scuffed lobes and the bearing journals were not so great. It was pretty bad. It was just a stock rebuild to get him back on the road. A quality job though.
The cylinder bores were worn and the block had to be bored .020". The crank needed turned. The rods were junk, they needed resized so we just put a set of Scat rods with ARP cap screws in it. Had to find a good cam because his had some scuffed lobes and the bearing journals were not so great. It was pretty bad. It was just a stock rebuild to get him back on the road. A quality job though.
02-12-2009, 12:35 PM
#13
Yeah he was back up and running in early December. His motor was junk. It had been over heated before so bad that the cylinder heads were junk. They had several cracks, the valve guides had lost their press fit, etc. Had to find him another set of heads to have rebuilt for his motor.
The cylinder bores were worn and the block had to be bored .020". The crank needed turned. The rods were junk, they needed resized so we just put a set of Scat rods with ARP cap screws in it. Had to find a good cam because his had some scuffed lobes and the bearing journals were not so great. It was pretty bad. It was just a stock rebuild to get him back on the road. A quality job though.
The cylinder bores were worn and the block had to be bored .020". The crank needed turned. The rods were junk, they needed resized so we just put a set of Scat rods with ARP cap screws in it. Had to find a good cam because his had some scuffed lobes and the bearing journals were not so great. It was pretty bad. It was just a stock rebuild to get him back on the road. A quality job though.
I guess so!!
