Best LT1 Cam?
02-22-2017, 04:34 PM
#21
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04-12-2020, 07:45 PM
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04-13-2020, 04:21 PM
#27
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You're responding to a post made 11 years ago.
CC= Comp Cams. You need to be specific with what year LT1 you have since there is a difference.
TF= Trick Flow. Stock PR length is 7.2 I believe. If you haven't done any crazy milling to the heads or decking of the block these will work just fine. You don't have to weld the guide plates. Just align them as good as possible and torque the studs down.
ARP is ARP. The studs you need are just small block chevy screw in studs.
If your lifters are original you may want to replace those as well. Morels seem to be good. I had a bad experience with LS7 lifters. Started flaking after about 3K miles.
You're looking at about $1000.00 to do this yourself. You will also need a tune.
CC= Comp Cams. You need to be specific with what year LT1 you have since there is a difference.
TF= Trick Flow. Stock PR length is 7.2 I believe. If you haven't done any crazy milling to the heads or decking of the block these will work just fine. You don't have to weld the guide plates. Just align them as good as possible and torque the studs down.
ARP is ARP. The studs you need are just small block chevy screw in studs.
If your lifters are original you may want to replace those as well. Morels seem to be good. I had a bad experience with LS7 lifters. Started flaking after about 3K miles.
You're looking at about $1000.00 to do this yourself. You will also need a tune.
04-13-2020, 05:08 PM
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You're responding to a post made 11 years ago.
CC= Comp Cams. You need to be specific with what year LT1 you have since there is a difference.
TF= Trick Flow. Stock PR length is 7.2 I believe. If you haven't done any crazy milling to the heads or decking of the block these will work just fine. You don't have to weld the guide plates. Just align them as good as possible and torque the studs down.
ARP is ARP. The studs you need are just small block chevy screw in studs.
If your lifters are original you may want to replace those as well. Morels seem to be good. I had a bad experience with LS7 lifters. Started flaking after about 3K miles.
You're looking at about $1000.00 to do this yourself. You will also need a tune.
CC= Comp Cams. You need to be specific with what year LT1 you have since there is a difference.
TF= Trick Flow. Stock PR length is 7.2 I believe. If you haven't done any crazy milling to the heads or decking of the block these will work just fine. You don't have to weld the guide plates. Just align them as good as possible and torque the studs down.
ARP is ARP. The studs you need are just small block chevy screw in studs.
If your lifters are original you may want to replace those as well. Morels seem to be good. I had a bad experience with LS7 lifters. Started flaking after about 3K miles.
You're looking at about $1000.00 to do this yourself. You will also need a tune.
04-13-2020, 09:27 PM
#30
TECH Resident
Third time is the charm...been trying to get rid of stuff not directly related to my cam swap in the file....but here is a running total of what it cost, with part numbers me for my "cam" swap. That does not count the Opti I bought to go on it either. Cost can add up quick if you have a 100K mile engine. $5K rough total.....with $1.5K being the Kooks headers and y pipe.
For sure some stuff can be cut out of what I spent as there is some future proofing and maintenance going on with what I did.
Keep in mind I have a '96 so not all parts will work for 93 or 94-95. A '97 should work for most of my part numbers. The Kooks I got also have emissions on them....so do your homework....but it can give an idea of the cost of things.
For sure some stuff can be cut out of what I spent as there is some future proofing and maintenance going on with what I did.
Keep in mind I have a '96 so not all parts will work for 93 or 94-95. A '97 should work for most of my part numbers. The Kooks I got also have emissions on them....so do your homework....but it can give an idea of the cost of things.
04-13-2020, 10:36 PM
#31
Village Troll
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I have no idea if they are any better. I have not checked them after driving on them last summer. You could probably do a search and find the part number. It might be for these:
https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/7b0...fg5_620406.pdf
I mean, in looking at them compared to the LS7 and to the Lunati they look exactly the same. Old salty engine builder once told me a lot of rockers/lifters and such are built by maybe 3 different manufacturers.
04-14-2020, 06:15 AM
#32
^^
Those Morel 5315s drop-ins are the right ones. I ran them in my LS6 and they will drop right into an LT1. Word on the street is they are exactly the same as the Lunati street drop-ins but I have not verified.
Better yet would be the Johnson 2110 drop ins. More $$$ though.
I remember the cup height of the Morels being different than my stock lifters. I forget where the LS7 lifters fall in comparison so pushrod length may need to be changed.
Those Morel 5315s drop-ins are the right ones. I ran them in my LS6 and they will drop right into an LT1. Word on the street is they are exactly the same as the Lunati street drop-ins but I have not verified.
Better yet would be the Johnson 2110 drop ins. More $$$ though.
I remember the cup height of the Morels being different than my stock lifters. I forget where the LS7 lifters fall in comparison so pushrod length may need to be changed.
Last edited by StealthFormula; 04-14-2020 at 06:20 AM.
04-15-2020, 09:12 AM
#34
Well I'll be dipped! I didn't get Morels. I got Lunatis: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-72910-16
I have no idea if they are any better. I have not checked them after driving on them last summer. You could probably do a search and find the part number. It might be for these:
https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/7b0...fg5_620406.pdf
I mean, in looking at them compared to the LS7 and to the Lunati they look exactly the same. Old salty engine builder once told me a lot of rockers/lifters and such are built by maybe 3 different manufacturers.
I have no idea if they are any better. I have not checked them after driving on them last summer. You could probably do a search and find the part number. It might be for these:
https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/7b0...fg5_620406.pdf
I mean, in looking at them compared to the LS7 and to the Lunati they look exactly the same. Old salty engine builder once told me a lot of rockers/lifters and such are built by maybe 3 different manufacturers.
Edit SSR, I Know this to be true with the link bar lifters, stock types might be different so my apologies but I still wouldn't be at all surprised if they're still the same.
