Need help with finding the right ATI balancer
#1
Need help with finding the right ATI balancer
I was going to run the Jegs balancer and hub but since I haven't gone cheap with anything else in my build I decided to run an ATI balancer. I just don't know which one will work with my 94 TA. I was looking on summit but I don't know which one or what size I need. Also do some of them come with a hub? Thanks in advance for the help guys and let me know. A part number would be great too.
Zach
Zach
#2
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I just got mine from Summit, just go to the ATI web site and match the part number to what you need/want. One of the balancers is standard size, the other is for an under drive. I went with the ATI 917268.
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ts/damserp.htm
http://www.atiracing.com/products/da...ts/damserp.htm
#4
I talked to John Lane over at ATI and we decided on PN 917271
It's aluminum and 10% underdrive. Lighter+smaller = less HP loss F.T.W!
The steel 7.5" is the same size as the stock pulley if that is what you want.
It's aluminum and 10% underdrive. Lighter+smaller = less HP loss F.T.W!
The steel 7.5" is the same size as the stock pulley if that is what you want.
#5
If I got the smaller one though would that effect neccesary belt length? Or would the tensioner pull tight to use the stock length belt? Thanks both you guys for helping a fellow LTx member out. That's about the last little bit I need to really get going on my build.
#6
It should have shipped yesterday, so I should have a part number for you soon.
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-14-2009 at 09:57 PM.
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#11
LT1 Fbody Steel 917270 (Stock diameter, 9.75lbs)
LT1 Fbody Alum 917268 (Stock diameter, 6.75lbs)
LT1 Fbody Alum 917271 (10% underdrive, 4.5lbs)
PNs are for Hub+Balancer
All hubs have 3/16 key @ std SB 10° location
Exceeds SFI 18.1 specs
#12
Just ordered ATI-917271. What belt do I need to use guys? Oh and what kind of HP gain do you think I'd see over a stock balancer on a car making in the 425 rwhp area(at least that's what I'm hoping for)? Just curious as to what I may see. I know it probably won't be much but jw.
#13
I installed it last weekend, just now getting around to following up on the week's threads. (sorry)
The stock belt I was running was 1637mm and was a little loose.
I tried a 1608mm, but it was too short.
I then picked up a 1620mm and it was tight, but fit. You might want to go a little longer.
The hub goes on first, uses the stock bolt + a big washer (looks like a typical SBC crank hub washer)
I suppose you could go find a slightly longer bolt with the same thread if you wanted to
to compensate for the washer thickness if you really wanted to.
I installed it with locktite to make sure it stays put. Depending on your crank hub install
tool design, you may need a few large washers to pad the thrust bearing since the
ATI hub has such a deep cavity. The hub looks funny VS the stocker, it doesn't feel
like it's seated properly until you bolt up the pulley and see how it's offset. Then it all
makes sense. Be sure to torque the pulley on properly.
Everything went together without much effort at all. Just the lube already present on the crank snout.
Feels much smoother than my beat up FluidAmpr did.
When I contacted FluidAmpr for advice, they had nothing to offer other than to confirm
that it's probably a $400 paperweight now (Thanks guys)
The stock belt I was running was 1637mm and was a little loose.
I tried a 1608mm, but it was too short.
I then picked up a 1620mm and it was tight, but fit. You might want to go a little longer.
The hub goes on first, uses the stock bolt + a big washer (looks like a typical SBC crank hub washer)
I suppose you could go find a slightly longer bolt with the same thread if you wanted to
to compensate for the washer thickness if you really wanted to.
I installed it with locktite to make sure it stays put. Depending on your crank hub install
tool design, you may need a few large washers to pad the thrust bearing since the
ATI hub has such a deep cavity. The hub looks funny VS the stocker, it doesn't feel
like it's seated properly until you bolt up the pulley and see how it's offset. Then it all
makes sense. Be sure to torque the pulley on properly.
Everything went together without much effort at all. Just the lube already present on the crank snout.
Feels much smoother than my beat up FluidAmpr did.
When I contacted FluidAmpr for advice, they had nothing to offer other than to confirm
that it's probably a $400 paperweight now (Thanks guys)
Last edited by James Montigny; 03-23-2009 at 04:55 PM.
#14
I installed mine this weekend as well. I put an ARP hub bolt in. Everything went in with no problems. The belt I bought is a 63.5 inch belt...is that going to be ok? You mentioned the different length belts but I'm still not exactly sure what to get and I didn't know they measured some in MM.
#15
I installed mine this weekend as well. I put an ARP hub bolt in. Everything went in with no problems. The belt I bought is a 63.5 inch belt...is that going to be ok? You mentioned the different length belts but I'm still not exactly sure what to get and I didn't know they measured some in MM.
1in = 25.4mm
http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm
Yours is about 1612mm, which I think is going to be a little tight to get over
the rest of your pullies. A 64" belt should fit much better.
#19
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What size of belt did you come up with, that fit nice an tight? Do you still have any of the emissions, A/C, P/S?
Have you driven the car on the street with that Monoblade TB before? How do you like it?
Have you driven the car on the street with that Monoblade TB before? How do you like it?