Exhaust weight question
#1
Exhaust weight question
What weighs more, a dual setup with bullets and a hpipe, dumped, or a 4" catback with a single in dual out muffler? What kind of weight difference am I looking at? I'm tired of scraping my duals, I even have to worry about some dips in the road if I'm going fast enough. Looking at going to 4", if its going to add a lot of weight to go out back I do have a 4" bullet here and might just go 4" dumped.
#2
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What weighs more, a dual setup with bullets and a hpipe, dumped, or a 4" catback with a single in dual out muffler? What kind of weight difference am I looking at? I'm tired of scraping my duals, I even have to worry about some dips in the road if I'm going fast enough. Looking at going to 4", if its going to add a lot of weight to go out back I do have a 4" bullet here and might just go 4" dumped.
#3
I have slp subframe connectors and the spohn body mounted torque arm. I should gain clearance as I will run the piping through that torque arm mount dip, instead of the duals I have with a Hpipe, that I had to run under the subframe tubing that goes to the center of the car. I'll go snap some quick pictures.
#5
As you can see my exhaust setup is semi-ghetto and ground clearance is a joke. Yeah I can barely get three fingers between it and the ground.
Insaneauto86, do you have a aftermarket torque arm and subframe connectors by any chance?
The way I'm looking at is I can spend a ton of money to run duals the nice way, or I can spend less than that to run either a dumped 4" setup or run it out back and retain some semblance of sanity in the car.
#6
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As you can see my exhaust setup is semi-ghetto and ground clearance is a joke. Yeah I can barely get three fingers between it and the ground.
Insaneauto86, do you have a aftermarket torque arm and subframe connectors by any chance?
The way I'm looking at is I can spend a ton of money to run duals the nice way, or I can spend less than that to run either a dumped 4" setup or run it out back and retain some semblance of sanity in the car.
You will gain a good amount of clearance by going with a single exhaust. I don't see you choking any power going with a single 3" exhaust, as long as you have good bends, with a quality merge. Then you can add a cutout before the axle and have the best of both worlds.
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#8
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Do something like this...
QUOTE=Patrick G
Exhaust selection:
To make big power with a street motor, you need an exhaust that sucks...literally (David Vizard quote). When running a cam with lots of overlap, backpressure is not your friend. But when building a daily driven street car, too free flowing of an exhaust often means too loud. Not in my case.
You want the best headers you can find. For an LS1 F-body, it would be QTPs or Kooks in 1 3/4" size. For a Vette, the LG Pro Long tubes reign supreme. A high velocity merge collector on the header collector is typically worth some nice gains in the mid-range and is known to squeak out a few extra ponies up high as well.
Merging the twin pipes coming off the headers is a critical item for power and sound quality. Vettes have it easy because an x-pipe easily fits and the sound quality is awesome. F-bodies are handicapped because of space constraints. For 500 rwhp, you want to run dual 3" pipes after the headers and you'll want them to merge into a 4" intermediate pipe. Anything smaller will run the risk of flow loss. Most y-pipes on the market slam the 2 pipes together like this:
When the pipes meet at close to a 90 angle, the flow is going to be lower and the sound is going to rasp and drone at 2000-2300 rpm. By using a Flowmaster merge collector or better, your sound quality will improve since the gasses meet side by side as opposed to ramming into each other. Here are a few pics of my exhaust.
Notice the dual 3" pipes merging into a 4" intermediate pipe, then a 4" cutout. After the cutout, the pipe is reduced to a 3" SLP dual dual catback. Compared to open headers with 20" extensions, my motor lost 1 hp with this y-pipe, but gained 10 rwtq in the 2500-4000 rpm range. From a sound standpoint, the rasp/drone is gone with the better y-merge collector. The difference between running with an open cutout and closed exhaust through the tail pipes is 9.5 rwhp. Not bad at all.
Exhaust selection:
To make big power with a street motor, you need an exhaust that sucks...literally (David Vizard quote). When running a cam with lots of overlap, backpressure is not your friend. But when building a daily driven street car, too free flowing of an exhaust often means too loud. Not in my case.
You want the best headers you can find. For an LS1 F-body, it would be QTPs or Kooks in 1 3/4" size. For a Vette, the LG Pro Long tubes reign supreme. A high velocity merge collector on the header collector is typically worth some nice gains in the mid-range and is known to squeak out a few extra ponies up high as well.
Merging the twin pipes coming off the headers is a critical item for power and sound quality. Vettes have it easy because an x-pipe easily fits and the sound quality is awesome. F-bodies are handicapped because of space constraints. For 500 rwhp, you want to run dual 3" pipes after the headers and you'll want them to merge into a 4" intermediate pipe. Anything smaller will run the risk of flow loss. Most y-pipes on the market slam the 2 pipes together like this:
When the pipes meet at close to a 90 angle, the flow is going to be lower and the sound is going to rasp and drone at 2000-2300 rpm. By using a Flowmaster merge collector or better, your sound quality will improve since the gasses meet side by side as opposed to ramming into each other. Here are a few pics of my exhaust.
Notice the dual 3" pipes merging into a 4" intermediate pipe, then a 4" cutout. After the cutout, the pipe is reduced to a 3" SLP dual dual catback. Compared to open headers with 20" extensions, my motor lost 1 hp with this y-pipe, but gained 10 rwtq in the 2500-4000 rpm range. From a sound standpoint, the rasp/drone is gone with the better y-merge collector. The difference between running with an open cutout and closed exhaust through the tail pipes is 9.5 rwhp. Not bad at all.
#9
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Yeah, that ground clearance is wack! I have just about the same ground clearance, but my car is SLAMMED...
You will gain a good amount of clearance by going with a single exhaust. I don't see you choking any power going with a single 3" exhaust, as long as you have good bends, with a quality merge. Then you can add a cutout before the axle and have the best of both worlds.
You will gain a good amount of clearance by going with a single exhaust. I don't see you choking any power going with a single 3" exhaust, as long as you have good bends, with a quality merge. Then you can add a cutout before the axle and have the best of both worlds.
As far as size dude just go 3 inch with a nice flowmaster merge and a cut-out, should do just fine. Isnt that the setup that Pat G was running on his 500 rwhp TA?
#10
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I agree with this guy here. I will say that my dumped H pipe is signifigantly lighter than my old SS magnaflow catback.
As far as size dude just go 3 inch with a nice flowmaster merge and a cut-out, should do just fine. Isnt that the setup that Pat G was running on his 500 rwhp TA?
As far as size dude just go 3 inch with a nice flowmaster merge and a cut-out, should do just fine. Isnt that the setup that Pat G was running on his 500 rwhp TA?
#15
Is a lot of that weight in a crossflow muffler though? I guess if I want to stay low on the weight but gain clearance I will have to just dump the bullet.
Any ideas though on if or how much louder a dumped 4" bullet is compared to two 2.5" dumped bullets?
Any ideas though on if or how much louder a dumped 4" bullet is compared to two 2.5" dumped bullets?
#18
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its actually quiet enough that i'm having an x-pipe made soon and running 2 2.5" bullets, but they will get run out the back through a CME