gixxsta04

Just blew a head gasket on a 93 corvette. What all do I have to remove from the engine to get the head off? What gaskets am I going to need? Its the passenger side.

dkishton1486

well your going to do both head gaskets

dkishton1486

id say...an ege valve pipe gasket,head gaskets,intake gaskets, bolts,throttle body gasket,sealant for starters

gixxsta04

Im only changing the passenger side

dkishton1486

Why? That would be a stupid mistake on your end.. When 1 goes the other will follow shortly. Just do them both it will save you money in the long run

DisturbedTA

iTrader: (3)

2nd that

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

plus you want to remove both of them because of the steam lines. You can not get in there to remove them off the back of the heads. If you pull one out and then try to disconnect it you will bend your steam line. Also if you try to get a wrench in there to remove the bolt YOU WILL strip the head due to lack of room.....ask me how i know you are already going to have to replace the one steam line gasket and they come in a set.
Plus when you buy new head bolts...and you will have to because if you reuse the factory ones you run the risk of them snapping, they come with the bolts for both heads.

Just take everyone else advice and replace both of them. We know these things due to error that we have done ourselves or from others mistakes. It will be assurance to replace the other one anyways.

gixxsta04

Well what all needs to come off? Can i leave the waterpump on? How hard is it to get to the rear head bolts?

dkishton1486

w/p can stay on.... Its hard to rememebr off the top of my head but mostly the whole top end must come off.. Intake and all... Just use a breaker bar to break the bolts loose.. DO NOT and I repeat DO NOT use an impact gun on head bolts.. ALWAYS use hand tools

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

The rear head bolts are not that difficult to remove. Especially since it is in a vette. You should be able to leave the WP on, but it will get in the way since the intake is right there. I would recommend draining the engine through the drain on the engine itself after you have drained the radiator itself. This will keep the water from pouring everywhere when you take the head bolts out.

But drain coolant, remove belt, remove Acc. bracket(makes things a little easier) remove WP (recommended), remove intake, remove valve covers, remove heads.

I might have missed a thing or two

gixxsta04

whats up with this steam line?

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

it is connected to the back of both of your heads and connects back into the radiator for the steam to recondensate. Just the water has turned into steam and is sent out of the back of your heads to the radiator.

fuzzyjk

iTrader: (4)

You will also want to mill both heads and get NEW head bolts. Ecklers.com (did I spell that right?) has the least expensive kit at around 150.00 it includes every gasket you should need.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

If the head is in good condition you do not have to. Or at least i have been told you dont. Mine look fine and when i pulled them off they have 180xxx miles on them.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Do not be the judge on whether or not to leave the heads untouched because you think they look fine. Let a machine shop check them.

DisturbedTA

iTrader: (3)

exaust manifolds lol

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

^^^ that too. But i figured that was a given. Maybe not though. If you have never removed them put some PB blaster on the bolts and let them soak for a little bit. If not you run the chance on breaking these as well.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Fortunately the factory used generous amounts of anti-seize.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

I wish they would have on mine. When i went to remove the the bolts from the manifold to the y-pipe my bolts were completely rusted solid.

DisturbedTA

iTrader: (3)

thats time for a saws all and Lts