Info for price expectation when building a motor...
#1
Info for price expectation when building a motor...
Not sure if this thread will be huge help, start a fight, or be completely overlooked. Anyway I just bought a new car and was looking through the receipts for the build to make sure the car was what I was told it was, and it turns out I got a hell of a deal. Anyway I know what it is like trying to figure how much you will spend to build a motor and thought that I would post up a price list of all the stuff that is needed, and then mention where some money can be saved.
Valvetrain
Cam- $300.00
Valve springs- $75.00
Retainers and locks (for springs)- $100.00
Pushrods- $40.00
Hydraulic roller Lifters- $200.00
Roller rocker- $300.00
Cylinder Heads and Intake
CNC porting (heads) $1200.00
CNC porting (intake) $300.00
Shave heads- $150.00
Head Studs- $150.00
Block work and Rotating Assembly
Rotating Assembly- $1700.00
Full Gasket set (cometic head gaskets)- $400.00
Harmonic Balancer- $200.00
Oil Pump- $50.00
Oil Pan- $300.00
Cam Bearing- $20.00
Freeze Plugs- $20.00
Bore Block- $100.00
Clean Block- $25.00
Notch Block- $100.00
Deck Block- $120.00
Balance Assembly- $150.00
Notch Rods- $45.00
Fuel system
Walbro 255- $150.00
Fuel injectors- $360.00
Fuel pressure regulator $165.00
Supporting Mods
Throttle body- $400.00
Headers and Y-pipe- $500.00
Dyno Tune- $350.00
Spark Plugs- $30.00
Oil change x2 $60.00
Total- $8260.00 This does not inclue assembly or installation.
Places to save money
Most likely your lifters could be reused. You do not need a canton oil pan. Head and intake porting can be saved on. Fuel pressure Regulator not a must. Going with head bolts instead of studs will save you some. Rotating assembly has Hbeam rods JE pistons and a forged crank, some money saved by rotating assembly that is'nt forged. Going with regular head gaskets would save a little. New harmonic balancer is not necassary. Also some of the machine work is not necassary if you are not stroking the motor.
Places you will spend more money
Obviously heads and cam package could easily run you infinitely more. Headers could cost infinitely more. Rotating assembly could be much more. On a boosted application the fuel system will need much more work. Also all the new found horsepower will require alot of suspension, transmission, and rearend modifications.
So I was just bored and thought that this might help someone have a little insight on what to expect when setting out on a serious engine build. Hopefully this proves useful for someone new. If I forgot something someone can let me know and I will update the list.
Valvetrain
Cam- $300.00
Valve springs- $75.00
Retainers and locks (for springs)- $100.00
Pushrods- $40.00
Hydraulic roller Lifters- $200.00
Roller rocker- $300.00
Cylinder Heads and Intake
CNC porting (heads) $1200.00
CNC porting (intake) $300.00
Shave heads- $150.00
Head Studs- $150.00
Block work and Rotating Assembly
Rotating Assembly- $1700.00
Full Gasket set (cometic head gaskets)- $400.00
Harmonic Balancer- $200.00
Oil Pump- $50.00
Oil Pan- $300.00
Cam Bearing- $20.00
Freeze Plugs- $20.00
Bore Block- $100.00
Clean Block- $25.00
Notch Block- $100.00
Deck Block- $120.00
Balance Assembly- $150.00
Notch Rods- $45.00
Fuel system
Walbro 255- $150.00
Fuel injectors- $360.00
Fuel pressure regulator $165.00
Supporting Mods
Throttle body- $400.00
Headers and Y-pipe- $500.00
Dyno Tune- $350.00
Spark Plugs- $30.00
Oil change x2 $60.00
Total- $8260.00 This does not inclue assembly or installation.
Places to save money
Most likely your lifters could be reused. You do not need a canton oil pan. Head and intake porting can be saved on. Fuel pressure Regulator not a must. Going with head bolts instead of studs will save you some. Rotating assembly has Hbeam rods JE pistons and a forged crank, some money saved by rotating assembly that is'nt forged. Going with regular head gaskets would save a little. New harmonic balancer is not necassary. Also some of the machine work is not necassary if you are not stroking the motor.
Places you will spend more money
Obviously heads and cam package could easily run you infinitely more. Headers could cost infinitely more. Rotating assembly could be much more. On a boosted application the fuel system will need much more work. Also all the new found horsepower will require alot of suspension, transmission, and rearend modifications.
So I was just bored and thought that this might help someone have a little insight on what to expect when setting out on a serious engine build. Hopefully this proves useful for someone new. If I forgot something someone can let me know and I will update the list.
#3
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Walbro 255- $150.00 used $75-100
Fuel injectors- $360.00 used $180-230
Fuel pressure regulator $165.00 used $100-135
Throttle body- $400.00 used $200-250 BBK/Holley/
Pro.Products new $220
Headers and Y-pipe- $500.00 used $175-230 pacesetter/hooker 1 3/4"
Y-pipe $80-145
Rockers $130-220 used depending on what u want
Dyno Tune- $350.00 dont know lol
Fuel injectors- $360.00 used $180-230
Fuel pressure regulator $165.00 used $100-135
Throttle body- $400.00 used $200-250 BBK/Holley/
Pro.Products new $220
Headers and Y-pipe- $500.00 used $175-230 pacesetter/hooker 1 3/4"
Y-pipe $80-145
Rockers $130-220 used depending on what u want
Dyno Tune- $350.00 dont know lol
#4
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#10
my bad for expressing the fact that I got a good deal on a car.
It is a 94 Z28 hardtop with a 6 speed, 10 bolt and a 396 stroker motor. Has 12:1 compression ratio, CNC ported stock heads, cc306 cam (please dont bother telling me its small I already know), has an eagle comp rotating assembly with JE flat tops, H beam rods, and 4340 3.875" crank, 58mm throttle body, shorty headers (again I know, and longtubes are sitting on my floor), it was dyno tuned using LT1 edit, put down 409 rwhp and 429 rwtq. Didnt really see where any details on my car were necassary for the thread. I am just giving a list of stuff people should expect to pay and a rough estimate on what it will cost. Not sure why you are trying to call bullshit on me, but I can assure you I did spend 30 minutes typing up a post for attention.
#18
So I thought, until I put them on and realized that the headers are hitting the tubular K member and wont bolt up. So I get to take a grinder to the k member
#19
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now i dont have headers yet so i dont have much room to talk but how in the world are shortys gonna hit on a tubular k member? most people can use long tubes fine with a tubular k member if im not mistaken.....
#20
I have longtubes that I am putting on, they are hitting the K member. Shorties are out of the picture