Clutch disengagement issues... I'm totally stumped
08-29-2009, 12:26 PM
#21
FWIW I found bleeding a stock hydraulic after opening the system never was 100%...went with a new complete GM unit and did not break it open.....have NO issues with my hydraulics after a few clutch swaps
good luck
good luck
08-30-2009, 10:21 PM
#22
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok time for good news finally.
Problems not completely solved but I'm almost there. I did the adjustable stock master cylinder conversion successfully today. I took a ballpark guess when it was done and expanded the master cylinder rod 1/4". I was almost right on-- when I hand spun the back wheels (engine off, car on jackstands still) they spun nearly as freely in 1st gear as they did in neutral.
I'm probably going to try to bleed it a little more next time since I cracked the system open again today to rebuild the master cylinder. That should get me the extra range I need to fully disengage and get this car back on the ground. If not, i'll just expand the MC rod a tiny bit more, like an 1/8" and I should be fine.
I would suggest to anyone who needs an adjustable master cylinder to do this first- its cheap, easy, only takes a couple hours. All you really need besides basic tools is a 3/8"x16 die and a dremel with a cutting wheel. The only downside is that it doesn't have quite as big of a range as the McLeod due to the smaller bore size, it can't potentially push as much fluid to the slave.
At some point in the near future, maybe over the winter, I'm gonna just buy a new complete GM unit that some of you guys are talking about and install it, and never ever open it.
Problems not completely solved but I'm almost there. I did the adjustable stock master cylinder conversion successfully today. I took a ballpark guess when it was done and expanded the master cylinder rod 1/4". I was almost right on-- when I hand spun the back wheels (engine off, car on jackstands still) they spun nearly as freely in 1st gear as they did in neutral.
I'm probably going to try to bleed it a little more next time since I cracked the system open again today to rebuild the master cylinder. That should get me the extra range I need to fully disengage and get this car back on the ground. If not, i'll just expand the MC rod a tiny bit more, like an 1/8" and I should be fine.
I would suggest to anyone who needs an adjustable master cylinder to do this first- its cheap, easy, only takes a couple hours. All you really need besides basic tools is a 3/8"x16 die and a dremel with a cutting wheel. The only downside is that it doesn't have quite as big of a range as the McLeod due to the smaller bore size, it can't potentially push as much fluid to the slave.
At some point in the near future, maybe over the winter, I'm gonna just buy a new complete GM unit that some of you guys are talking about and install it, and never ever open it.
08-31-2009, 01:48 AM
#23
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok time for good news finally.
Problems not completely solved but I'm almost there. I did the adjustable stock master cylinder conversion successfully today. I took a ballpark guess when it was done and expanded the master cylinder rod 1/4". I was almost right on-- when I hand spun the back wheels (engine off, car on jackstands still) they spun nearly as freely in 1st gear as they did in neutral.
I'm probably going to try to bleed it a little more next time since I cracked the system open again today to rebuild the master cylinder. That should get me the extra range I need to fully disengage and get this car back on the ground. If not, i'll just expand the MC rod a tiny bit more, like an 1/8" and I should be fine.
I would suggest to anyone who needs an adjustable master cylinder to do this first- its cheap, easy, only takes a couple hours. All you really need besides basic tools is a 3/8"x16 die and a dremel with a cutting wheel. The only downside is that it doesn't have quite as big of a range as the McLeod due to the smaller bore size, it can't potentially push as much fluid to the slave.
At some point in the near future, maybe over the winter, I'm gonna just buy a new complete GM unit that some of you guys are talking about and install it, and never ever open it.
Problems not completely solved but I'm almost there. I did the adjustable stock master cylinder conversion successfully today. I took a ballpark guess when it was done and expanded the master cylinder rod 1/4". I was almost right on-- when I hand spun the back wheels (engine off, car on jackstands still) they spun nearly as freely in 1st gear as they did in neutral.
I'm probably going to try to bleed it a little more next time since I cracked the system open again today to rebuild the master cylinder. That should get me the extra range I need to fully disengage and get this car back on the ground. If not, i'll just expand the MC rod a tiny bit more, like an 1/8" and I should be fine.
I would suggest to anyone who needs an adjustable master cylinder to do this first- its cheap, easy, only takes a couple hours. All you really need besides basic tools is a 3/8"x16 die and a dremel with a cutting wheel. The only downside is that it doesn't have quite as big of a range as the McLeod due to the smaller bore size, it can't potentially push as much fluid to the slave.
At some point in the near future, maybe over the winter, I'm gonna just buy a new complete GM unit that some of you guys are talking about and install it, and never ever open it.
08-31-2009, 08:29 PM
#24
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Counted Out - this one-
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
****** - How much did that complete GM pre-bled unit cost?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
****** - How much did that complete GM pre-bled unit cost?
08-31-2009, 09:01 PM
#25
09-01-2009, 11:24 AM
#26
09-02-2009, 09:44 AM
#27
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Alright thanks for the info guys. I'll be buying ne of those in the near future.
On a good note I finally completely straightened out my problem. I got my master cylinder adjusted properly so that it pushes the slave enough to completely disengage the clutch with pushing the clutchfork into the spinning pressure plate.
At first I guessed that expanding the rod 1/4" would be in the ballpark and while I was rotating my wheels by hand on the jackstand I felt a tiny bit of resistance. I didn't relize that that was the extra rotational mass of the gears in the transmission spinning (versus none of them spinning while in neutral). When I let the car down to the ground and started it up the engagement point of the clutch was super high in the pedal and the fork was just barely rubbing on the pressure plate (ouch!). So I shut it off and shortened the rod down to 1/8" longer than stock length and gave it another try. The engagement point is right on the money and my transmission hasn't shifted this smoothly in a long time.
Now I've just gotta behave myself for 500 miles of clutch break-in and then I can enjoy the last few months of the toy season before the car goes to storage for the miserable New York winter!
On a good note I finally completely straightened out my problem. I got my master cylinder adjusted properly so that it pushes the slave enough to completely disengage the clutch with pushing the clutchfork into the spinning pressure plate.
At first I guessed that expanding the rod 1/4" would be in the ballpark and while I was rotating my wheels by hand on the jackstand I felt a tiny bit of resistance. I didn't relize that that was the extra rotational mass of the gears in the transmission spinning (versus none of them spinning while in neutral). When I let the car down to the ground and started it up the engagement point of the clutch was super high in the pedal and the fork was just barely rubbing on the pressure plate (ouch!). So I shut it off and shortened the rod down to 1/8" longer than stock length and gave it another try. The engagement point is right on the money and my transmission hasn't shifted this smoothly in a long time.
Now I've just gotta behave myself for 500 miles of clutch break-in and then I can enjoy the last few months of the toy season before the car goes to storage for the miserable New York winter!
