LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Any one ever built a 377CID or 390CID LT1?

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Old 12-01-2003, 12:46 AM
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Default Any one ever built a 377CID or 390CID LT1?

Prety much leaving the stock bores and using a 3.75 stroke crank for the 377 or a 3.875 for the 389? I noticed a lot of pople playing around with different bore and strokes recently. Any case just curious if its been done before and if they were any advantages to it. I have been told .060 over is the max you want to safley bore any LT1, leaving it at what 360 cube for a stock stroke crank car to have an "all bore." Any case I eventually want to pick up a messed up LT1 long block and tear it down just to see first hand.
Old 12-01-2003, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bizzzatch350
Prety much leaving the stock bores and using a 3.75 stroke crank for the 377 or a 3.875 for the 389? I noticed a lot of pople playing around with different bore and strokes recently. Any case just curious if its been done before and if they were any advantages to it. I have been told .060 over is the max you want to safley bore any LT1, leaving it at what 360 cube for a stock stroke crank car to have an "all bore." Any case I eventually want to pick up a messed up LT1 long block and tear it down just to see first hand.
I've seen quite a few of these actually. LT1's cylinder walls leave quite a bit to be desired to .060 is all that you will see before the block becomes a heavy door stop.
Old 12-01-2003, 12:08 PM
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there is a guy here with a Mike Moran built 377 LT1 blower engine. .040 over and a custom crank and rods.
Old 12-01-2003, 04:06 PM
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G was telling m that even at .060 you have to really check the block over via sonic testing, by not taking any material away from the cyl walls, will the block really be any stronger than say one with the typical .030-.040 bore? Also on a 3.875 crank or 3.750, the block has to be clearanced, whats the max stroke crank that can be done on an LT1? I read some thing about a "pounder" 4.125 stroke crank that was used in a 423cid LT1.
Old 12-02-2003, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Bizzzatch350
G was telling m that even at .060 you have to really check the block over via sonic testing, by not taking any material away from the cyl walls, will the block really be any stronger than say one with the typical .030-.040 bore? Also on a 3.875 crank or 3.750, the block has to be clearanced, whats the max stroke crank that can be done on an LT1? I read some thing about a "pounder" 4.125 stroke crank that was used in a 423cid LT1.
Depending on the application I wouldn't use a .060 overbore. Naturally aspirated you can get away with it as long as the combo isn't too radical but any type of forced induction would be a ticking time bomb. It's one of those things that unless you just couldn't afford to grab another block, what's the worth? I've seen a 4" stroke crank in an LT1. It gets a bit tricky and you have to select your parts wisely. I couldn't use my rods (which I really like) with a 4" stroke crank in an LT1 so that would already be a no go for me. Plus, how much is there to gain? These are just questions you have to ask yourself. Parts selection is a biggie when you start talking about doing a stroker. You will make your machine shop bill go up dramatically if they have to spend half their day trying to clearance your block and not hit water...
Old 12-16-2003, 10:29 PM
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I am getting ready to start on my 4.165 bore LT1

It is NOT cheap NORE easy....I guess that is why I am doing it.

Well That and the larger cylinders will go well with my 2.15 intake valves



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