why can't you use break-in oil with ohio crank?
12-05-2009, 12:38 PM
#4
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I dont see any reason not too. Could just be non-believers, who choose to use motor oil in lieu of assembly lube, and not run a break-in oil.
It is significantly chemically different, so perhaps there is an unfavorable chemical reaction with one of their friction coatings?
Best route would be to get an answer from them though. It could be nothing, or it could be something.
It is significantly chemically different, so perhaps there is an unfavorable chemical reaction with one of their friction coatings?
Best route would be to get an answer from them though. It could be nothing, or it could be something.
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12-05-2009, 05:22 PM
#10
Yea I know Royal Purple makes some and I think it has lots of Zinc and Moly lube in it to protect the metal on metal during initial fire up and breakin. But I believe you are supposed to change it after the first 20 minute run in.
12-06-2009, 01:44 PM
#11
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Yeah, Its heavy with Zinc and Phosphorus. Meant to allow for the first few heat cycles to be 'damage free.' It supposed to be drained after a couple engine hours or less. OP: you'll be fine, just get it out of there after the standard break-in procedure.
12-06-2009, 04:28 PM
#13
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I dont see what it can hurt. In fact id recommend the breakin oil. Like stated above its heavy in zinc and phosphorus and those are the last 2 agents in oil to protect form metal to metal contact. If breakin oil hurts the crank then i surly wouldnt want that crank in my engine.
12-06-2009, 04:36 PM
#14
You can use any good quality non-synthetic motor oil. I used to use Penzoil PZL turbo oil when they still made it. If you use a synthetic oil for break in, the rings may never seat.
I don't see the need to spend extra money on special break in oils. We’ve lived without them for many years. Whoever built the engine would've used the proper lubes during assembly such as high pressure cam lube on the cam and regular motor oil or assembly oil on the pistons, rings and bearings.
I would recommend doing a oil & filter change right after the initial start up once you get to operating temperature as there is always lint from towels in a freshly re-built engine.
I've seen one assembly guide that says to pack the oil pump with grease. Make sure your assembler does NOT do that.
I don't see the need to spend extra money on special break in oils. We’ve lived without them for many years. Whoever built the engine would've used the proper lubes during assembly such as high pressure cam lube on the cam and regular motor oil or assembly oil on the pistons, rings and bearings.
I would recommend doing a oil & filter change right after the initial start up once you get to operating temperature as there is always lint from towels in a freshly re-built engine.
I've seen one assembly guide that says to pack the oil pump with grease. Make sure your assembler does NOT do that.
12-06-2009, 05:30 PM
#15
Hey:
You wouldn't really be spending extra money on break in oil, as you need to have oil and a short change cycle on a fresh rebuild anyway. The Brad Penn break in oil is fairly cheap as oil goes and is very good quality with extra Zinc & Phosphorus. They are what used to be the Kendall Racing Oil refinery, and Kendall GT, which was the standard oil for race team engine break in period. Oil formulations are not what they used to be and recent fuel mileage and detergent additives are not always whats needed for a new or freshly rebuild engine. I would check with Ohio Crank and ask them why they don't recommend them, and follow what they say as if something goes wrong whether your fault or not you won't have a claim anymore, as you did not follow their instructions. I really don't see how it could hurt, but you never know, unless you ask them. Also they may have been referring to RP break in oil as its overpriced and not that good, at least not as the others listed above.
Full synth oil is not the best for break in. Good Luck
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
You wouldn't really be spending extra money on break in oil, as you need to have oil and a short change cycle on a fresh rebuild anyway. The Brad Penn break in oil is fairly cheap as oil goes and is very good quality with extra Zinc & Phosphorus. They are what used to be the Kendall Racing Oil refinery, and Kendall GT, which was the standard oil for race team engine break in period. Oil formulations are not what they used to be and recent fuel mileage and detergent additives are not always whats needed for a new or freshly rebuild engine. I would check with Ohio Crank and ask them why they don't recommend them, and follow what they say as if something goes wrong whether your fault or not you won't have a claim anymore, as you did not follow their instructions. I really don't see how it could hurt, but you never know, unless you ask them. Also they may have been referring to RP break in oil as its overpriced and not that good, at least not as the others listed above.
Full synth oil is not the best for break in. Good Luck
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; 12-07-2009 at 07:47 AM. Reason: typo
12-06-2009, 09:17 PM
#16
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Just go to your local napa store and order this valvoline oil. Part # for 10w30 is VV850, and 20w50 is VV851. Its some of the best oil ive seen. It has a pretty healty dose of zinc and phosphorus but not as much as your breakin oils do. We built a 361 inch roundy round motor thats wizzing past 8300 using this oil and the bearings are always in impecable shape with this oil when it comes in for its routine check up. Not to mention we are running well over 500 lbs of over the nose spring pressure on a solid flat tappet cam with no out of the ordinary lobe wear. If you dont have cats i would use it all the time. Just keep it changed every 3k miles. It comes in 6qt cases. I cant see how running breakin oil on their crank can hurt it. I mean if using some of the best oil out there is going to hurt your crank, do you really want to put that crank in your motor. Ive never heard anything bad about Ohio Cranks. I dont think you have anything to worry about regardless of what oil you use if the engine was put together properly in the beginning.
12-07-2009, 07:55 AM
#17
Small point of order I don't see the need to spend extra money on special break in oils. We’ve lived without them for many years. Whoever built the engine would've used the proper lubes during assembly such as high pressure cam lube on the cam and regular motor oil or assembly oil on the pistons, rings and bearings.
Given that reality, regular oil (i.e. - 5W-30 Quaker State for example) now has significantly less anti-wear additives than it did just seven years ago.
So, to combat this issue, we now have break-in oils. These oils have high levels of anti-wear additives, just like "regular" motor oil did seven years ago, but due to emission standards, they're not meant to be used post-break in.
Due to regular motor oils reduced anti-wear agents, some camshaft manufactures are now strongly suggesting that we purchase their optional special coatings and treatments to avoid pre-mature cam lobe failure - because the off the shelf motor oil we put in our cars is now lacking in anti-wear agents needed to combat lifter-to-lobe wear.
All this means that, yet again, due to government regulations, our motor oil has been legislatively modifed, just like our gasoline was in 1975 when the anti-wear agent, lead, was removed.
[Now, before anyone starts on a rabbit-trail regarding Lead in Gasoline vs. Zinc and Phosphorus in Oil, I am NOT arguing that Lead was Good, rather just illustrating the point that it was indeed a lubricant (as well as an additive which raised the fuel's octane rating) which was removed due to emission and health concerns - just like Zinc and Phosphorus has been removed from motor oil.]
So, to "fix" this issue, given the current formulation of regular off-the-shelf motor oil, I include an additive supplement (ex. - STP) with every oil change AND I do indeed use break in oil when making a change to an engine which requires "break in".
That action puts the Zinc and Phosphorus back in motor oil and reduces wear - simple.
That's my $0.02...
12-07-2009, 08:35 PM
#19
TECH Apprentice
No they dont for the fact that zinc isnt very friendly to catalytic converters. And yea a roller motor isnt nearly as dependant on critical anti-wear agents such as zinc as flat tappet motors are, but that doesn't mean it dont offer benifits in roller applications to. It does quite a bit for extending bearing life in high horsepower applications, especially with power adders. Everytime you crank your engine cold im sure you already know theres a second or two before the oil pump primes, meaning of course theres no oil pressure. That short length of time is when zinc and phosphorus are the 2 chemicals in oil that keeps metal to metal contact from happening. All mineral oils 10 years ago had zinc and phosphorus, but since emission laws have been pushed in the past recent years and everyone started putting a half a dozen catalytic converters on a majority of the latest production cars, they had to keep reducing the amount to the point that there is very little if any in todays oil. Thats your reason why the car manufacturers dont use it anymore. Trust me ive seen the difference it makes, and i will always run it in my Trans Am regardless of what crankshaft i put in it. If my S10 didnt have a catalytic converter, you can bet your bottom dollor id be running the valvoline VV850 in it to.