how do you remove these fittings (Oil pressure sensor)
#21
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Sorry. So many words and I've been relentlessly picked on all day.
Anyway. This may be a dumb question, but are you sure you have the correct filter on? That leak could be a number of things. Most popular being the back of the intake.
Anyway. This may be a dumb question, but are you sure you have the correct filter on? That leak could be a number of things. Most popular being the back of the intake.
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I think so? a shop changed the oil. it did seem like it got worse after the last oil change and i took it back to them adn they couldn't find the problem. As for the intake it was done in 2008 and the person who did it says its highly unlikely it would be leaking again.
Last edited by 1995blacktattop; 10-14-2010 at 04:57 PM.
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well i just got back from a shop and they say its the intake leaking on the back of the drivers side and wanted $550 to fix it. i didn't get it done. coincidently that is exactly where the OPSU connectors are. They also managed to put a bunch of scratches in my drivers side headlight cover that i had to use scratch x/swirl x to tone down why can't shops work on cars witout scratching stuff up? their sister shop put 3 DEEP scratches in the same ******* headlight cover 2 years ago during a radiator install and i had to take it back to teh body shop that had painted that door 1 freaking week earlier and have it repainted. luckily these aren't that deep but still, ugh.
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do you have a lot of tools? i don't really have a lot of tools here. I'm not sure what i should do at this point because if its leaking again after so few miles that might mean there are bigger issues? I was under the impression that the intake is not pressurized but whatever is leaking on my car definately is.
#27
The Angle Fitting #2 will require the removal of the EGR valve.
Good luck, and be patient.
#28
OP,
I think you should buy yourself a set of tools and start working on your car yourself.
At first take it steady to learn your engine bay and know where things are and how to open/access them. Shoebox's website will help guide you a long way. He goes as far to note down the wrench/socket sizes needed. You will memorize them quickly as well.
Good luck with your decisions.
I think you should buy yourself a set of tools and start working on your car yourself.
At first take it steady to learn your engine bay and know where things are and how to open/access them. Shoebox's website will help guide you a long way. He goes as far to note down the wrench/socket sizes needed. You will memorize them quickly as well.
Good luck with your decisions.
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OP,
I think you should buy yourself a set of tools and start working on your car yourself.
At first take it steady to learn your engine bay and know where things are and how to open/access them. Shoebox's website will help guide you a long way. He goes as far to note down the wrench/socket sizes needed. You will memorize them quickly as well.
Good luck with your decisions.
I think you should buy yourself a set of tools and start working on your car yourself.
At first take it steady to learn your engine bay and know where things are and how to open/access them. Shoebox's website will help guide you a long way. He goes as far to note down the wrench/socket sizes needed. You will memorize them quickly as well.
Good luck with your decisions.
#30
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The EGR nuts are 1/2"-not metric.
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Heat from the EGR and crank case blow-by are the biggest contributors to rear China Wall leaks.
A few reason why the leak recurs:
Surfaces NOT thoroughly cleaned of residual gasket material, oil, etc. before the re-install, and
Dimples not made to the China Walls AND the underside of the intake manifold, and
Not an adequate amount of sealant on both China Walls which carries up onto the intake gaskets, and
Intake not set straight down, and
Incorrect torquing of the manifold bolts and not repeatedly re-torquing them to take into account the gasket taking a set.
You really need someone who KNOWS how to do this job RIGHT or the issue will return down the road.
Jake
A few reason why the leak recurs:
Surfaces NOT thoroughly cleaned of residual gasket material, oil, etc. before the re-install, and
Dimples not made to the China Walls AND the underside of the intake manifold, and
Not an adequate amount of sealant on both China Walls which carries up onto the intake gaskets, and
Intake not set straight down, and
Incorrect torquing of the manifold bolts and not repeatedly re-torquing them to take into account the gasket taking a set.
You really need someone who KNOWS how to do this job RIGHT or the issue will return down the road.
Jake
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I'm going up to illinois tomorrow to have Blackbird87 change it. Hopefully that takes care of it. I went and got the felpro gasket kit ($15) and a spray bottle of The right stuff ($15) just now at autozone. with what i'm paying him, i'll be a lot less into it than $450-$550 which is what the 2 shops wanted to charge.
as for torquing/retorquing, how long do you need to wait before retorquing? i don't think i ever touched the manifold after it was changed the first time.
as for torquing/retorquing, how long do you need to wait before retorquing? i don't think i ever touched the manifold after it was changed the first time.
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Just a question Why have 2 fittings That = more ****** leaks lol The LT1 & LT4 I have in my shop only have ONE of em Also if your not in a place that gets smogged Throw that EGR **** in the Trash An intake Reseal might take ya an hour or 2 tops Take plenty of pics Dimples are BullShit Never heard of that until I joined this forum After everythings Clean put a bead of Black RTV on the "china walls" make sure its like 3/8ths of an inch thick & up onto the corners Copper coat the intake gasket first & bet that bitch wont leak AS long as you let it set up & dont fire that bitch right up Hell 550 or 450 for a ****** intake THATS BULLSHIT Attention to detail will getcha far if you own older cars Damn 550 is a Nitrous Kit lol Where you located