how do you remove these fittings (Oil pressure sensor)
10-14-2010, 02:30 PM
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how do you remove these fittings (Oil pressure sensor) so i think maybe my oil leak is actually not the intake but rather the fittings for the Oil pressure sensor. I took the OPS off last night and resealed it and ironically i think the leak is worse now which makes sense if its the 2 fittings that attach it to the block since they probably worked their way loose.
this is what i'm talking about here, the 2 angled fittings the OPSU is connected to. how the hell do you get those out to reseal them with the motor in the car. I'm referring to angle fitting #1 and angle fitting #2
this is what i'm talking about here, the 2 angled fittings the OPSU is connected to. how the hell do you get those out to reseal them with the motor in the car. I'm referring to angle fitting #1 and angle fitting #2
10-14-2010, 02:41 PM
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. any idea what size they are or how to access them? i'm barely able to access the OPSU with a ratchet and the special sensor removal tool as it is. it seems like it'd be a PITA to remove those 2.
10-14-2010, 02:51 PM
#5
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I think there is a special socket that takes off that sensor but i don't know who makes it.....the best way to fix it is take the whole intake off and becareful not too break the sensor off there real brittle....
10-14-2010, 02:52 PM
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well i'm trying to avoid removing the whole intake since that will cost me $440 and it was just done 2 years ago. Also i already know how to get the OPSU off as i had it off last night and have the proper socket for removing it. my question is the angle fittings it attaches to.
10-14-2010, 02:57 PM
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Remove the EGR and then use open end wrenches back there. You should be able to remove the fittings together. Clean, use tape and assemble before you put it back in. After you put back in you will still have to adjust it slightly to screw you OPS back in.
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10-14-2010, 03:18 PM
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remove the EGR? i thought the intake had to be off for that? i'm trying to avoid removing anything but the OPSU and the fittings because i can't see what is going on back there. that damn egr did give me a good burn just now since i drove the car ~ 2 hrs ago and i guess it's not quite cooled off yet.
10-14-2010, 03:28 PM
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The EGR valve is just two nuts on the back of the manifold, don't mess with the tube or anything. I don't think that you can get to the fittings with it still on there. If you want to give it a shot with it on go ahead.
It's relly not that hard. It should take like 20 minutes to take it all apart.
It's relly not that hard. It should take like 20 minutes to take it all apart.
10-14-2010, 03:31 PM
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The EGR valve is just two nuts on the back of the manifold, don't mess with the tube or anything. I don't think that you can get to the fittings with it still on there. If you want to give it a shot with it on go ahead.
It's relly not that hard. It should take like 20 minutes to take it all apart.
It's relly not that hard. It should take like 20 minutes to take it all apart.
10-14-2010, 03:34 PM
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The two nuts for the EGR I believe are 12/13mm. Let me go out to the garage and see about the fittings.
Fittings are probably 13/16 or 15/16. I didn't have an open end in the bag large enough. Just use a cresent wrench if you don't have one.
Fittings are probably 13/16 or 15/16. I didn't have an open end in the bag large enough. Just use a cresent wrench if you don't have one.
10-14-2010, 03:38 PM
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this would be so much easier if the engine wasn't in the car. i can barely reach my hand down to tuch the EGR bolts let alone put a wrench on them. i'm afraid if i get the EGR valve off, i might not be able to put it back on. it's REALLY tight down there. I could probably fix it in 5 minutes if i was looking at the back of the motor on a stand.
I just went out there with a 12mm wrench and couldn't even find the bolts for the EGR through all the wires and crap. ugh. there is a reason i shouldn't be working on engnies. at least i haven't broken anything yet.
I just went out there with a 12mm wrench and couldn't even find the bolts for the EGR through all the wires and crap. ugh. there is a reason i shouldn't be working on engnies. at least i haven't broken anything yet.
Last edited by 1995blacktattop; 10-14-2010 at 03:48 PM.
10-14-2010, 04:07 PM
#16
Go buy a bottle of this and a black light.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CFMQ8wIwAg#
It's the EASIEST way to determine where your leak is coming from.
http://www.google.com/products/catal...d=0CFMQ8wIwAg#
It's the EASIEST way to determine where your leak is coming from.
10-14-2010, 04:10 PM
#17
Well first off i wuld use a universal joint with a 4-10 inch extention depends on what you feel like using with the sensor tool at the end to remove the OPS.
Second i would use a 1/4 drive ratchet and a 13mm shallow socket to remove the 2 EGR mounting bolts. Make sure to disconnect the vacuum hose from EGR
Next its time to deside if you are going to remove as an assembly or seprate.
you will need a 19mm socket or open end wrench to remove the sensor blocks.
I cut down a cheap craftsman open end/ boxed right in the middle and it works great to remove this while engine is still in car. you have 2 tools that will fit on there for multiple angles.
And if your afraid of dropping stuff back there they sell mirror's and magnets to help retreav anything you may let go of.....
hope this helps.....
Second i would use a 1/4 drive ratchet and a 13mm shallow socket to remove the 2 EGR mounting bolts. Make sure to disconnect the vacuum hose from EGR
Next its time to deside if you are going to remove as an assembly or seprate.
you will need a 19mm socket or open end wrench to remove the sensor blocks.
I cut down a cheap craftsman open end/ boxed right in the middle and it works great to remove this while engine is still in car. you have 2 tools that will fit on there for multiple angles.
And if your afraid of dropping stuff back there they sell mirror's and magnets to help retreav anything you may let go of.....
hope this helps.....
10-14-2010, 04:12 PM
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well, if you knew the story behind the fittings, is very possible.
After a shop rebuilt the trans a few years ago and broke the original OSU, they replaced it with the one thats in there now which has always read a little low. 2 summers ago Jpack changed it with a newer one (not at the same time the intake was done, it was a few months later) anyway that one turned out to be defective and that night when i got home i changed it back to the one that is in there now. i did not hold a wrench on the fittings when i tightened the OSU and i think i remember seeing a leak sometime after that which was pretty small. lately its gotten larger so last night i took the OPSU off and used some plumbers tape on it since i didn't reseal it when i put it back on there 2 summers ago. since i didn't hold a wrench on the fittings themselves Jpack and a few others said its likely that i broke the seal on those fittings which is why the leak got worse and even seemes to have gotten worse since i tried resealing the OPSU last night. That is why I'm thinking it's those fittings. That and with the exception of a spot right by the OPSU the intake gasket feels dry, especially over in the passenger side corner where the oil is actually dripping on the ground. it seems to me that oil is spraying out of the OPSU fitting at the block and sending oil everywhere including down the passenger side of the transmission onto the ground.
19mm huh? i don't think i even have any wrenches that big, lol.
After a shop rebuilt the trans a few years ago and broke the original OSU, they replaced it with the one thats in there now which has always read a little low. 2 summers ago Jpack changed it with a newer one (not at the same time the intake was done, it was a few months later) anyway that one turned out to be defective and that night when i got home i changed it back to the one that is in there now. i did not hold a wrench on the fittings when i tightened the OSU and i think i remember seeing a leak sometime after that which was pretty small. lately its gotten larger so last night i took the OPSU off and used some plumbers tape on it since i didn't reseal it when i put it back on there 2 summers ago. since i didn't hold a wrench on the fittings themselves Jpack and a few others said its likely that i broke the seal on those fittings which is why the leak got worse and even seemes to have gotten worse since i tried resealing the OPSU last night. That is why I'm thinking it's those fittings. That and with the exception of a spot right by the OPSU the intake gasket feels dry, especially over in the passenger side corner where the oil is actually dripping on the ground. it seems to me that oil is spraying out of the OPSU fitting at the block and sending oil everywhere including down the passenger side of the transmission onto the ground.
19mm huh? i don't think i even have any wrenches that big, lol.
10-14-2010, 04:29 PM
#19
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In order to get the oil pressure sending unit off you need either a socket or this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...3K07VNBTTQXW84
... or equivalent. Only way I was able to get mine off was with channel locks on the plastic body which destroyed it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...3K07VNBTTQXW84
... or equivalent. Only way I was able to get mine off was with channel locks on the plastic body which destroyed it.
10-14-2010, 04:30 PM
#20
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ugh, this is what the end of my driveway looked like when i left to go to the shop btw
as for getting the OPSU off, please read the thread. I have already had that off, the issue is how to remove the 2 fittings it connects to.
as for getting the OPSU off, please read the thread. I have already had that off, the issue is how to remove the 2 fittings it connects to.