Building a turbo Suburban
Today, 12:40 PM
#1
Building a turbo Suburban So, I've acquired a victim for this project. '05 2500 LT, 6.0/4WD from AZ. I spent a few days after it arrived changing the oil in the engine, trans, and differentials. Still need to do the transfer case.
Slapped on a 41930 hitch and put it to the test towing my M3 300 miles round trip down to Watkins Glen for an HPDE weekend. I slept in the truck for 3 nights at the track with plenty of room for all my overnight and cooking stuff. The rig was comfortable and towed great, no doubt due to the long wheelbase and heavy weight.
My only gripe was that I wished for a bit more power up the hills. Which brings me to my next thoughts regarding the turbo build...
Definitely going to stick with a stock cam, but will be upgrading valvesprings. I've had good luck with the PAC1218s in my turbo 6.0 Jaguar but may use a high quality dual spring from BTR for extreme reliability.
The two big things I'm still pondering are the turbo choice and torque converter.
I am brainstorming for the turbo build and still need to talk with Viren at VSR, but I'm thinking a cast 6673 or 7875 would be good. I don't plan to exceed 10-12 lbs or 5500 rpm as this is a towing rig, so I think the 7875 might be overkill. The goal is reliablity and instant boost response at a low RPM (2000 or so). Don't think I want or need more than 500 whp.
Regarding the converter - research has told me that sticking with a stock converter for towing is the way to go. I agree with this on the premise that a low stall will heat the trans fluid less, but my concern is that towing up long hills under boost with the stock converter clutch locked may chew up the clutch and trash the trans.
On the other hand, a looser converter like I have in my 6.0 turbo Jag is amazing for getting up to 3000rpm quickly and lighting off the turbo rather than lagging off the line. A triple disc will also allow me to lock the converter under boost up hills, although I'm not sure even that will survive under boost with 6000 lbs of truck and 7000 lbs of trailer behind it.
Other random thoughts...
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need
-Suggestions on injector? I like the Deka 80s.
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket
3" A2A I/C
Open to suggestions on turbo and converter.
Slapped on a 41930 hitch and put it to the test towing my M3 300 miles round trip down to Watkins Glen for an HPDE weekend. I slept in the truck for 3 nights at the track with plenty of room for all my overnight and cooking stuff. The rig was comfortable and towed great, no doubt due to the long wheelbase and heavy weight.
My only gripe was that I wished for a bit more power up the hills. Which brings me to my next thoughts regarding the turbo build...
Definitely going to stick with a stock cam, but will be upgrading valvesprings. I've had good luck with the PAC1218s in my turbo 6.0 Jaguar but may use a high quality dual spring from BTR for extreme reliability.
The two big things I'm still pondering are the turbo choice and torque converter.
I am brainstorming for the turbo build and still need to talk with Viren at VSR, but I'm thinking a cast 6673 or 7875 would be good. I don't plan to exceed 10-12 lbs or 5500 rpm as this is a towing rig, so I think the 7875 might be overkill. The goal is reliablity and instant boost response at a low RPM (2000 or so). Don't think I want or need more than 500 whp.
Regarding the converter - research has told me that sticking with a stock converter for towing is the way to go. I agree with this on the premise that a low stall will heat the trans fluid less, but my concern is that towing up long hills under boost with the stock converter clutch locked may chew up the clutch and trash the trans.
On the other hand, a looser converter like I have in my 6.0 turbo Jag is amazing for getting up to 3000rpm quickly and lighting off the turbo rather than lagging off the line. A triple disc will also allow me to lock the converter under boost up hills, although I'm not sure even that will survive under boost with 6000 lbs of truck and 7000 lbs of trailer behind it.
Other random thoughts...
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need
-Suggestions on injector? I like the Deka 80s.
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket
3" A2A I/C
Open to suggestions on turbo and converter.
Today, 01:04 PM
#2
So, I've acquired a victim for this project. '05 2500 LT, 6.0/4WD from AZ. I spent a few days after it arrived changing the oil in the engine, trans, and differentials. Still need to do the transfer case.
Slapped on a 41930 hitch and put it to the test towing my M3 300 miles round trip down to Watkins Glen for an HPDE weekend. I slept in the truck for 3 nights at the track with plenty of room for all my overnight and cooking stuff. The rig was comfortable and towed great, no doubt due to the long wheelbase and heavy weight.
My only gripe was that I wished for a bit more power up the hills. Which brings me to my next thoughts regarding the turbo build...
Definitely going to stick with a stock cam, but will be upgrading valvesprings. I've had good luck with the PAC1218s in my turbo 6.0 Jaguar but may use a high quality dual spring from BTR for extreme reliability.
The two big things I'm still pondering are the turbo choice and torque converter.
I am brainstorming for the turbo build and still need to talk with Viren at VSR, but I'm thinking a cast 6673 or 7875 would be good. I don't plan to exceed 10-12 lbs or 5500 rpm as this is a towing rig, so I think the 7875 might be overkill. The goal is reliablity and instant boost response at a low RPM (2000 or so). Don't think I want or need more than 500 whp.
Regarding the converter - research has told me that sticking with a stock converter for towing is the way to go. I agree with this on the premise that a low stall will heat the trans fluid less, but my concern is that towing up long hills under boost with the stock converter clutch locked may chew up the clutch and trash the trans.
On the other hand, a looser converter like I have in my 6.0 turbo Jag is amazing for getting up to 3000rpm quickly and lighting off the turbo rather than lagging off the line. A triple disc will also allow me to lock the converter under boost up hills, although I'm not sure even that will survive under boost with 6000 lbs of truck and 7000 lbs of trailer behind it.
Other random thoughts...
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need
-Suggestions on injector? I like the Deka 80s.
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket
3" A2A I/C
Open to suggestions on turbo and converter.
Slapped on a 41930 hitch and put it to the test towing my M3 300 miles round trip down to Watkins Glen for an HPDE weekend. I slept in the truck for 3 nights at the track with plenty of room for all my overnight and cooking stuff. The rig was comfortable and towed great, no doubt due to the long wheelbase and heavy weight.
My only gripe was that I wished for a bit more power up the hills. Which brings me to my next thoughts regarding the turbo build...
Definitely going to stick with a stock cam, but will be upgrading valvesprings. I've had good luck with the PAC1218s in my turbo 6.0 Jaguar but may use a high quality dual spring from BTR for extreme reliability.
The two big things I'm still pondering are the turbo choice and torque converter.
I am brainstorming for the turbo build and still need to talk with Viren at VSR, but I'm thinking a cast 6673 or 7875 would be good. I don't plan to exceed 10-12 lbs or 5500 rpm as this is a towing rig, so I think the 7875 might be overkill. The goal is reliablity and instant boost response at a low RPM (2000 or so). Don't think I want or need more than 500 whp.
Regarding the converter - research has told me that sticking with a stock converter for towing is the way to go. I agree with this on the premise that a low stall will heat the trans fluid less, but my concern is that towing up long hills under boost with the stock converter clutch locked may chew up the clutch and trash the trans.
On the other hand, a looser converter like I have in my 6.0 turbo Jag is amazing for getting up to 3000rpm quickly and lighting off the turbo rather than lagging off the line. A triple disc will also allow me to lock the converter under boost up hills, although I'm not sure even that will survive under boost with 6000 lbs of truck and 7000 lbs of trailer behind it.
Other random thoughts...
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need
-Suggestions on injector? I like the Deka 80s.
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket
3" A2A I/C
Open to suggestions on turbo and converter.
12psi might be a little much for stock pistons...it can be done but I wouldn't chance it. 8psi max is what I'd shoot for, for reliability. 80lb dekas will be fine but you'd be ok with 60's and they will be easier to idle tune. Although I turboed my son's stock 5.3 and we run 80's.
Convertor: I'd keep the stock one and manipulate the lockup setting to NOT lockup going uphill.
Cooler: Biggest trans cooler you can fit.
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front meh, not a fan of shift kits. You can do what you need in the tune file.
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving I agree
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler good enough
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need not a bad idea but not needed
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket will be too much if you don't have a return system. heats up the fuel and strains the pump if you don't use a pwm controller on it. I don't think you need that much pump.
3" A2A I/C sounds like a plan
Today, 01:37 PM
#4
that’s correct. Going up a hill will require more throttle. Nice thing is he has a tow/haul button and that gives him two completely different transmission maps at the press of a button. The stock converter is tight enough to not lock it up going uphill. Heat will be the problem if he doesn’t have a big enough cooler.
Today, 01:52 PM
#5
Not sure how to do all this in HPTuners, so I would need to look into it.
The reason I bring up converter lock is because the factory strategy for towing is to lock the converter under load, presumably to prevent heating the trans fluid quickly. Not sure I want to do that on a single disc stock converter that has 200K on it.
Today, 01:58 PM
#6
12psi might be a little much for stock pistons...it can be done but I wouldn't chance it. 8psi max is what I'd shoot for, for reliability. 80lb dekas will be fine but you'd be ok with 60's and they will be easier to idle tune. Although I turboed my son's stock 5.3 and we run 80's.
Convertor: I'd keep the stock one and manipulate the lockup setting to NOT lockup going uphill.
Cooler: Biggest trans cooler you can fit.
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front meh, not a fan of shift kits. You can do what you need in the tune file.
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving I agree
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler good enough
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need not a bad idea but not needed
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket will be too much if you don't have a return system. heats up the fuel and strains the pump if you don't use a pwm controller on it. I don't think you need that much pump.
3" A2A I/C sounds like a plan
Convertor: I'd keep the stock one and manipulate the lockup setting to NOT lockup going uphill.
Cooler: Biggest trans cooler you can fit.
-HD2 kit in 80E, Trucool 40K mounted low up front meh, not a fan of shift kits. You can do what you need in the tune file.
-The 4.10 gears in it will help get the big girl moving I agree
-Cast china log, small 2.25/2.5" crossover and 3" DP into a straight through muffler good enough
-Enable Flex fuel with sensor, run blend of 93 and E85 depending on availability and need not a bad idea but not needed
-Wally 450 in tank in the stock basket will be too much if you don't have a return system. heats up the fuel and strains the pump if you don't use a pwm controller on it. I don't think you need that much pump.
3" A2A I/C sounds like a plan
The reason I was thinking 450 was the relative availability and the additional headroom for E85 flow. Ran that on 2 other builds as well, and with a boost referenced regulator I can dump the return fuel back to the tank. Tank holds 38 gallons by the way...might take a while for a 450 to heat that up.
I also don't see any negative in the HD2 kit. Ran them in a couple different builds and they always behaved predictably while increasing the torque capacity of the trans.
Today, 02:04 PM
#7
Yeah that's how I do it in Terminator X on the Jag. Anything over 30% and it unlocks to save the converter. Actually helps spool because the engine can flash up and drive the turbo more quickly. I also have it set up to only lock in 4th gear.
Not sure how to do all this in HPTuners, so I would need to look into it.
The reason I bring up converter lock is because the factory strategy for towing is to lock the converter under load, presumably to prevent heating the trans fluid quickly. Not sure I want to do that on a single disc stock converter that has 200K on it.
Not sure how to do all this in HPTuners, so I would need to look into it.
The reason I bring up converter lock is because the factory strategy for towing is to lock the converter under load, presumably to prevent heating the trans fluid quickly. Not sure I want to do that on a single disc stock converter that has 200K on it.
You do want it to lock as much as you can, but going uphill is not a good idea unless your over 3500ish rpms. Being locked up real low rpm is hard on everything, you'd also want to faniggle your shift points and have it hold out rpms in 3rd gear uphill. I would not let it shift to overdrive except when you are cruising on a flat highway or very very slight grade. Keep in mind the stock convertor diameter is later than a aftermarket stall with a triple disc. The stock stall lockup clutch should hold more than a single disc stall convertor. the triple disc is probly to make up for the lack of clutch with a smaller diameter convertor. The factory convertor clutch lining is also tougher in which it can withstand slipping due to pwm setting...however, I'd turn pwm off in this situation. you'll set the tcc duty cycle to a max of 100% and a min to 98%.