Boost cutout vs vacuum cutout
I'm assuming since I have a small cam, overdrive and 3.25 gears the car should still be in vacuum cruising on the highway.
Eventual plan would be to install it into my 4" side exit then have my current downpipe/full exhaust welded in before the cutout. I would think it would flow better and help spool. Seems like a win win but 2nd opinions welcome.
I plan to run them to vacuum with an air bleed so they open at stopped idle then close back up as soon as I start moving and then will open again under boost.
I may put a solenoid valve in line depending how it works out.
im kinda copying my z06 setup when it had a leaky vacuum line. It ended up being exactly what I wanted and the ecu or extra control boxes couldn’t do.
- counterwieghted to stay closed until exhaust pressure/ velocity pushes it open
- it's a huge 3.5" turbo style muffler ( motorhome I think ) when open exhaust goes through only the first section and not back through the Z . Basically a straight through muffler when open but still muffled.
-initial testing yrs ago was 6lbs backpressure WOT closed and 0 open , I've since turned it up quite a bit but doubt it's a restriction even now
- dirt cheap and only a hinge , no other moving parts to fail - not even a spring
- this muffler could only fit a truck application, it's huge . Not much louder than a stock truck , quieter than any aftermarket exhaust
Is 5 PSI enough pressure to open up such a valve ?
Will the chinese valves close securely under spring pressure to maintain quiet cruise ?
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Is 5 PSI enough pressure to open up such a valve ?
Will the chinese valves close securely under spring pressure to maintain quiet cruise ?
as far as stealth, who are we all really trying to fool? I’m doing it for comfort while cruising down the road. Sure it is loud for a second on start but lots of GM cars are the exact same setup.
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I don't understand why some run nice flowing expensive heavy exhaust system that are pretty loud anyway... Then install dumps. Seems counter productive, expensive, and heavy.
4cyl mustang look and sound... Has that sweet 1.5" tail pipe! lol
Last edited by Forcefed86; Jan 6, 2024 at 11:01 AM.
Electric- Nice that it's loud and rowdy whenever you want. You can sit in traffic and cruise and lope away if desired. Boost also comes on harder from a fixed gear roll on as the exhaust is already uncorked. It can rattle after awhile though and you have to deal with wiring it up.
Boost- Easy install, just hook up a vacuum line to it no wiring. You don't have to think about anything. Loud pedal=open cutout. But that's when it opens, no loud noises at idle and cruise.
They last a while if you don't put them really close to the turbo, mine was under the driver floorboard under my feet and it lasted until I sold the car and made a huge difference in performance.
A friend of mine used one and had it really close to the turbos, like less than a foot away, and it failed after a year.
I don't understand why some run nice flowing expensive heavy exhaust system that are pretty loud anyway... Then install dumps. Seems counter productive, expensive, and heavy.
4cyl mustang look and sound... Has that sweet 1.5" tail pipe! lol
I will look into a little vacuum pump as well. I like the idea of being able to keep it forced shut when needed. Last edited by Forcefed86; Jan 9, 2024 at 04:27 PM.
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Can you clarify ( confirm ) You have the Boost activated cutout connected to EXHAUST manifold pressure, and not Intake manifold pressure ?
Thanks.
My setup is pretty slick now with the Huron Hidden Twins going to 3” down pipes y’d into Boost Loud Valves tied to a Hooker True duals with stock exhaust tips.















