finally a short vid of my of my rebuild !!!
12-24-2010, 09:34 PM
#1
finally a short vid of my of my rebuild !!! finally got a video of my car up let me know what you guys think .. the peck or ticking sound is a header gasket leak i cant get the copper gaskets to seal
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvqaVOk63T8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvqaVOk63T8
12-24-2010, 10:03 PM
#3
These are the ones that pissed me off.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-7154/
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12-25-2010, 01:16 AM
#9
actually they are not cheapo gaskets .. i think it is the lpp headers i dont think the flange is square up good i could be wrong ... plus im afraid to crank on em to hard and cant really cause i used 12 point bolts and its tight around the bolt i had to cut the end of a boxed wrench to get around then to tightn them my f-up i geuss should have gotten the 6 point
12-25-2010, 01:21 AM
#12
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The 12 point shouldn't matter. I'm using 12 point header bolts and I could get them more then tight enought with out any issues of them stripping or anything stupid like that. If there copper gaskets that more then likley your problem, I've never had any luck with them. The Felpro 1406's are awesome and have worked great for many people on here.
12-25-2010, 01:25 AM
#14
rogo!! well i will look into getn a set and try em ... but i really get get em tight a couple i cant even get tighten at all ... i was thinkn different bolts ..still sound good for the lm1 cat... i was thinkin about putn a one cahmber flow in place of the resonater see how that would sound
12-25-2010, 01:31 AM
#15
Tighten the bolts from the inside out. The 12-points give you far more flexibility than a 6-point, IMO. If you can't get the box end of a wrench on them, grind it down (or use a thin-wall wrench, MAC makes a good set) and use it for that purpose only. Next time, go with a 5/16" head, and remember you don't need to crank down on them with the 1406s. 20-30# is plenty tight enough.
Also, every LPP flange I have ever seen has been dead-nuts straight. ****, they're cut from a solid 3/8" steel plate.
Also, every LPP flange I have ever seen has been dead-nuts straight. ****, they're cut from a solid 3/8" steel plate.
12-25-2010, 01:38 AM
#16
i agree that part is straight but i got a bad batch had a very hard time lining anything up dont think they are welded to the primarys straight... hell the bracket on the ypipe was about 4in off its behind the crossmember .. towards the back of the car the just got a set made on friday lol
Last edited by saylorZ28; 12-25-2010 at 01:53 AM.
12-25-2010, 11:30 AM
#18
They are cheap quality not cheap price. When you pull those copper gaskets off to replace them with real gaskets you will see leaks on almost every exhaust opening. I won't use copper gaskets again, especially not on my aluminum heads as I don't want to find out if the gasket will cause any brinneling marks on the aluminum. Maybe annealing would have soften up the copper gaskets enough to make them work, probably not though.
On large diesel engines I have no problem using copper gaskets on the exhaust because the head and exhaust manifold are cast iron and I can really get good crush on the gasket. I believe the reason those diesel engines are using copper gaskets instead of the foil lined paper ones is that they have a lot of exhaust back pressure in the in the exhaust manifold leading up to the turbocharger.
I've already decided from now on I'll use a paper gasket with/without that foil covering for my SBC/LT engines.
As for the 12point exhaust header bolts, I've been using 6 point ones since I can always get a open ended box wrench at the bolt even if the curve of the primary tubes means I can't get a closed end box wrench over it. I know people get 12 points to work so it is just preference.
On large diesel engines I have no problem using copper gaskets on the exhaust because the head and exhaust manifold are cast iron and I can really get good crush on the gasket. I believe the reason those diesel engines are using copper gaskets instead of the foil lined paper ones is that they have a lot of exhaust back pressure in the in the exhaust manifold leading up to the turbocharger.
I've already decided from now on I'll use a paper gasket with/without that foil covering for my SBC/LT engines.
As for the 12point exhaust header bolts, I've been using 6 point ones since I can always get a open ended box wrench at the bolt even if the curve of the primary tubes means I can't get a closed end box wrench over it. I know people get 12 points to work so it is just preference.
