Cam/Stall choices & recommendation please!
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Cam/Stall choices & recommendation please!
383 w/cast Eagle crank, so I don't want to go too extreme. Need to stay under 450-480fwhp. I have stock ported heads, but may upgrade in the future. 11.25CR. Car will be a weekend/strip car, but would like to keep streetability. I'm going with 3.73 gears and will get a stall based on the cam. So I need opinions on both.
As of now, I really like the comp's 280xfi grind. On comp's camquest, the torque curve looks awesome and peak hp is at 5500, so I wouldn't have to spin too high. But I'm really leaning towards a custom grind. I just want to get as much out of the stock heads as possible. I had the CC305 on my 383 and ran 13.0 with a lot of knock retard and street tires. I'm hoping to get closer to 12.0 or maybe creep into the high 11s.
I will be using my 1.52 sa comp rockers for now, but getting new springs, pushrods, etc.
So please let me hear your suggestions on cam, stall, springs, pushrods for my combination.
And I need cash to fund all this, so please go to the link in my sig and buy something, lol.
As of now, I really like the comp's 280xfi grind. On comp's camquest, the torque curve looks awesome and peak hp is at 5500, so I wouldn't have to spin too high. But I'm really leaning towards a custom grind. I just want to get as much out of the stock heads as possible. I had the CC305 on my 383 and ran 13.0 with a lot of knock retard and street tires. I'm hoping to get closer to 12.0 or maybe creep into the high 11s.
I will be using my 1.52 sa comp rockers for now, but getting new springs, pushrods, etc.
So please let me hear your suggestions on cam, stall, springs, pushrods for my combination.
And I need cash to fund all this, so please go to the link in my sig and buy something, lol.
#2
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Do you have flow numbers on the heads and did you plug them into Camquest, along with correct valve sizes, etc.? It'll make a lot of difference... also on 1.52 SAs your lift is .547/.541 which is still decent if you've got good bowl work, port velocity, 5-angle job on some lightweight valves. Though it won't make all the power it wants to because of the lift reduction. 1.6 Pro Mags and guideplates/ PRs will make it a lot happier when you can get to them in your budget.
I like that cam a lot for a mild 383...
I like that cam a lot for a mild 383...
#3
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You say "stock ported heads" like it is an automatic compromise.
If done right the stock heads with proper porting are a GREAT choice for most builds, probably safe to assume based on your post though that you halfassed it.
That crank is at SERIOUS risk for failure even on something this mild, search here and you can see the many pictures of what happens when folks cheap out and buy a Eagle cast crank.
Ignore Comp's simulations. Peak HP will be above that rpm, way above that, if the heads are vaguely decent probably a good 6-800rpm higher. Hell a stock LT1 peaks almost that high in the rpm range.
13.0 on street tires sounds OK till you understand that my heads/cam Caprice with the old 190cc head 226/234 cam 3400stall, 3.73s, slicks tools and jack in the trunk ran 12.7 on street tires immediatly upon arrival at the track after an over 2 hour drive to get there, I even have video. I would guestimate weight with the trunk full like that at at least 4350lbs.
You have gotten too far into this without any true understanding, you have already spent too much and gotten too little and the crank you have is FAR weaker than stock. I would not do anything till you have a backup plan for if that crank shatters.
Not what you wanted to hear but seeing as my Caprice when year round(in Wisconsin) daily drivable was faster than what you have and what you want, maybe I have the experience to comment. These days the car is too much to handle in the snow, but my last heads/cam setup was fine with the little less stall and gear, smaller TB all helping it apply power more gradually.
IMO at this point your money would be better spent replacing that crank and keeping the 305 cam. I am NOT a fan of the 305 cam but at this point it is not the biggest issue in the setup. So at this point I think it would be foolish to spend $500+ on a custom cam and springs.
I would also say the XFI 280 would be a better choice than the 305, but again I think you should focus your attention elsewhere first.
If done right the stock heads with proper porting are a GREAT choice for most builds, probably safe to assume based on your post though that you halfassed it.
That crank is at SERIOUS risk for failure even on something this mild, search here and you can see the many pictures of what happens when folks cheap out and buy a Eagle cast crank.
Ignore Comp's simulations. Peak HP will be above that rpm, way above that, if the heads are vaguely decent probably a good 6-800rpm higher. Hell a stock LT1 peaks almost that high in the rpm range.
13.0 on street tires sounds OK till you understand that my heads/cam Caprice with the old 190cc head 226/234 cam 3400stall, 3.73s, slicks tools and jack in the trunk ran 12.7 on street tires immediatly upon arrival at the track after an over 2 hour drive to get there, I even have video. I would guestimate weight with the trunk full like that at at least 4350lbs.
You have gotten too far into this without any true understanding, you have already spent too much and gotten too little and the crank you have is FAR weaker than stock. I would not do anything till you have a backup plan for if that crank shatters.
Not what you wanted to hear but seeing as my Caprice when year round(in Wisconsin) daily drivable was faster than what you have and what you want, maybe I have the experience to comment. These days the car is too much to handle in the snow, but my last heads/cam setup was fine with the little less stall and gear, smaller TB all helping it apply power more gradually.
IMO at this point your money would be better spent replacing that crank and keeping the 305 cam. I am NOT a fan of the 305 cam but at this point it is not the biggest issue in the setup. So at this point I think it would be foolish to spend $500+ on a custom cam and springs.
I would also say the XFI 280 would be a better choice than the 305, but again I think you should focus your attention elsewhere first.
#4
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http://s322636171.e-shop.info/shop/a...26aid%3D156%26
buy this kit and run the 234/242 .575/.595 110LSA cam from AI
if you dont want to buy the whole kit run the same spring and retainer package that comes with that kit
as for stall run a 3600
buy this kit and run the 234/242 .575/.595 110LSA cam from AI
if you dont want to buy the whole kit run the same spring and retainer package that comes with that kit
as for stall run a 3600
#6
Go with a yank 3600 stall; that would be your best bet, I have a edge racing 3200 it is really nice and a couple $100 less. Like others have pointed out I would not trust that crank; I did not have the cash for a forged crank so I used the stock crank and built a 355 instead.
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http://s322636171.e-shop.info/shop/a...26aid%3D156%26
buy this kit and run the 234/242 .575/.595 110LSA cam from AI
if you dont want to buy the whole kit run the same spring and retainer package that comes with that kit
as for stall run a 3600
buy this kit and run the 234/242 .575/.595 110LSA cam from AI
if you dont want to buy the whole kit run the same spring and retainer package that comes with that kit
as for stall run a 3600
Go with a yank 3600 stall; that would be your best bet, I have a edge racing 3200 it is really nice and a couple $100 less. Like others have pointed out I would not trust that crank; I did not have the cash for a forged crank so I used the stock crank and built a 355 instead.
Do you have flow numbers on the heads and did you plug them into Camquest, along with correct valve sizes, etc.? It'll make a lot of difference... also on 1.52 SAs your lift is .547/.541 which is still decent if you've got good bowl work, port velocity, 5-angle job on some lightweight valves. Though it won't make all the power it wants to because of the lift reduction. 1.6 Pro Mags and guideplates/ PRs will make it a lot happier when you can get to them in your budget.
I like that cam a lot for a mild 383...
I like that cam a lot for a mild 383...
You say "stock ported heads" like it is an automatic compromise.
If done right the stock heads with proper porting are a GREAT choice for most builds, probably safe to assume based on your post though that you halfassed it.
That crank is at SERIOUS risk for failure even on something this mild, search here and you can see the many pictures of what happens when folks cheap out and buy a Eagle cast crank.
Ignore Comp's simulations. Peak HP will be above that rpm, way above that, if the heads are vaguely decent probably a good 6-800rpm higher. Hell a stock LT1 peaks almost that high in the rpm range.
13.0 on street tires sounds OK till you understand that my heads/cam Caprice with the old 190cc head 226/234 cam 3400stall, 3.73s, slicks tools and jack in the trunk ran 12.7 on street tires immediatly upon arrival at the track after an over 2 hour drive to get there, I even have video. I would guestimate weight with the trunk full like that at at least 4350lbs.
You have gotten too far into this without any true understanding, you have already spent too much and gotten too little and the crank you have is FAR weaker than stock. I would not do anything till you have a backup plan for if that crank shatters.
Not what you wanted to hear but seeing as my Caprice when year round(in Wisconsin) daily drivable was faster than what you have and what you want, maybe I have the experience to comment. These days the car is too much to handle in the snow, but my last heads/cam setup was fine with the little less stall and gear, smaller TB all helping it apply power more gradually.
IMO at this point your money would be better spent replacing that crank and keeping the 305 cam. I am NOT a fan of the 305 cam but at this point it is not the biggest issue in the setup. So at this point I think it would be foolish to spend $500+ on a custom cam and springs.
I would also say the XFI 280 would be a better choice than the 305, but again I think you should focus your attention elsewhere first.
If done right the stock heads with proper porting are a GREAT choice for most builds, probably safe to assume based on your post though that you halfassed it.
That crank is at SERIOUS risk for failure even on something this mild, search here and you can see the many pictures of what happens when folks cheap out and buy a Eagle cast crank.
Ignore Comp's simulations. Peak HP will be above that rpm, way above that, if the heads are vaguely decent probably a good 6-800rpm higher. Hell a stock LT1 peaks almost that high in the rpm range.
13.0 on street tires sounds OK till you understand that my heads/cam Caprice with the old 190cc head 226/234 cam 3400stall, 3.73s, slicks tools and jack in the trunk ran 12.7 on street tires immediatly upon arrival at the track after an over 2 hour drive to get there, I even have video. I would guestimate weight with the trunk full like that at at least 4350lbs.
You have gotten too far into this without any true understanding, you have already spent too much and gotten too little and the crank you have is FAR weaker than stock. I would not do anything till you have a backup plan for if that crank shatters.
Not what you wanted to hear but seeing as my Caprice when year round(in Wisconsin) daily drivable was faster than what you have and what you want, maybe I have the experience to comment. These days the car is too much to handle in the snow, but my last heads/cam setup was fine with the little less stall and gear, smaller TB all helping it apply power more gradually.
IMO at this point your money would be better spent replacing that crank and keeping the 305 cam. I am NOT a fan of the 305 cam but at this point it is not the biggest issue in the setup. So at this point I think it would be foolish to spend $500+ on a custom cam and springs.
I would also say the XFI 280 would be a better choice than the 305, but again I think you should focus your attention elsewhere first.
I appreciate your input.
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#9
Op I find it funny that you ignore people that own and modify these cars PERSONALLY and instead think somebody with seemingly zero experience in lt1 cars spec anything for you.
If anything you should go with the general consensus of informed people.
3200 should not be recommended for an lt1. Unless it never sees the track. IMO a tracked lt1 should NEVER go below 3600 rpm. It's a waste of time. You'll realize bigger would have been better immediately.
I started with a 3000. I switched to a 3200 stall thinking I needed more when I was bolt on. I quickly realized I should have gone higher. ON A MILD BOLT ON CAR. (stall/LTs only)
If anything you should go with the general consensus of informed people.
3200 should not be recommended for an lt1. Unless it never sees the track. IMO a tracked lt1 should NEVER go below 3600 rpm. It's a waste of time. You'll realize bigger would have been better immediately.
I started with a 3000. I switched to a 3200 stall thinking I needed more when I was bolt on. I quickly realized I should have gone higher. ON A MILD BOLT ON CAR. (stall/LTs only)
Last edited by LSWHO; 04-29-2011 at 06:34 PM.
#10
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Thanks for clearing up the 1.6 for xfi lobes. Comp's website says it's on a "standard rocker ratio".
I would still like some opinions on cam specs, valve springs, stall, etc.
I would still like some opinions on cam specs, valve springs, stall, etc.
#11
http://s322636171.e-shop.info/shop/a...26aid%3D156%26
buy this kit and run the 234/242 .575/.595 110LSA cam from AI
if you dont want to buy the whole kit run the same spring and retainer package that comes with that kit
as for stall run a 3600
buy this kit and run the 234/242 .575/.595 110LSA cam from AI
if you dont want to buy the whole kit run the same spring and retainer package that comes with that kit
as for stall run a 3600
#12
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Back when I was putting 20K miles a year on my Caprice I had a 2800 stall in it and some gearhead passengers mistook it for stock till I dropped the hammer. Converter technology has come a long ways in the last few decades and lockup means no slip at cruise. They have gotten a LOT more efficient too.
#13
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Didn't see the two posts above until after I posted. I'm not ignoring anyone. I trust what most say on this site, especially when you read the same things over and over from the more experienced guys. I'm just trying to get advice and learn why, so I can explain why I want to do it my way. I'm trying to buy this stuff "I" want and get my uncle on board with it. But when he knows he's right and I'm new to this, how I am supposed to convince him he's wrong. No he doesn't deal with building combinations on the LT1 on a daily basis, but he physically builds motors, balances cranks, bores, decks, hones, valve jobs and does all machine work on a daily basis. He is good at that, but his customers are the ones that put the combinations together.
I guess the moral of the story is that a machinest doesn't necessarily know how to build a winning combination.
I guess the moral of the story is that a machinest doesn't necessarily know how to build a winning combination.
#14
Didn't see the two posts above until after I posted. I'm not ignoring anyone. I trust what most say on this site, especially when you read the same things over and over from the more experienced guys. I'm just trying to get advice and learn why, so I can explain why I want to do it my way. I'm trying to buy this stuff "I" want and get my uncle on board with it. But when he knows he's right and I'm new to this, how I am supposed to convince him he's wrong. No he doesn't deal with building combinations on the LT1 on a daily basis, but he physically builds motors, balances cranks, bores, decks, hones, valve jobs and does all machine work on a daily basis. He is good at that, but his customers are the ones that put the combinations together.
I guess the moral of the story is that a machinest doesn't necessarily know how to build a winning combination.
I guess the moral of the story is that a machinest doesn't necessarily know how to build a winning combination.