LT1 "cam only" dyno results/track numbers?
07-25-2011, 02:08 PM
#41
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We were reading plugs and logging the car. could have been a lot of diffrent factors that blew it up, stock short block had 121k when we started, had 2 full years of nitrous before the cam swap,then another year of nitrous (100shot) then 6 month of 150-175shot before we moved up to tuning for the 200 shot. on top of all that it was my wifes daily driver the entire time. were were making changes after every run or log and we were pretty much done tuning then it blew.
07-25-2011, 02:16 PM
#43
Oh just seen you live on the west coast.
And there seems to be a group of guys over there running these LT1s and getting some good times. The motor in my car is from over in that Area a CC306 with Home ported heads ran 6.99 at 100 on a 150 shot and figured maybe you guys were all linked
And there seems to be a group of guys over there running these LT1s and getting some good times. The motor in my car is from over in that Area a CC306 with Home ported heads ran 6.99 at 100 on a 150 shot and figured maybe you guys were all linked
07-25-2011, 02:21 PM
#44
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No don't know them, i do alot of the lt1 stuff in my area. Most have been swapping to lsx lately. Not me i love lt1 engines,plus it dont hurt having a zo6 to play with. I have always spun these thing past 6600 and normaly they last for a while.
07-25-2011, 02:31 PM
#45
Regardless, it's a moot point now because once this **** happens to YOU; you will lose all trust in the stock LT1 bottom end...I certainly did. I'm only trusting forged internals from now on. I'm sure the rest of you lucky bastards spinning stock lt1s to 7000 think every LT1 can handle that **** no problem....Good luck to you with that 
07-25-2011, 03:15 PM
#48
Well it did. Maybe I'm just the unlucky 1% it happens to or my builder fucked up something re-ringing it Regardless, it's a moot point now because once this **** happens to YOU; you will lose all trust in the stock LT1 bottom end...I certainly did. I'm only trusting forged internals from now on. I'm sure the rest of you lucky bastards spinning stock lt1s to 7000 think every LT1 can handle that **** no problem....Good luck to you with that
Regardless, it's a moot point now because once this **** happens to YOU; you will lose all trust in the stock LT1 bottom end...I certainly did. I'm only trusting forged internals from now on. I'm sure the rest of you lucky bastards spinning stock lt1s to 7000 think every LT1 can handle that **** no problem....Good luck to you with that You said the mechanic put new bearings in it, thats probably what went wrong.
And if my motor popped today itd still have over 30K with 6800rpms seen every day, Id still be happy.
The LT1s have strong *** bottom ends from the factory, the crank has been proven alot, people have run them over 600whp
The rods are forged, they arent what most considered "forged" which would be the 4340 stuff, but they are forged, every SBC has a forged rod a cast rod would snap, in fact most motors have forged rods.
The pistons are a high quality mahle setup. Generally the only reason people dont like them is cause they are hypereutectic.
About the only thing wrong with an lt1s bottom end is the bearings are run really tight, and the rod bolts suck.
07-25-2011, 03:23 PM
#49
I found this dyno graph from 93GreenZ28 with Lloyds 226/232 110LSA cam and really like the torque curve. Anybody else running this cam? Or his 224/230 that is up in a sound clip in nubucks thread?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...soundclip.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...soundclip.html
07-25-2011, 03:33 PM
#51
out there say which is why my 383 has ARP 2000 rod Bolts....once you have one blow up on you, you DO NOT want it to happen again. It's cheaper to do it right the first time than replace the damn motor AGAIN. So the logical thing to do (for me at least) is overbuild the hell out of it to specs I really don't need for my application...(and get a SHITLOAD more power 
)
07-25-2011, 03:50 PM
#52
Exactly my point...there ARE weaknesses contrary to what LT1 out there say which is why my 383 has ARP 2000 rod Bolts....once you have one blow up on you, you DO NOT want it to happen again. It's cheaper to do it right the first time than replace the damn motor AGAIN. So the logical thing to do (for me at least) is overbuild the hell out of it to specs I really don't need for my application...(and get a SHITLOAD more power )
out there say which is why my 383 has ARP 2000 rod Bolts....once you have one blow up on you, you DO NOT want it to happen again. It's cheaper to do it right the first time than replace the damn motor AGAIN. So the logical thing to do (for me at least) is overbuild the hell out of it to specs I really don't need for my application...(and get a SHITLOAD more power )The top end is where the power is made
07-25-2011, 04:07 PM
#53
Of course it is...getting 200cc Ai ported heads...and a bigger cam....already have a ported intake and 52 mm TB....I'm just talking bottom ends here. My cam only setup only made 311 RWHP.....new setup should be 420-430 range with more cubes, compression, airflow, and fuel 
07-25-2011, 05:43 PM
#54
Well call me a rasta man then! I'm telling you MY motor was fine for over a year, 8000 miles before it was over-revved to 6600 and blew up...it spun to 6500 MANY times before with no issues. This is a fact. You are the stoner if you actually believe every LT1 motor is exactly the same with the exact same breaking points...BULLSHIT. Whether you like it or not LT1's can and DO blow up...hey that's great your motor is fine...you want a cookie or something? I never said no stock LT1 can take over 6500rpm....all I said was I personally would not do it and LS1 tech advises against it too, but I guess you know everything already right?Technically if your tach read 6500 you were probably at or over 6600....Ive been told the stock tach can read 100-200rpms off.
the cc306's are good cams, but they need to be revved high. I had one and now i have this other cam, the torque difference down low is incredibly different. Im not sure if a better breathing engine would move the power band down on a cc306 but they love to rev on stock lt1 heads, even these people shifting at 6600 im sure can say that the engine is still making alotof power at that rpm and wants to go higher. Dyno charts may prove different but i dont think the hp falls off as much on the cc306 up high.
In my eyes i would never do a cc306 again unless i was going to go head work with it. You sacrifice alot when you run the cc306 that you dont with a cc503, and a bolt on/stock head car wither either cam normally runs the same.
That being said some of these guys like A/I or LE have been around awhile and have had first hand experience with their cam grinds. the cc306 has been around awhile, its old tech (but it works) but these other companies have tried different grinds and are figureing out more of what works and what doesnt. LE isnt grinding the same cams he did 5 years ago, theres a reason for that i think.
Last edited by trilkb; 07-25-2011 at 05:51 PM.
07-25-2011, 07:51 PM
#55
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cc503 most bolt ons threw a 6 speed..some suspension full weight and some music in the back..lol
12.9 at 111 1.9 60ft. shifting at around 6.2-6.4 whenever it felt like it wasent pulling anymore...
tuned by mark roman
stock ten bolt on street tires...tryed radials and blew the frist 10 bolt up..lol
just pulled the motor 2 weeks ago for a blown head gasket and oil leak and found out all my valuve springs were broke lol there a dual spring and all the inside springs were broke and 1 was completely gone..lol pistons and everything else are fine...
heres a vid of the frist 10 bolt broke about a year or so ago..lol and i didnt notice the tires were gripping so much didnt feel it push the car i was in the moment..lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=JUP3IJF_-N8
12.9 at 111 1.9 60ft. shifting at around 6.2-6.4 whenever it felt like it wasent pulling anymore...
tuned by mark roman
stock ten bolt on street tires...tryed radials and blew the frist 10 bolt up..lol
just pulled the motor 2 weeks ago for a blown head gasket and oil leak and found out all my valuve springs were broke lol there a dual spring and all the inside springs were broke and 1 was completely gone..lol pistons and everything else are fine...
heres a vid of the frist 10 bolt broke about a year or so ago..lol and i didnt notice the tires were gripping so much didnt feel it push the car i was in the moment..lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=JUP3IJF_-N8
07-26-2011, 10:32 AM
#59
Certainly not...I bought a complete short-block fully machined from off a fellow forum member: https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...lock-sale.html
It's real nice
I'll get the bottom end checked out to double check everything and swap over my top-end once my heads get ported...and I'm getting a DIFFERENT tech to do it this time
The old motor will be pulled shortly so maybe I can get some pics of the carnage to post and find out WTF let go (my guess is rod bolts) to silence some of the guesses and speculations of what happened...if it was the bearings not installed right I'll tell the old guy to go **** himself who put it together.
It's real nice
I'll get the bottom end checked out to double check everything and swap over my top-end once my heads get ported...and I'm getting a DIFFERENT tech to do it this time
The old motor will be pulled shortly so maybe I can get some pics of the carnage to post and find out WTF let go (my guess is rod bolts) to silence some of the guesses and speculations of what happened...if it was the bearings not installed right I'll tell the old guy to go **** himself who put it together.
07-26-2011, 02:05 PM
#60
I found this dyno graph from 93GreenZ28 with Lloyds 226/232 110LSA cam and really like the torque curve. Anybody else running this cam? Or his 224/230 that is up in a sound clip in nubucks thread?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...soundclip.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...soundclip.html