2.73 to 3.42 worth it?
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2.73 to 3.42 worth it?
So with my build about to begin, I still need to buy a set of gears to tie everything together. I did plan on 3.73s, but later on down the road because of gear prices. I have found a guy on the forums selling a set of 3.42s cheap that I could definitely buy now instead of miserably driving my stock 2.73s for awhile until I could afford new 3.73s. So I was wanting to get some opinons of this swap from you guys. I have read a lot of threads about this, but I'm still curious about my specific application. I'm building a LT1 that will be my dd with a LE 226/232 cam, stock heads, supporting mods etc etc and either a 3600 or 3800 stall converter. It will see the track pretty often this summer so I'm hoping for some good ETs. But I also plan on taking it on some road trips this summer so lower cruising rpms are on my mind as well. So would the swap from 2.73 to 3.42 be worth it? I don't think I would gain a large amount of speed with 3.73s verses 3.42s at the track which is my main concern. But I dont want the car to be a dog on take off either. Any opinions would be great! Thanks for reading
#5
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Dont waste your money buying a set of gears for a 10 bolt, just buy an entire used 3.42 rear on craigslist for $200-300, and sell yours for $150-250. I just bought a rear with 3.73 motive gears, LS1 brakes, Eaton HD posi, and long wheel studs for $200. Just search around, save some money.
#6
I am not sure where Mayfield,KY is compared Southern Ilinois but this guy has a complete rear with 373's for 150.00.
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...ar-with-3-73-s
Actually i just checked and you are 2hrs and 40min from him. Its worth the drive.
http://ltxtech.com/forums/showthread...ar-with-3-73-s
Actually i just checked and you are 2hrs and 40min from him. Its worth the drive.
Last edited by bowtiedad_z28; 02-09-2013 at 07:54 AM.
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#8
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Good points above about the converter. If you're thinking a Yank SS3600, it will be fine; however, a typical 3600-3800 will feel sloppy with 3.42's.
Even better, consider the newer Yank PAS3400. It's actually their SS3600 with a modified stator that makes it couple up more quickly after you leave the line. I ran one for years as "experimental", but it's now production. It flashes like a 3600 but drives like a typical 3000.
Even better, consider the newer Yank PAS3400. It's actually their SS3600 with a modified stator that makes it couple up more quickly after you leave the line. I ran one for years as "experimental", but it's now production. It flashes like a 3600 but drives like a typical 3000.
#9
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I just picked up a used 3.42 10 bolt for $250. I went from 2.73s to 3.42s in my LE 226/232 cammed 93. I'm running a 3600 rexmax stall.
Although I can't comment on the gear swap because I just finished it about a month ago and it's still snowing up here in Michigan
I ran 2.73s with that cam all last summer. It SUCKED!
Although I can't comment on the gear swap because I just finished it about a month ago and it's still snowing up here in Michigan
I ran 2.73s with that cam all last summer. It SUCKED!
#11
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I just picked up a used 3.42 10 bolt for $250. I went from 2.73s to 3.42s in my LE 226/232 cammed 93. I'm running a 3600 rexmax stall.
Although I can't comment on the gear swap because I just finished it about a month ago and it's still snowing up here in Michigan
I ran 2.73s with that cam all last summer. It SUCKED!
Although I can't comment on the gear swap because I just finished it about a month ago and it's still snowing up here in Michigan
I ran 2.73s with that cam all last summer. It SUCKED!
#12
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Gear setup is not always easy to find someone to do and will usually cost more than it sounds like used housings go for. I would look into the above linked 3.73 setup for that price, the drive isn't bad compared to the time it takes to get gears setup well for a shadetree mechanic.
#13
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I would do that if he lived closer but that's really just not in my budget right now. Especially having to pay off a friend to drive me up there since I don't own a truck lol.
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If I could have done it all over again on my old 97 WS6, I would have went from 3.23 to 3.42 instead of 3.23 to 3.73.
Car saw 99.9% street miles, and the 3.42 would have been a bit nicer for that
That being said, you'll notice a huge difference from 2.73 to 3.42
Car saw 99.9% street miles, and the 3.42 would have been a bit nicer for that
That being said, you'll notice a huge difference from 2.73 to 3.42
#16
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You have a 2 series carrier.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...r-end-faq.html
Are you installing these gears yourself? If not, you will have the cost of installation, gears, gear oil, and an instalation kit. You are WAY better off getting an M6 rear that has gears already. It will be set up from the factory. No worries of gear whine (unless its about to blow). If you really want to go through all the trouble of the swap you my as well go 3.73s. But I just couldn't justify putting around $500 into my stock rear just to possibly blow the thing. Your car, your money but I think that will be your best bet...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...r-end-faq.html
Are you installing these gears yourself? If not, you will have the cost of installation, gears, gear oil, and an instalation kit. You are WAY better off getting an M6 rear that has gears already. It will be set up from the factory. No worries of gear whine (unless its about to blow). If you really want to go through all the trouble of the swap you my as well go 3.73s. But I just couldn't justify putting around $500 into my stock rear just to possibly blow the thing. Your car, your money but I think that will be your best bet...
#17
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You have a 2 series carrier.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...r-end-faq.html
Are you installing these gears yourself? If not, you will have the cost of installation, gears, gear oil, and an instalation kit. You are WAY better off getting an M6 rear that has gears already. It will be set up from the factory. No worries of gear whine (unless its about to blow). If you really want to go through all the trouble of the swap you my as well go 3.73s. But I just couldn't justify putting around $500 into my stock rear just to possibly blow the thing. Your car, your money but I think that will be your best bet...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...r-end-faq.html
Are you installing these gears yourself? If not, you will have the cost of installation, gears, gear oil, and an instalation kit. You are WAY better off getting an M6 rear that has gears already. It will be set up from the factory. No worries of gear whine (unless its about to blow). If you really want to go through all the trouble of the swap you my as well go 3.73s. But I just couldn't justify putting around $500 into my stock rear just to possibly blow the thing. Your car, your money but I think that will be your best bet...
#18
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Not by myself. But I did have a friend help me install some 4.10s in my Cobra last year and we did a good job. So I'm not really concerned with the installation aspect of it. But I did find 3.42s for sell for a 2 series on Summit so I might just end up getting those. 2 series look slightly larger than 3 series so wouldn't they be a little stronger? And I would try to find a m6 rear but those are a little more than I want to spend right now and living right in the middle of BFE, I would have to drive a really long trip if I even found one for sale like the one in the earlier posts of this thread.
Ring and pinion, on the cheap side, $160 (new) instalation kit ~$75, fluid ~$30.
Used rear $250 plus fluid.
Besides you have your 2.73 rear for when things get ugly. Notice I said when not if... Especically since youll be adding more power.
#20
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Haha yeah I'm dreading the day the rear blows up. I'd like to buy a 12 bolt but a $2300 rear end for a car I traded a $1500 four wheeler for just blows my mind. A friend of mine is doing a 8.8 swap with ladder bars on his LT1 firebird and if that is successful then I might try that route.