LukeSMaroonMachine

Looking to cam my 94 lt1 camaro. It is stock internals as far as I know. I would like good low and mid range power. I plan to go supercharged once I am out of college and am building towards that now. Wondering which cams to look at. If I need lifters springs timing set ect.
My car has mid headers and a ram air intake. Other then that its stock.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Adam1203

iTrader: (5)

what do you want to use the car for? Most will say the stock heads are good for the cc503. I run a CC502 its a fun light to light cam im very happy with it. Lots of choices from other companies. However the best choices is probably a custom ground cam.

Its a good idea to change lifters and timing set but not required. You will need springs,retainers, locks, pushrods, rockers, new valve seals are good idea to. If you go to a big cam and have an A4 you will also need a trq converter. I am sure i am missing some stuff and people will chime in to correct my errors.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You need a stall and or gears FIRST For an A4 I would do gears and stall first and for an M6 gears first.

How about rockers, guys have had stock rockers wear through the pushrod cup.

If an A4 are you prepared IF the tranny dies?

Have you done any suspension work to keep the POS 7.5" from hopping and eating the ring and pinion?


I know it sounds like I am trying to tell you not to do a cam but what I am trying to do is make sure you understand there are a LOT of things that need to be done BEFORE a cam.

I made the mistake of doing a cam way to early in the mod process, no need for you to repeat the mistake.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

96 caprice is 100% correct..
Far too many build these cars from the WRONG end,perspective,intention,expectation,financial aspect and motive......
Build that car from the back forward..... everyone knows the factory rearend SUCKS and no matter who has had one last at whatever power level does NOT matter since the the 96% have grenaded them!
There are SEVERAL write ups on 8.8 fabricated rears that will hold up just fine....
Chromoly driveshaft
Fresh 4l60e or and 80e
Reliable stall from one of the many reputable sponsors
A freshened up Lt1 355-396
Larger capacity oil pan
A real radiator
List goes on.........

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If staying somewhat mild and not leaving on slicks though the 7.5" can work, but some suspension mods to avoid wheelhop are advisable.
The stock shortblock is pretty good and the oilpan is decent, the 4L60E built by one of the few good shops can handle a LOT. People get carried away in BOTH directions which you illustrated well.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Op did state he wanted to go to a supercharger so why not have a real rearend in there along with a lightweight driveshaft?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the OP is a lot further off from doing a supercharger than he thought he was. An axle is a prudent upgrade if looking for serious power but for a cammed setup some suspension to keep the wheels from hopping is a way to keep the 7.5" alive and will transfer later. I could see trying to avoid gears if aiming to change the axle later BUT that said if the car has crappy ratio then a cam wont make the car any quicker anyway so most guys will endup putting a couple hundred in the 7.5" as they mod incrementally.

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

I agree with Purple Haze especially with a M6, the sorry 10 bolt will break no matter what upgrades you do I just brought a 97SS and I'm going to build an 8.8 to install as my first mod that way as I make other upgrades later I won't have any worries about "when is the rear going to break".

Nophix

The CC503 cam is a good lump stick. The LT4 hot cam kit is also nice.

You will need gears, and a stall wouldnt hurt. Most of all, you WILL need better valve springs. Our stockers are maxed out on the stock cam.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The HOT kit is not nice, the springs are marginal at best and the rockers wont handle a real cam down the road.

Far as the axle, guys get away with more with the A4 than the M6 and we don't know which the OP has. Don't launch hard on slicks and keep it out of wheelhop on the street and it is OK for a lot of folks.

LukeSMaroonMachine

Yea I should have mentioned mine is an automatic. I looked for months for a m6 and never found one in my area. About 3 months after I bought this one I found one. Alot higher miles though so im glad I went with this one. This has 82k original miles on it. I was not planing on doing anything to the trans or rear end for a couple years untill I get out of college. I dont plan to do much to it untill after school because I just wont have the money working min wage. Would just a cam with what I have tear it up that fast? With the stock converter how aggressive of a cam could I get? Right now I do not have the cash to do much to my car it will most likely be summer before I do any of this. Thats why im trying to build a little at a time.

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

For what you are seeking my choices would be
LPE 211/219
CC503
New valvesprings,timing chain..
7/16" studs, 7/16 1.6 rr, chomoly pushrods and guude plates
Circle D 3200 stall, large cooler...
Longtube headers
TUNE

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

Its a great kit. Does its intended purpose absolutely perfectly.

Makes decent power, comes with everything you need. For being a baby cam, you can't beat it for 600 dollars.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

If your in college working a minimum wage job do not blow the little money you have on mods. It's a 17+ year old car, get a couple grand in the bank first for when something goes wrong.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The cam itself is good at $200 (jegs) but then you're paying $400+ for LT4 springs and the GM rockers that are lift limited....that's the not so good part of the kit.

Luke, with limited funds, give the engine a tune up and change all the fluids. That should give you a good starting point and get you familiarized with the F-body/LT1. If it all checks out you can go from there.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

and many folks have found the LT4 springs to float prematurely due to the heavier LT1 valves.

Those are $35 bought separate.

LukeSMaroonMachine

I just did a new opti, plugs, and ccperformance over valve cover wire kit. Its due for an oil change and I was planing on doing trans, differential fluid and coolant flush come spring.

Do you guys have an opinion on used cams/cam kits?

Wallj

iTrader: (1)

I've heard that buying used cams for these cars are a good way to save money because they don't wear near as fast. I may be wrong though.

great421

iTrader: (1)

OP -

Speaking from personal experience (vs. simple speculation and internet rumors from KIA's), I can tell you that the weak point of the GM LT4 Hot Cam kit are the valve spring retainers.

I made this unfortunate discovery while doing a Google search AFTER the retainer on my #1 cylinder's intake valve failed.

Yes, the springs are a touch weak (90 lbs on closed seat pressure vs. 105 lbs for baby beehives if I recall properly), but they are not dealbreakers.

My personal advice: Contact the cam companies directly; their reps will point you in the right direction.

Good luck and have fun!

moehorsepower

iTrader: (3)

Remember it becomes a domino affect, once you start on something, you will need something else to support the mod, As said, before a cam, you should do all free mods, stall, tune good flowing exhaust and depending on what gears you have, install some 3.42's, mabey a cutout, thou I don't know if there are much gains on a stock motor and the exhaust should take care of that..