93Euphoria

So I know these engines aren’t dry sump but went to a local Auto-X event on stock suspension, and ran several laps & after words did some drifting in a wet empty parking lot. Tires I just replaced 2 front with Bridgestone S-04’s 255/35ZR18. Still running the 275’s out in the back burning them out ready to upgrade to the Bridge RE-11’s 285/30ZR18’s. Anyways after I got home popped the hood and noticed my engine is making more noise. Cant tell if its all the lifters or rockers were starved of oil. May be out of my ball park but anyone have any idea what a custom dry sump oiling system would run on these wet motors?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I would pull the valvecovers and inspect with the engine running, verify all are moving properly and oil coming up. Your wet sump is fine, plenty of people doing way more than this on stock piling systems.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I used to be involved with an oval track car, which used a dry sump system. Based on my experience with that type of pump (Aviaid 3 stage pump), I'd hazard a guess and say that the possibility of installing a dry sump system would be extremely difficult, due to the lack of real estate....

93Euphoria

True! Well good news is I left the car alone that night hoping the noises went away in the morning and sure enough it did. Oil level was good and no leaks, and no noises. Problem is the pressure has dropped a little based on the gauge. Cold start up pressure is now 40~ when it was around 45-50~ before and hot now its staying around 7 at hot idle. before was around 10. I changed the oil & pulled the valve covers and the oil flows through the valley but with small bubbles. Is this normal? I never really payed attention at looking at the oil flow before and was wondering if oil if its normal to have oil flow through the valley with bubbles or if something is wrong. I keep my level at 5.5qrts. Mainly because during hard runs the oil pan probably has 3-2 quarts of oil.

BTW to compensate for not having a dry sump what pump should I upgrade to? HP pump or just upgrade the spring in the stock pump?

Thanks guys.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Gm white spring is $4, but honestly you should be fine. If anything ask Sam strano, see if he has ever had any issues with the stock system in all his years of racing. I don't see how you'd need to do anything at your level, unless your pickup maybe fell off or is loose and swinging.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Check your pushrods to see if any of them are bent. Check the rockers to see if there is any damage on the tips. If you have roller tips (I can't remember if stock rockers do) check them to see if there are any flat spots. If there is an abnormal noise you shouldn't ignore it even if it goes away.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

They don't.....

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Check them for damage/excessive wear anyway.

cardo0

BTW to compensate for not having a dry sump what pump should I upgrade to? HP pump or just upgrade the spring in the stock pump?

Kinda late now that u already have low oil press. Low oil press usually indicates bearing wear. But if your interested in oil control Canton has a couple of items that can help the LT1 F-body.

First is a road race oil pan: https://www.cantonracingproducts.com...-1-PIECE-SEAL/
Not cheap and u would have to pull the engine to get it on your car.

Second is an accumulator: http://www.accusump.com/accusump_units.html
These help fight low oil press and helps lube bearings before start up too.

U may have heard or these before but maybe not.

Good luck,
cardo

Puck

iTrader: (17)

With your motors age and miles I would put money on it being bearing wear, especially if it started after running hard for an extended period of time.

I have two LT1s and both started showing low hot idle oil pressure, one at ~160k and the other at ~150k.