LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Lunati Bootlegger

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Old 11-11-2014, 11:17 AM
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As far as what Cardo0 is saying, I run a moderately large cam (see sig for specs) on a M6 with 3.42 rear gears and routinely cruise around under 1500rpms. No bucking or lugging. There's a lot going on here aside from just camshaft characteristics. How the engine is matched to the cam and how well the tune is makes a huge difference.

So u have higher differential ratio than stock, much higher compression with no bucking/lugging but your your telling the OP not to buy that Bootlegger cam? Well so did i! Why do i always get harassment from hrcslam? No i dont have to prove everything i write thread after thread to a forum derelict! I could care less what your combination and results are or your assumptions u proved. U not only have to explain how good of a technician u are while changing jobs every 2 years but continue to run your mouth berating whatever i say while u have the same conclusion - that Bootlegger cam is to large for the OP.

Rather than defend everything i post i have to reveal your a crazed obsessed derelict here and other camaro forums. Your continued harassment proves it. Your low self esteem makes u humiliated whenever someone posts with better or more correct information. insecure = Someone who insults others to hide their own weaknesses. Thats u to a letter! Just shut up!
Old 11-11-2014, 11:27 AM
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Strong mid-range power. Great street cam. 2500+ Stall converter, 3.42+ gear, & 9.1 - 9.5:1 compression recommended.
•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 276/300
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 224/236
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .554"/.554"
•LSA/ICL: 108/104
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 2600-5800
•Includes: Cam Only
That second cam is actually pretty attractive for a stock cube street/strip setup. Better specs then a lot of the lazy shelf crap people run on 113LSA.

RPM range is still wrong though. It will definitely want more in an LT1.
Old 11-11-2014, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by hrcslam
Those cams have really really lazy exhaust lobes, really lazy. The Intake lobes are ehh, meh, alright. The overlap on the smaller cam is 6° more overlap than my cam (that I need to rev to 7K). The bigger one has 14° more overlap.

The more overlap, the more RPMs you need to get air intake velocities up (or more cubes). They will need good long tube headers, ported heads, and re-worked TB and intake manifold to get their full effect. Advancing the cam can move the power band back down (104 ICL gives you 4° advance).
You cannot say those lobes are lazy without knowing the lift at multiple points. All that was posted on the website was basic advertised and @ .050 duration and lift numbers. A lazy lobe is something like the cc306 with a low ramp rate, whose lift very gradually raises off the base circle instead of ramping up quickly - leaving you with far from max valve lift for most of the cam rotation, and only giving max lift for a short period of time. That is opposed to an aggressive lobe, which quickly goes from zero to max valve lift, making much more average power but being harder on the valvetrain. Two cams with the same cam card duration at .050 can have drastically different duration at .020 if one gets off the seat much quicker.

Overlap just means the exhaust valve is opening before the intake valve has finished closing, and the amount of degrees rotation they are both open is the overlap. High overlap is good for high RPM scavenging in an NA build, but is bad for low rpm street manners, boost, nitrous, idle, torque, and emissions. Overlap still doesn't mean lazy lobes though.
Old 11-11-2014, 02:34 PM
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Theres a friend I have running the bootlegger cam.Hes running it with some big mods and has a big horse power engine.He was telling me thats why he went to these cams.For big horse power.but had has hes heads did bored .30 over and the whole 9.So that would make a big difference.If your going that route.The bootlegger would make sense.thats to me anyways.
Old 11-11-2014, 04:18 PM
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My buddy has a 3/4 race cam and some polished heads and makes big power.
Old 11-11-2014, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cardo0
As far as what Cardo0 is saying, I run a moderately large cam (see sig for specs) on a M6 with 3.42 rear gears and routinely cruise around under 1500rpms. No bucking or lugging. There's a lot going on here aside from just camshaft characteristics. How the engine is matched to the cam and how well the tune is makes a huge difference.

So u have higher differential ratio than stock, much higher compression with no bucking/lugging but your your telling the OP not to buy that Bootlegger cam? Well so did i! Why do i always get harassment from hrcslam? No i dont have to prove everything i write thread after thread to a forum derelict! I could care less what your combination and results are or your assumptions u proved. U not only have to explain how good of a technician u are while changing jobs every 2 years but continue to run your mouth berating whatever i say while u have the same conclusion - that Bootlegger cam is to large for the OP.

Rather than defend everything i post i have to reveal your a crazed obsessed derelict here and other camaro forums. Your continued harassment proves it. Your low self esteem makes u humiliated whenever someone posts with better or more correct information. insecure = Someone who insults others to hide their own weaknesses. Thats u to a letter! Just shut up!
Wow, see OP, our resident troll; just like 96Capricemgr noted.

BTW Cardo, my rear is STOCK, bone STOCK. M6+3.42 has a higher final drive ratio than an A4+2.73. But I'm the ignorant fool........

Also note: der·e·lict
ˈderəˌlikt/Submit
adjective
1.
in a very poor condition as a result of disuse and neglect.

noun
noun: derelict; plural noun: derelicts
1.
a person without a home, job, or property.





Originally Posted by Puck
You cannot say those lobes are lazy without knowing the lift at multiple points. All that was posted on the website was basic advertised and @ .050 duration and lift numbers. A lazy lobe is something like the cc306 with a low ramp rate, whose lift very gradually raises off the base circle instead of ramping up quickly - leaving you with far from max valve lift for most of the cam rotation, and only giving max lift for a short period of time. That is opposed to an aggressive lobe, which quickly goes from zero to max valve lift, making much more average power but being harder on the valvetrain. Two cams with the same cam card duration at .050 can have drastically different duration at .020 if one gets off the seat much quicker.

Overlap just means the exhaust valve is opening before the intake valve has finished closing, and the amount of degrees rotation they are both open is the overlap. High overlap is good for high RPM scavenging in an NA build, but is bad for low rpm street manners, boost, nitrous, idle, torque, and emissions. Overlap still doesn't mean lazy lobes though.
I agree, to a point. Going from a +70° ramp rate at .006-.050 isn't going to suddenly jump to a 50° ramp rate. Versus cams that start at 52-50° ramp rate from .006-.050. Having the .200 lift would be great but most don't publish that information.

Also, LSA and duration are only results of a cam spec. What you are really looking for is the actual at the valve timing events. That will tell you what the cam will perform like. BMEP is the end goal, how the engine flows air, how much compression it has (static), how much pumping losses, and when the valves open and close will determine where and how much power a particular set will put down.

For example, my cam has 66° of valve overlap, moderate valve ramps, and it's advanced 6°. If I went based on the information most people provide then my engine should peak at 6600-6800 RPMs based soley on duration and LSA. But it doesn't it peaks at 6100-6400RPMs because the intake valve closes sooner due to the advance.

As Martin@Tick pointed out, we need to stop looking at only the duration numbers and LSA and pay attention to the actual valve timing events. The Duration's and LSA and ICL are results of the timing events.

Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants
My buddy has a 3/4 race cam and some polished heads and makes big power.
Only 3/4 huh?

Last edited by hrcslam; 11-11-2014 at 06:57 PM.
Old 11-11-2014, 09:05 PM
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I told him to go with the 7/8 race cam but he wasn't ready to get the hypertech
Old 11-11-2014, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants
I told him to go with the 7/8 race cam but he wasn't ready to get the hypertech
Lol. Why not full race? Then do a chip?
Old 11-12-2014, 12:42 PM
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Full race cam with some edelbrock lt4 heads and an ls6 intake would be sweet with a carb, get rid of this fuel injection nonsense.
Old 11-12-2014, 05:23 PM
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Need a Tornado to get the carb to work on the LS6 intake
Old 11-13-2014, 07:48 AM
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Yup sounds like half bolt ons and half exhaust simply wont cut it here.

Thought bolt ons were titz
Old 11-14-2014, 09:50 PM
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Like maybe a polished intake will really make it the titz. Hey just because it looks good then no one knows how its been F'd up. Just like a derelict that even ownes a home and property - if he acts like a derelict and talks like a derelict u cant call him a derelict? What BS! Maybe a dingleberry then too. Someone that lists there 4L60E trans for there suburban in with their cars profile - but not his car trans. More than enough mixed up poop on one vehicle and he has to add dingleberrys for his wagon in with it. Why not throw in the neighbors vehicles trans too?

Someone that has never even assembled an engine himself has all answers to cam, engine builds and RPM limits. 2 years ago he was posting he never had rebuilt an engine before - but today hes an expert on RPM limits for parts and cam selection. Be careful of cam advice from someone that hasnt done it himself. For a real buttbrain its gotta be easy because someone else told them so - hey its your time and effort. Someone that constantly recirculates internet rumors from unidentified sources (which is nothing more than gossip) on parts is happy to convince u to spend more money whether not your even up to the task - let alone can budget it. Now he knows all the RPM limits of stock and aftermarket parts too - because someone on the faceless internet told him so. Again some buttbrain just running his mouth doesnt care what your paying or how much damage their advice does. My guess the only thing he can keep running is his mouth.
Old 11-15-2014, 05:54 AM
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Cardo, how many aftermarket cams do you have hands on experience installing and or running in an LT1?
Old 11-15-2014, 09:52 AM
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Well ive done a bunch of cam changes in my day and a some engine rebuilds too but exactly how many and how many were LT1 i dont think a bunch of derelict trolls need to know. But even if was only 1 that would be more experience than the bad mouthing butthead has wouldnt it? Any one that constantly attacks others but has next to nothing for experience dont deserve my cooperation. Anyone that stalks me from post to post, thread to thread, forum to forum has using hearsay to attack me and my advice needs some public calibration and to be exposed for his real value - next to nothing. Someone acting like that is hiding his lame information and experience - insecurity.

What a looser, hes never done a cam change or engine overhaul and hes constantly insulting others that have. Yes i do have more experience than that. No i dont need to share a resume with hooligans. Having recently changed cams in my LT1 but not updating my profile shows me how pompous and hypocritical the trolls are on this forum. Telling me and new enthusiasts here their hearsay BS.

Take or leave along with that "bootlegger" cam. Try and post some useful information using facts - if u have any - instead of insults and attacks. Try not labeling and attacking others just because your advice is lame. Yea u.
Old 11-15-2014, 10:10 AM
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I would say most of us who you chronically blindly argue with have more than 1 cam install in an LT1 under our belt.
I am still not sure if you are a troll or mentally ill.

What is the RESULT of your recent cam swap?
Old 11-15-2014, 11:29 AM
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I can't tell, is Cardo0 is talking about someone else or himself?

One day he'll grow up and read back through his posts trying to relive his glory days only to realize how blatantly, loudly, and incredibly wrong he was. His ignorance is beyond any loud mouth I've ever seen. It's impressive really. You'd think someone has to be that ignorant only intentionally.

Or maybe Cardo0 is actual a 4.6 Mustang GT fan trying to perpetuate ignorant mods on as many LT1 guys as possible to increase his chances of beating the Z28's? It's just a theory.

Last edited by hrcslam; 11-15-2014 at 02:35 PM.
Old 11-15-2014, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hrcslam
You'd think someone has to be that ignorant only intentionally.
"When you are dead, you do not know you are dead. It's only painful and difficult for others. The same applies when you are stupid."
Old 11-16-2014, 09:28 AM
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Like maybe a polished intake will really make it the titz. Hey just because it looks good then no one knows how its been F'd up.
I was funnin the thread not slammin you thats not my style.

Ive gotten some hate because i wont give the intake away...believe me it works just fine and in fact got another 5 hrs spent on it this week...being reflowed now.
Old 11-18-2014, 06:25 AM
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Cardo0, nobody is following you around you paranoid freak, alot of us frequent the same forums. We see your posts and normally you spout crap you read in a magazine that is so far off the page that we feel the need to chime in and offer a counter to your BS statements before someone accidentally takes it as the best advice. For example, you said that iron B body heads flow 20% more than aluminum heads on ls1lt1, ( http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...-head-lt1.html )yes, we all called you out on that because its retarded, if that were the case, guys running Super Stock like Ed Wright would be using them, or us in Street Stock. What classes do you race? Do you race? Do you do anything other than read old articles from the 90s? You contradict guys who HAVE the setups that you argue against, like bowtienut, he has been pushing an ARP stock longblock into the 10s for years at 7000rpm. The stock bottom end, stock cam, stock heads are best shifted at 6300, why do I say that? Because guys like myself, CamaroRacing12, and Shon Herron who have been in the low 12-high 11s with boltons only shift at 6300. We have hundreds of passes to prove where the stock heads/cam needs to be shifted for best performance. None of us have wasted a stock bottom end. hrcslam HAS a big cam 355, what do you have? Nothing. You would rather read a magazine article about some parts (which Ed Wright has explained time and time again that you get PAID by Edelbrock or whoever to give a POSITIVE review, or NO REVIEW or they dont get PAID) instead of unbiased (WE DONT GET PAID BY WHO WE BUY OUR PARTS FROM) forum feedback. Your article from the 90s says eagle cast cranks are fine, and it has been shown that up until about 5-7 years ago they were fine up to 400hp, but in the past 5-7 years, even GOLEN has stopped using eagle cast cranks, and is warrantying their engines when an eagle cast crank fails. You spend so much time on these forums, but all you do is contradict what RECENT feedback is, with old crap you read from the 90s. **** has changed since the 90s, Edelbrock shorties are not the "hot ticket" for LT1s anymore, neither is the 306. In the 90s, Im sure there are tons of articles saying how great those parts were, but thats because that was all that was available.

You do your research, and do your own build based on your own reading. Ill do mine. Mine is going be like Bowtienuts bottom end, I'm assembling it myself, its in my garage right now, about to be torn down and sent to the machine shop for the rods resized for ARP bolts. Heads and 230/240 0.600/0.602 lift with 1.6 rockers cam ready to go in, and its going to be spun to 7000rpm. When your build is done, well race.

Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 11-18-2014 at 06:31 AM.
Old 11-18-2014, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by bufmatmuslepants
Cardo0, nobody is following you around you paranoid freak, alot of us frequent the same forums. We see your posts and normally you spout crap you read in a magazine that is so far off the page that we feel the need to chime in and offer a counter to your BS statements before someone accidentally takes it as the best advice. For example, you said that iron B body heads flow 20% more than aluminum heads on ls1lt1, ( http://www.ls1lt1.com/forum/lt1-%7C-...-head-lt1.html )yes, we all called you out on that because its retarded, if that were the case, guys running Super Stock like Ed Wright would be using them, or us in Street Stock. What classes do you race? Do you race? Do you do anything other than read old articles from the 90s? You contradict guys who HAVE the setups that you argue against, like bowtienut, he has been pushing an ARP stock longblock into the 10s for years at 7000rpm. The stock bottom end, stock cam, stock heads are best shifted at 6300, why do I say that? Because guys like myself, CamaroRacing12, and Shon Herron who have been in the low 12-high 11s with boltons only shift at 6300. We have hundreds of passes to prove where the stock heads/cam needs to be shifted for best performance. None of us have wasted a stock bottom end. hrcslam HAS a big cam 355, what do you have? Nothing. You would rather read a magazine article about some parts (which Ed Wright has explained time and time again that you get PAID by Edelbrock or whoever to give a POSITIVE review, or NO REVIEW or they dont get PAID) instead of unbiased (WE DONT GET PAID BY WHO WE BUY OUR PARTS FROM) forum feedback. Your article from the 90s says eagle cast cranks are fine, and it has been shown that up until about 5-7 years ago they were fine up to 400hp, but in the past 5-7 years, even GOLEN has stopped using eagle cast cranks, and is warrantying their engines when an eagle cast crank fails. You spend so much time on these forums, but all you do is contradict what RECENT feedback is, with old crap you read from the 90s. **** has changed since the 90s, Edelbrock shorties are not the "hot ticket" for LT1s anymore, neither is the 306. In the 90s, Im sure there are tons of articles saying how great those parts were, but thats because that was all that was available.

You do your research, and do your own build based on your own reading. Ill do mine. Mine is going be like Bowtienuts bottom end, I'm assembling it myself, its in my garage right now, about to be torn down and sent to the machine shop for the rods resized for ARP bolts. Heads and 230/240 0.600/0.602 lift with 1.6 rockers cam ready to go in, and its going to be spun to 7000rpm. When your build is done, well race.

+1, also I built my engine.

That's gonna be nice upgrade. You putting a build thread together?


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