ss27gogeta

iTrader: (4)

So I just got a really nice 96 z28 for a good price only problem is it needs a new engine. rod is knocking so while it's out I thought I would take the opportunity to put some goodies in it. goal for now is 400-450rwhp i am thinking about doing rods and pistons now. for future mods but I don't know what's good or junk I want something that's going to last for a while and have room to grow. if I would want more hp what would you guys recommend a pro charger or turbo could be in its future. but for right now I'm just doing heads and a cam. Thanks

blk97z28

iTrader: (3)

If you want it built then forged internals is the ultimate way to go! Can't go wrong with LE custom cam and his ported heads! Then I'd go with

http://www.coloradospeed.com/lunati-lt-dual-valve-spring-kit-w-steel-retainers-660-pri-23702.html?reviews_id=2654

Pro magnum rockers 1.6 and some hi tech comp cams push rods.

Kevin Blown 95 TA

If you want a blower or turbo in the future, you need to build the engine specifically for that purpose and understand that you will sacrifice some NA horsepower in the meantime due to the lower compression, choice of cams, etc. It is not really enough to build a strong engine now and then say it will be OK for a blower later with no regard to correct pistons, gaskets, compression ratio, etc.

93M6Formula

Yeah you can't build a motor for boost in the "future". Either do it now or not at all.

ss27gogeta

iTrader: (4)

So if I would stay NA would forged internals be necessary. For my goal or would stock pistons and rods work just fine. or are there a set of rods and pistons you would recommend for my setup. and I think I found a good donor engine from a 94 Caprice. I heard that have lower compression than my engine had is this true.

VoyagerCamaro

No forged is not required if staying NA, but forged rods are always a good thing, IMO. To answer the rest of your questions, 400-450 is achievable with a fairly simple bolt on, heads, cam and intake setup. My personal suggestion would be to already have full bolts on, IE Long tube headers, full exhaust, cold air intake, etc etc. Have your heads shipped off to Lloyd Elliot, get his custom cam. For the valve train I've had luck in years past with PAC1218 springs and the comp cams magnum 1.6rrs, for pistons most people including myself will probably tell you Mahle powerpak, it's good stuff.
Also, building a NA motor and then adding a power adder down the road will NOT work out, you either do it right once or do it twice costing you lots of money and heartache. Power adder calls for fully forged motor, which gets expensive. You can easily have 3k in just the bottom end, not including the rest of the stuff...

PS:I forgot to mention don't think buying new heads is going to be better, people don't give ole LT1 heads enough credit for what they're worth, Lloyd Elliot makes them worth there weight in gold. You also don't have to have power adders to make some pretty nice power, for a street car at least.

ss27gogeta

iTrader: (4)

Where would I get PAC1218 springs I copy and paste it in to Google but I'm not turning anything up that says specifically for lt1 and I think I'm going with a cc503 I'm just looking for rockers and springs to get me by untill winter that's when I'll send my heads off to get done

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Probably want to think twice before taking spring recommendations before a cam is picked, that is very much cart before the horse.

VoyagerCamaro

Wouldn't buy springs before knowing what cam you'll go with, cam first then springs!

ss27gogeta

iTrader: (4)

I'm 99% sure I'm going with a cc503

VoyagerCamaro

Great choice! If you are for sure going 503, the PAC's will be great. And this came up under "PAC 1218 springs"
Google is your friend use it!
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/rsc-pac-1218-16

ss27gogeta

iTrader: (4)

Thanks I just purchased the 503 1218 springs and rr mentioned In one of your earlier posts. now for the last item can I stay with the stock stall. or do I absolutely need one I know I'll suffer some performance without one. but I don't know if I can justify buying one for almost 800$ for a good one. I will be doing a t56 swap as soon as I blow up the a4. which probably won't take me long after I get my built heads on. I really don't like autos the only reason I got the auto car and not a stick is I got a really good deal on this car. if I have to have one any really cheep ones out their that will work for a short time. and what is cam surge I've never had a camed car so I've never experienced it before.

hrcslam

Without the stall you'll experience cam surge and hate driving it if it's your daily. Get the stall, the car will be faster and ride better in stop and go situations. When you swap to a T56, you can sell the stall.

HellTeeOne

That cam is good for a mild setup, but it's not going to get you to your stated goal of 400-450rwhp. And it's not ideal for boost either. It's just a popular grind that many guys use for basic setups, often with stock heads and longblock.

If you want a setup that will make 400-450, you're going to need a good shortblock (a basic budget build with quality rods and lightweight pistons and the stock crank will do just fine), a set of GOOD heads (AI200s, LE2/3 or the like), and a matching camshaft and valvetrain. And don't forget a dyno tune and supporting mods like headers/exhaust, induction, etc if the car doesn't already have them.

M6 cars will need a stronger clutch at bare minimum, A4 cars will likely need a good trans rebuild and quality converter.

If you are indeed intent on going boost, you're at a whole other starting point altogether, and you're going to need about 3 to 4 times the budget of a basic N/A build. You cannot just build a stout N/A setup with these motors and apply boost later, you must build a motor that is optimized for boost from the start.

VoyagerCamaro

Driving a cammed car without a stall sucks. The car will surge, have a lot of power left on the table, and frankly, half assed. It'll sound good and all, but without a stall all the cams usable power won't be able to be used.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

So you are worried about the cost of a stall where $550 will get you an Edge which is pretty good, but then you want a T56 that with a heads/cam package is going to be very hard on the glass 7.5" POS they put under the f-body.

The axle holds up much better under the softer hit of a stalled A4 than a M6.

I made the mistake of doing cam before stall/headers/gears and went much smaller on the cam, and even with a milder cam it was flat out a mistake. I should have had all three first.

If you want to try to cobble it 3.73-4.10s might help the drivability and the T56 really should get 4.10s but 4.10s in a 7.5" are fairly weak.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

If you go t56, you'll also need to upgrade the gears to at least the stock 3.42's on m6 cars, if not 4.10's as suggested. The auto 2.73s or 3.23s are too tall for 6th gear to be usable. Best bet would be to spend the money on a good rear end; BUT the 10 bolt can survive if you don't launch it too crazy and put a girdle on it. Knock on wood....

waltsfastz

iTrader: (4)

Get a stall. Drive it and you will like it. Not to mention like everyone else that the Manual tranny is harder on the POS rearend.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The 503 is also at odds with the stated HP goals.