I was going to put a stock engine back in build thread
11-27-2015, 03:20 PM
#1
I was going to put a stock engine back in build thread I got a 1996 Camaro z28 auto that I got in on a trade at the beginning of this year for my motorcycle it had a spun rod baring when I got it so I got another engine to put back in it and make it a dd I had it tore down to make sure every thing in it was good to go before I had it put in I decided since it was apart might as well put some better Bearings in it then I got them and thought since it was apart why not get heads and a cam I got them and decide why not just get a nice rotating assembly to go with the heads and cam so I can spin it a bit higher at this point I decide why not go all out and make an awesome toy since I already had quite a bit of money in it funny how one mod leads to another lol this is where im at
engine was bored .030 over and has
diamond forged boost pistons
hell fire rings
scat forged pro comp I baem rods 7/16 arp 2000 bolts
clevite p rod Bearings
scat forged crank
king cam Bearings
Custom blower cam from Lloyd Elliott specs: 226/239 .565/.587 112 LSA
le2 heads with lunati .660 lift double valve springs crane gold 1.6 non self aligning rockers and guide plates
Cloyes timing set
arp main studs
clevite h main Bearings
new oil pump with pickup
teaxs speed headers
perfomabuilt lv3 4l60e full manual valve body with yank 3000 stall
Block is now a 4 bolt
what I still need
80 lb injectors
fule pumps
f1a or f1 procharger probably get thins in the spring
full bmr suspension with bmr k member
bigger throttle body
ported intake
moser 9inch rear
c5 corvette brake upgrade
corbeau racing seats
24x conversion
roll cage and sub frame connectors
hope to hit at least 700rwhp with all this car will mostly be a street car for the weekends but will see the strip a few times a year
engine was bored .030 over and has
diamond forged boost pistons
hell fire rings
scat forged pro comp I baem rods 7/16 arp 2000 bolts
clevite p rod Bearings
scat forged crank
king cam Bearings
Custom blower cam from Lloyd Elliott specs: 226/239 .565/.587 112 LSA
le2 heads with lunati .660 lift double valve springs crane gold 1.6 non self aligning rockers and guide plates
Cloyes timing set
arp main studs
clevite h main Bearings
new oil pump with pickup
teaxs speed headers
perfomabuilt lv3 4l60e full manual valve body with yank 3000 stall
Block is now a 4 bolt
what I still need
80 lb injectors
fule pumps
f1a or f1 procharger probably get thins in the spring
full bmr suspension with bmr k member
bigger throttle body
ported intake
moser 9inch rear
c5 corvette brake upgrade
corbeau racing seats
24x conversion
roll cage and sub frame connectors
hope to hit at least 700rwhp with all this car will mostly be a street car for the weekends but will see the strip a few times a year
Last edited by ss27gogeta; 12-29-2015 at 07:35 PM.
11-27-2015, 04:46 PM
#2
Is this a 383? What's the SCR?
Swap cams because the cc503 has too much overlap and not enough duration split. You will be blowing boost right out the exhaust with the f1a. I would only use those lobes on stock heads, they are too lazy. Needs more lift.
Why P bearings? The Scat crank should have a .125" radius but I'm not sure if the P's clear. I have H's on my Scat crank.
2 bolt with FI is a bad idea. Even the stock 4 bolt caps are known to crack at that power level. They are made of brittle gray iron. Billet 4 bolt caps are the way to go.
Swap cams because the cc503 has too much overlap and not enough duration split. You will be blowing boost right out the exhaust with the f1a. I would only use those lobes on stock heads, they are too lazy. Needs more lift.
Why P bearings? The Scat crank should have a .125" radius but I'm not sure if the P's clear. I have H's on my Scat crank.
2 bolt with FI is a bad idea. Even the stock 4 bolt caps are known to crack at that power level. They are made of brittle gray iron. Billet 4 bolt caps are the way to go.
11-27-2015, 04:54 PM
#3
its a 355 long story short to get the pistons I wanted I had to go with a 355 or wait like 3 or 4 months and spend extra $ for a custom set to go with a 383 and I have been debating on changing cams when I bought the 503 I was going a different direction how also thought about sending it back out to the machine shop and making it a 4 bolt but it would take a month for them to do it and are the p bearings not good? And what do you mean by scr
Last edited by ss27gogeta; 11-27-2015 at 05:01 PM.
11-27-2015, 08:22 PM
#4
Definitely change cams. The 503 is not suited for a centri blower and will make it harder to meet your goal.
There's no difference between bearing material with P/H but the H bearings are chamferred to clear aftermarket cranks with larger fillet radii.
I highly doubt a 2 bolt is going to survive. Send the block back for a splayed 4 bolt conversion.
There's no difference between bearing material with P/H but the H bearings are chamferred to clear aftermarket cranks with larger fillet radii.
I highly doubt a 2 bolt is going to survive. Send the block back for a splayed 4 bolt conversion.
11-27-2015, 08:43 PM
#5
i thought the crank was to stock specks but was forged and i bought the p bearings before i bought the crank i originally intended to not go this far but i guess i got bad case of the mod bug lol ill double check the specks on the bearings and the crank if they don't work ill get h bearings what another 100$ at this point lol once i make the block a 4 bolt and with the forged parts i got you think it will survive the hp i desire
11-28-2015, 01:41 AM
#6
SCR is static compression ratio.
Any aftermarket forged crank is going to have a bigger radius that makes it stronger. Are you 100% sure the crank is 4340 forged and do you have a part number? A cast china crank isn't going to stand a chance.
The engine will hold together with billet 4 bolt caps but that's only assuming though is put into the rest of the build. Wider bearing clearances, wider ring gaps, more valve spring seat pressure, the right valvetrain, head gaskets that will hold, head studs, etc. there's a ton
Any aftermarket forged crank is going to have a bigger radius that makes it stronger. Are you 100% sure the crank is 4340 forged and do you have a part number? A cast china crank isn't going to stand a chance.
The engine will hold together with billet 4 bolt caps but that's only assuming though is put into the rest of the build. Wider bearing clearances, wider ring gaps, more valve spring seat pressure, the right valvetrain, head gaskets that will hold, head studs, etc. there's a ton
11-28-2015, 05:39 AM
#7
this is the exact crank I have http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-435010l
as for compression im not 100% sure what it will turn out to be but these are the pistons I have https://www.texas-speed.com/p-2584-d...-included.aspx
as for compression im not 100% sure what it will turn out to be but these are the pistons I have https://www.texas-speed.com/p-2584-d...-included.aspx
Trending Topics
11-28-2015, 03:36 PM
#8
Crank looks fine but those P bearings aren't going to work. Look right in the description... "Requires Narrow Bearings: Yes"
You also need to contact the shop and find out what the clearances are going to be. 0.0025" is a good number to shoot for mains/rods with the rear main being 4-5 ten thou looser. Mine are 23 or 24 for mains 1-4 and 28 on main 5. Rods are all 26-28. I would also consider an oil pump with a little more volume. I went with the Melling 10552 which is +10% HV with a high pressure spring.
Compression should be fine with those pistons and LE2s. I would keep it around 9:1 with that blower.
You also need to contact the shop and find out what the clearances are going to be. 0.0025" is a good number to shoot for mains/rods with the rear main being 4-5 ten thou looser. Mine are 23 or 24 for mains 1-4 and 28 on main 5. Rods are all 26-28. I would also consider an oil pump with a little more volume. I went with the Melling 10552 which is +10% HV with a high pressure spring.
Compression should be fine with those pistons and LE2s. I would keep it around 9:1 with that blower.
12-07-2015, 03:49 PM
#11
update I got in the cleveite h main bearings in also sent the block off to have a 4 bolt conversion done should get it back this week also picked up a Holley 58 mm throttle body and a Meziere Electric Water Pump called Lloyd and he is making me a new cam said it be shipped to me in 2 weeks
12-29-2015, 07:44 PM
#12
Update got my block back it's now a 4 bolt with Howard billet main caps had my crank polished also got my new cam specs are 226/239 .565/.587 112 LSA also got a ported intake from Lloyd Elliott will be dropping off all my parts off at the shop tomarow the guy said he will start putting back together next week after months of gathering parts I'm finally going to see this beast run in a few weeks pics coming soon
