BALLSS

as you will find pulling the T56 for whatever reason after the swap is a fair amount of work so be sure the FW & clutch from the donor car is good. If the FW has blue heat markings or cracks, get a new FW & clutch

also look at the back of the FW. If a stock one there should be a weight cast into it about 3" long and about 1/2" wide. If it has been ground off that means the donor car has a rebuilt "internal" balanced motor. If yours is stock you need a standard FW. Most aftermarket FW like billet ones have a removable weight so they can be used in both applications. If you install a neutral balanced FW on a externally balanced motor, or vice versa, the motor will shake like a dog shiating razor blades

I don't know what wiring adjustments you need to make but I sure think there is a ton of "how to" articles to search on wtf is needed. You should be able to wire it so all functions work as stock.

Bengtson95

gonna attempt this project soon, i jave a couple questions, just wanted to verify, the doner car is obd2, my car is obd1, can i buy an obd1 t56 wiring harness? Or are the electrical connections on the transmission itself different from 95 to 96?

Bengtson95

And yes im gonna look through everything as i tear into it and make sure its all good, thanks for the input man i wanna do this 1 time, not a few so thank you ill keep an eye out for all that

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

They're the same connectors afaik. You can use the obd2 harness for obd1 but not the other way around. You should be fine.

Buckkyman

If you dont tune yourself I contacted lt1pcmtuning and he can do the tune for the conversion from a4 to m6,

Bengtson95

depending on the cost i may do mailorder tune but id like to do a dyno, not sure itd b worth it though, have mild bolt ons, headers, bigger throttle body, smog egr delete, think thats it, or and tb bypass, would a dyno be worth it? also i am going to attempt this very soon, gathering parts i need now, just a little help is needed from yall so i dont have to make several trips to the store, what do i need that cant/ shouldnt come from the other car? if anything comes to mind that i should do while i have it apart please let me know!

Bengtson95

I have been thinking actually, I think I have full bolt ons
full exhaust no cats
Lt Headers
Cheap Cai
56mm throttle body? Might b a 52, not sure
Smog/egr delete
I think that's it....
What else am I missing for bolt ons? Should I gain much from a pcmforless and the one that's listed above? Seems like nobody else does mailorder tunes for lt1s...

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

I wouldn't bother getting a dyno tune with anything short of a cam.
There are a few guys who still do mail order tunes for LT1s. PCM4less, Solomon, Moehorsepower, Ed Wright, etc.

LT1

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like that bang sound could be broken trans mount. Did the shifter feel like it moved up and down?

Earlier in your post you mentioned swapping speakers, does your car have delco bose system? if so dont swap speakers the T/A speakers wont sound right.

Bengtson95

Shifter vibrates more than I would think. However doesn't move any differently when the sound happens, I'm 99% sure it's coming from the rear end, and yes the car has bose bUT nearly all the speakers crackle

LT1

iTrader: (1)

Those Delco Bose speakers come with amp mounted on them, by swapping them your sound may not work.

steveo_

hold up.

so you were running untuned with a bigger throttle body?

no wonder you burned through transmissions, man; you were probably way short on line pressure. that stuff is tps driven, and you changed airflow per tps without telling the computer about it. that's like leaving a TV cable loose.

now that you've decided to swap to a manual, the stuff to retune your obd-i ecm for a manual trans is free on my site, see my signature. you can just flash a '95 manual bin and call it a day.

you might want to use this to generate a bin for your egr/air/headers though: http://fbodytech.com/bin-files-2/fre...uning-service/

Bengtson95

wait so you are telling me that with a 52mm throttle body, i destroyed both of my trannys? this is the first i am hearing of this, honestly not even sure what line pressure is, obviously guessing something to do with the pressure that the tranny used to shift. well oh well, live and learn i guess. but that link, very cool, never heard of it, so it is basically the same as a mailorder tune? i know all the info except rear gears, gotta put it in the air and see if i can measure the driveshaft/tire rotation, im hoping its not 2.73s, anyways what do i need to upload this file to my pcm? dont have any equipment or anything. this is really quite cool please explain more!

steveo_

it's definitely a possibility. you should research before throwing parts on your car and wasting money (a larger throttle body doesn't gain any power, just makes it less linear)

an aldl cable (you need one to own a car like this anyways, otherwise you can't diagnose problems)

it probably is. it'd be driveable with 2.73s, a t56 has a pretty low 1st gear, but of course eventually it'll wear on your clutch since you're going to have to ride it out a bit to get going.

Bengtson95

Well in my defense I have done extensive research on all parts I put on my car, I guess I just missed that very crucial point, and no but does increase throttle response it seems, oh well, damage is done, and I see aldl cables for 10 and for 55, any difference? And yeah I'd like to swap to 4.10 or something like that someday, just Seems there's lots of specialized tools and ****, not sure haven't looked into it too much

Bengtson95

Finished the 1st portion today, got the parts car gutted, keeping the engine and tranny, selling the car as a roller, any ideas on a fair price for it? It's a 1996 trans am, pretty much gutted inside, no rust at least lol, also I have another issue, got the engine sitting in the driveway, bought an engine stand buttt how the hell am I gonna get the engine up high enough to bolt it to the stand?

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

You bolt the stand's mount to the engine in a convenient location, then raise it with a cherry picker and shove the stand onto it. I wouldn't expect that much for a roller at all, unless it has a fresh pristine paint job or something.

Bengtson95

Got it up, bolted it up while the engine was on the ground then me and a buddy nearly got a hernia lifting it up with it attached to the stand, much fun. But yeah, I mean honestly I feel like I got a pretty good deal, pretty sure the engine is in good shape, after pulling it and really looking it is 100% stock, ran crappy probly cause it still had the auto tune for the 6spd that was in it, and probly wasn't maintained the best, but I feel like a running engine and t56, that's a decent deal, so I don't care to get much for the roller, it's in rough shape like I said but no rust anywhere, so like whats a good asking price? I'd b happy with 500, should I list it at 1000? And work from there?

hrcslam

I'd be surprised if you got close to 1k. I'd find out scrap value, then base my Craigslist price a couple hundred more and call it a day. Give it a week, if it doesn't sell, scrap it.

Supercharged111

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about you guys, but scrap here for steel is like $75/ton. Barely worth the gas to drag it there. I wouldn't expect more than $500, because I sure as hell wouldn't be paying much, if any, more than that myself for a roller.