t56 swap! FINALLY
TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
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as you will find pulling the T56 for whatever reason after the swap is a fair amount of work so be sure the FW & clutch from the donor car is good. If the FW has blue heat markings or cracks, get a new FW & clutch
also look at the back of the FW. If a stock one there should be a weight cast into it about 3" long and about 1/2" wide. If it has been ground off that means the donor car has a rebuilt "internal" balanced motor. If yours is stock you need a standard FW. Most aftermarket FW like billet ones have a removable weight so they can be used in both applications. If you install a neutral balanced FW on a externally balanced motor, or vice versa, the motor will shake like a dog shiating razor blades
I don't know what wiring adjustments you need to make but I sure think there is a ton of "how to" articles to search on wtf is needed. You should be able to wire it so all functions work as stock.
also look at the back of the FW. If a stock one there should be a weight cast into it about 3" long and about 1/2" wide. If it has been ground off that means the donor car has a rebuilt "internal" balanced motor. If yours is stock you need a standard FW. Most aftermarket FW like billet ones have a removable weight so they can be used in both applications. If you install a neutral balanced FW on a externally balanced motor, or vice versa, the motor will shake like a dog shiating razor blades
I don't know what wiring adjustments you need to make but I sure think there is a ton of "how to" articles to search on wtf is needed. You should be able to wire it so all functions work as stock.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
gonna attempt this project soon, i jave a couple questions, just wanted to verify, the doner car is obd2, my car is obd1, can i buy an obd1 t56 wiring harness? Or are the electrical connections on the transmission itself different from 95 to 96?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
And yes im gonna look through everything as i tear into it and make sure its all good, thanks for the input man i wanna do this 1 time, not a few so thank you ill keep an eye out for all that
They're the same connectors afaik. You can use the obd2 harness for obd1 but not the other way around. You should be fine.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2015
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From: connecticut
depending on the cost i may do mailorder tune but id like to do a dyno, not sure itd b worth it though, have mild bolt ons, headers, bigger throttle body, smog egr delete, think thats it, or and tb bypass, would a dyno be worth it? also i am going to attempt this very soon, gathering parts i need now, just a little help is needed from yall so i dont have to make several trips to the store, what do i need that cant/ shouldnt come from the other car? if anything comes to mind that i should do while i have it apart please let me know!
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
I have been thinking actually, I think I have full bolt ons
full exhaust no cats
Lt Headers
Cheap Cai
56mm throttle body? Might b a 52, not sure
Smog/egr delete
I think that's it....
What else am I missing for bolt ons? Should I gain much from a pcmforless and the one that's listed above? Seems like nobody else does mailorder tunes for lt1s...
full exhaust no cats
Lt Headers
Cheap Cai
56mm throttle body? Might b a 52, not sure
Smog/egr delete
I think that's it....
What else am I missing for bolt ons? Should I gain much from a pcmforless and the one that's listed above? Seems like nobody else does mailorder tunes for lt1s...
I wouldn't bother getting a dyno tune with anything short of a cam.
There are a few guys who still do mail order tunes for LT1s. PCM4less, Solomon, Moehorsepower, Ed Wright, etc.
There are a few guys who still do mail order tunes for LT1s. PCM4less, Solomon, Moehorsepower, Ed Wright, etc.
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when i was shifting sometimes at low speed it made a very loud noise almost like a backfire, but it also sounded like there was alot of play in the driveshaft and it was like it once it caught it banged againsy something, i know it isnt the driveshaft, just tryig to explain it, but i also thought it was because i wasnt slowly lettig off the clutch from 1st to 2nd and such, didn't make the noise all the time, anyways it shifted well abd thats all im worried about.
Earlier in your post you mentioned swapping speakers, does your car have delco bose system? if so dont swap speakers the T/A speakers wont sound right.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
Shifter vibrates more than I would think. However doesn't move any differently when the sound happens, I'm 99% sure it's coming from the rear end, and yes the car has bose bUT nearly all the speakers crackle
Those Delco Bose speakers come with amp mounted on them, by swapping them your sound may not work.
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 205
Likes: 6
have mild bolt ons, headers, bigger throttle body
so you were running untuned with a bigger throttle body?
no wonder you burned through transmissions, man; you were probably way short on line pressure. that stuff is tps driven, and you changed airflow per tps without telling the computer about it. that's like leaving a TV cable loose.
now that you've decided to swap to a manual, the stuff to retune your obd-i ecm for a manual trans is free on my site, see my signature. you can just flash a '95 manual bin and call it a day.
you might want to use this to generate a bin for your egr/air/headers though: http://fbodytech.com/bin-files-2/fre...uning-service/
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
wait so you are telling me that with a 52mm throttle body, i destroyed both of my trannys? this is the first i am hearing of this, honestly not even sure what line pressure is, obviously guessing something to do with the pressure that the tranny used to shift. well oh well, live and learn i guess. but that link, very cool, never heard of it, so it is basically the same as a mailorder tune? i know all the info except rear gears, gotta put it in the air and see if i can measure the driveshaft/tire rotation, im hoping its not 2.73s, anyways what do i need to upload this file to my pcm? dont have any equipment or anything. this is really quite cool please explain more!
Launching!
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 205
Likes: 6
wait so you are telling me that with a 52mm throttle body, i destroyed both of my trannys? this is the first i am hearing of this, honestly not even sure what line pressure is, obviously guessing something to do with the pressure that the tranny used to shift. well oh well, live and learn i guess.
anyways what do i need to upload this file to my pcm?
im hoping its not 2.73s
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
Well in my defense I have done extensive research on all parts I put on my car, I guess I just missed that very crucial point, and no but does increase throttle response it seems, oh well, damage is done, and I see aldl cables for 10 and for 55, any difference? And yeah I'd like to swap to 4.10 or something like that someday, just Seems there's lots of specialized tools and ****, not sure haven't looked into it too much
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
Finished the 1st portion today, got the parts car gutted, keeping the engine and tranny, selling the car as a roller, any ideas on a fair price for it? It's a 1996 trans am, pretty much gutted inside, no rust at least lol, also I have another issue, got the engine sitting in the driveway, bought an engine stand buttt how the hell am I gonna get the engine up high enough to bolt it to the stand?
Finished the 1st portion today, got the parts car gutted, keeping the engine and tranny, selling the car as a roller, any ideas on a fair price for it? It's a 1996 trans am, pretty much gutted inside, no rust at least lol, also I have another issue, got the engine sitting in the driveway, bought an engine stand buttt how the hell am I gonna get the engine up high enough to bolt it to the stand?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 367
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From: connecticut
Got it up, bolted it up while the engine was on the ground then me and a buddy nearly got a hernia lifting it up with it attached to the stand, much fun. But yeah, I mean honestly I feel like I got a pretty good deal, pretty sure the engine is in good shape, after pulling it and really looking it is 100% stock, ran crappy probly cause it still had the auto tune for the 6spd that was in it, and probly wasn't maintained the best, but I feel like a running engine and t56, that's a decent deal, so I don't care to get much for the roller, it's in rough shape like I said but no rust anywhere, so like whats a good asking price? I'd b happy with 500, should I list it at 1000? And work from there?
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From: Maricopa, AZ
Got it up, bolted it up while the engine was on the ground then me and a buddy nearly got a hernia lifting it up with it attached to the stand, much fun. But yeah, I mean honestly I feel like I got a pretty good deal, pretty sure the engine is in good shape, after pulling it and really looking it is 100% stock, ran crappy probly cause it still had the auto tune for the 6spd that was in it, and probly wasn't maintained the best, but I feel like a running engine and t56, that's a decent deal, so I don't care to get much for the roller, it's in rough shape like I said but no rust anywhere, so like whats a good asking price? I'd b happy with 500, should I list it at 1000? And work from there?
I don't know about you guys, but scrap here for steel is like $75/ton. Barely worth the gas to drag it there. I wouldn't expect more than $500, because I sure as hell wouldn't be paying much, if any, more than that myself for a roller.