Lt1J07

Ive considered just buying a blueprint long block create motor, throwing a good custom grind cam an LE2 package on it an calling it a day. Vs rebuilding my stock lt1 I have now, in my 95 Z. 6speed. 160k mile car......whats your guys opinions on that??? Good...bad.....ok? Or would I better off with building my own motor...having the machine work done my self..ect. ect...? Budget For build is about $6k

Lt1J07

Just what to have a damn good street car..that is capable of putting down some good numbers at the track...

Benjam88

I have been wondering the same thing. Golan sells a 383 Short block with a Scat 9000 cast steel crank forged pistons and forged I beam rods for $3300. With a set of Lloyd Elliot ported heads this could be a pretty awesome combination.

Oh and the short block has a 3 year unlimited mile warrenty.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It's best you find a good machine shop, establish a relationship with them and let them build your motor the way you want it done. Too many stories of those purchasing pre-built engines or short blocks, especially from Golen. You should also study up on the LT1 if you aren't familiar with it, and make sure the machine shop you deal with understands the LT1 can have a higher CR than a traditional SBC because of reverse cooling and aluminum heads.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

I would agree with 100% of this post.

BALLSS

LT1...

you are in Ohio...contact Mike Harris for your LT 1 build.

FWIW I have a Golen 383 (short block) but I went with the forged Scat crank/rods and SRP forged pistons with 4 bolt mains. I went with my own H/C choice and assembled the rest of the motor from short block

As SSR notes, the shop really needs to understand the LT1 SBC as many just build low compression ones like gen 1 SBC..not a good thing

Benjam88

Do you have a recommended shop in Washington state?

atlantadan

If you can afford the Golen 383, you can afford a shortblock from Karl Ellwien. The engines Karl builds are pretty much the best of the best. I found myself in the same spot as you and decided that I was going to do it right, and do it once - so I went with Karl.

myltwon

iTrader: (1)

Problem with alot of the pre-assembled short blocks is they tend to throw in manufacturer balanced rotating assemblies which are usually balanced in the quickest and cheapest way possible and typically done as a lot rather than individually.

95TAVERT

I have been running a Golen 383 forged short block for 3 years now. AFR 195 Eliminator heads nothing fancy, 26/18 diamond Pistons, you can see in my sig. It makes 426 at the wheel not counting the 150 shot Nitrous Outlet plate. No issues and I cut it no slake.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

If you use a Eagle crank it will take a lot time to do the final machining and balancing. I've never owned a scat crank but every time its balanced easier than the eagle.

Honestly an LT1 is just a hopped up small block, so any quality shop can build an lt1 and you can put on the pieces. When I look at a shop I check out their boring bars and make sure they are table mounted, honing machine should be a sunnen sv-10 or better if they aren't using torque plates from BHJ then walk away, make sure they use something like a block master to surface the block and heads and not a belt sander. Try to find out what shops are doing all the circle track racers or tractor pull motors, since these guys will run a bunch of motors thru a race season. If you get your motor in when they are in their off season you can get a better turn around time.

Finally never give them all the money on the front end, if they need parts you provide the funds.

JCSWS6

iTrader: (5)

If you're looking for a longblock delivered, try Herb on eBay (just search 383 LT1). He's an awesome guy and builds everything to order and ships it to your door. My forged 383 has about 5K (hard miles) and has yet to miss a beat!

I almost went with blueprint because jegs had it in stock (custom motor took about 4 weeks). Im so glad I waited and got the parts I wanted in my motor!