Making a road warrior.
08-19-2016, 11:42 AM
#21
OP
The cost difference between the 383 vs 355 comes down to the crank cost. On the 355 you would need to re-size the stock rods with ARP fasteners. Forged 6" rods for the 383 cost just a little more than the re-sized stock ones.
4 bolt mains would be recommended and straight would be fine for the power level you are looking for. I have the Scat forged crank with straight 4 bolt mains
What you get out of more C.I. is TQ and TQ wins. Both off the line and "pulling" at Fwy speeds.
You don't need to build a ape shiat go the fastest 1/4 mi motor. I stayed on the mild side and left HP on the table doing so using a relatively small cam for a 383 but the car drives, IMHO, great. 99% of my driving is street so low end TQ is ideal for that.
The cost difference between the 383 vs 355 comes down to the crank cost. On the 355 you would need to re-size the stock rods with ARP fasteners. Forged 6" rods for the 383 cost just a little more than the re-sized stock ones.
4 bolt mains would be recommended and straight would be fine for the power level you are looking for. I have the Scat forged crank with straight 4 bolt mains
What you get out of more C.I. is TQ and TQ wins. Both off the line and "pulling" at Fwy speeds.
You don't need to build a ape shiat go the fastest 1/4 mi motor. I stayed on the mild side and left HP on the table doing so using a relatively small cam for a 383 but the car drives, IMHO, great. 99% of my driving is street so low end TQ is ideal for that.
08-19-2016, 12:34 PM
#22
On The Tree
Thread Starter
yes sir SS, this will be a NA build only. I have no want or need to slap on a super/pro/turbo charger or spray anytime in the future. not that I look down on it, and I think the twin turbo'd stuff is bad ***, im gonna take pride in the fact that I may not be stupid fast, but I have raw natural power that's available at all times. ill take a look at billet caps, but I planed on bringing the block in to my shop to deck the head surfaces so I could just flip it over and slap it on a Bridgeport to get me some 4 bolts. im not a machinist, but we do work with a ton of stuff made from cast iron so my machinist are pretty well versed on that material to teach me.
makes sense of course, and if a 383 is supposed to give a dumbass amount of TQ then I guess that is the road I have to travel. permission to ask a stupid question. I would have to look into (build) the right head for a 383 rather than just buy a set from Lloyd right? I mean of course a well thought out researched custom built heads is always better, but to be honest, ive been trying to learn myself that for the past 2 months and cam lobes vs. spring tension vs. correct rocker numbers and the ilk of that is frickin mind numbing.
What you get out of more C.I. is TQ and TQ wins. Both off the line and "pulling" at Fwy speeds
08-19-2016, 03:54 PM
#23
Bringing everything full circle, a larger displacement motor will require less rpm all things being equal. The beauty this being that less rpm means less stress on the mains and there would be less need to upgrade the main caps and convert to a 4 bolt. A 4 bolt main conversion isn't far off from the price of a stroker crank.
Clearancing the block for a larger stroke is easy and can be done with a dremel and a set of feeler gauges, I did mine myself.
Plenty of people have made the power you are looking for successfully on 2 bolt mains. Many will tend to er on the side of caution and upgrade because there's little negative to doing so outside of a lighter wallet.
Clearancing the block for a larger stroke is easy and can be done with a dremel and a set of feeler gauges, I did mine myself.
Plenty of people have made the power you are looking for successfully on 2 bolt mains. Many will tend to er on the side of caution and upgrade because there's little negative to doing so outside of a lighter wallet.
Last edited by myltwon; 08-19-2016 at 04:01 PM.
08-19-2016, 04:35 PM
#24
As far as cylinder heads are concerned, stock castings ported by a reputable shop like Lloyd Elliot or advanced inductions will out perform any out the box aftermarket heads.
Unless you're willing to spend the coin on aftermarket heads along with spending the money on having them ported I wouldn't waste your time. Even then on a non-exotic n/a hydraulic roller setup you won't see a huge different between properly ported stock castings and ported aftermarket heads.
Unless you're willing to spend the coin on aftermarket heads along with spending the money on having them ported I wouldn't waste your time. Even then on a non-exotic n/a hydraulic roller setup you won't see a huge different between properly ported stock castings and ported aftermarket heads.
08-19-2016, 05:52 PM
#25
On The Tree
Thread Starter
yea as i read more, it appears that if i use ARP studs with some billet caps that will be just fine. the warnings come out when people talk about going above 500rwhp and spraying 100-200 shot and high reving the hell out of it. i can assure you im not aiming for that. 450 to the back is about the absolute that i would want cause im afraid anything more it will be eating into the point of it being a daily driver while keeping it N/A.
08-19-2016, 07:13 PM
#26
yea as i read more, it appears that if i use ARP studs with some billet caps that will be just fine. the warnings come out when people talk about going above 500rwhp and spraying 100-200 shot and high reving the hell out of it. i can assure you im not aiming for that. 450 to the back is about the absolute that i would want cause im afraid anything more it will be eating into the point of it being a daily driver while keeping it N/A.
08-19-2016, 09:32 PM
#27
On The Tree
Thread Starter
yea i really appreciate the help yall have given me. i just wanted some help with the correct path and i have gotten that in spades. i had written off stroking it cause 90% of the threads that contain 383 info include people wanting 500+ to the wheels before spraying it, and the threads that just mention the stock 350 head porting, tuning, and caming seemed to be the DD types. through yalls help i learned i can infact DD a 383, and that doing so will actually help the reliability while adding more natural power when i do stomp on it cause someone dosent want to move out of the left lane and thinks passing them is a personal insult. but at the same time i can be just fine in stop-go traffic.
im still researching all the viable parts, reading up on different piston makes/models, rods, i think a scat crank will be fine, and thats the other thing im leveling out. i understand that not everything has to be that hand made item that costs out the ***, but im not going to buy that made by a 12yo in china stuff either. kinda like buying a cooler. you ask, im going camping, whats a good cooler "YETI BRAH!" well jesus, thats a couple grand and keeps ice for weeks, ill be gone for 2 days not out on an oil rig for a month. "THERES NO OTHER ONE BETTER DUDE" i understand that, but this $300 coleman keeps ice for 5 days and i cant see me needing a cooler longer than that. "PFFFT, SUIT YOURSELF DAWG". know what i mean? im probably rambling and none of that makes sense. but i dont need that $1000 extra part that can handle 600+ horses when im not going to exploit that need, ever.
im still researching all the viable parts, reading up on different piston makes/models, rods, i think a scat crank will be fine, and thats the other thing im leveling out. i understand that not everything has to be that hand made item that costs out the ***, but im not going to buy that made by a 12yo in china stuff either. kinda like buying a cooler. you ask, im going camping, whats a good cooler "YETI BRAH!" well jesus, thats a couple grand and keeps ice for weeks, ill be gone for 2 days not out on an oil rig for a month. "THERES NO OTHER ONE BETTER DUDE" i understand that, but this $300 coleman keeps ice for 5 days and i cant see me needing a cooler longer than that. "PFFFT, SUIT YOURSELF DAWG". know what i mean? im probably rambling and none of that makes sense. but i dont need that $1000 extra part that can handle 600+ horses when im not going to exploit that need, ever.
08-21-2016, 08:27 PM
#28
Village Troll 
iTrader: (2)
If you decide to stroke the engine make sure you do your homework on the shop you are going to use. Being in the area you are there should be many good ones. You want to do it local if possible. It is important you build a good relationship with your builder so you and he can ask and get answers from the many questions that are going to be generated.
BTW, on a side note the new Comm. Chief is a huge car nut and started out with a 30th Ann. Z28 and now has a ZR1.
BTW, on a side note the new Comm. Chief is a huge car nut and started out with a 30th Ann. Z28 and now has a ZR1.
08-22-2016, 06:50 AM
#29
BTW one other thing to watch out with machine shops in regards to the lt1 is alot of builders like to treat then like gen 1 sbc's. Unlike a gen 1 sbc the lt1 likes high compression and plenty of n/a guy's routentially go past 12:1 scr on 93 pump gas where as with alot of the gen 1 sbc that wouldn't fly.
08-22-2016, 10:36 AM
#30
........
410 gears, SLP exaust and intake, some sort of short throw unknown make, unknown suspension but I plan on getting new anyway but I know the car is lower than stock but the ride height is perfect so I have to figure out what they are. theyre old enough that whatever label was on them is long gone.
Stay away from anything spohn. BMR UMI MADMAN and MWC are all far better than Spohn.
the list goes further into what else ive had in mind, tubular k members, a-arms, upgraded brakes, subframes, exaust etc. expensive yes but over the next 2-3 years as I lock down a part firmly it will be bought and stored until D-Day. from the look/sound of it, ill be building a whole new front clip.
K-member's only benifit is weight and ease of changing the spark plugs, Upper a-arms are not worth the money.
the 10-bolt from what I read is worry some for dragging, but I understand the concept to make more power whatever its attached to needs to handle it. some ive read do just fine, others replace it immediately.
I just picked up a 4L80E and a Precision 76, so I'll let you know what the 10 bolt will handle.
id hate to sound picky, im just incredibly mechanically inclined and in being a former jarhead chopper mech its all about- attention to detail, aye sir?
410 gears, SLP exaust and intake, some sort of short throw unknown make, unknown suspension but I plan on getting new anyway but I know the car is lower than stock but the ride height is perfect so I have to figure out what they are. theyre old enough that whatever label was on them is long gone.
Stay away from anything spohn. BMR UMI MADMAN and MWC are all far better than Spohn.
the list goes further into what else ive had in mind, tubular k members, a-arms, upgraded brakes, subframes, exaust etc. expensive yes but over the next 2-3 years as I lock down a part firmly it will be bought and stored until D-Day. from the look/sound of it, ill be building a whole new front clip.
K-member's only benifit is weight and ease of changing the spark plugs, Upper a-arms are not worth the money.
the 10-bolt from what I read is worry some for dragging, but I understand the concept to make more power whatever its attached to needs to handle it. some ive read do just fine, others replace it immediately.
I just picked up a 4L80E and a Precision 76, so I'll let you know what the 10 bolt will handle.
id hate to sound picky, im just incredibly mechanically inclined and in being a former jarhead chopper mech its all about- attention to detail, aye sir?
08-22-2016, 10:39 AM
#31
. . .. . i had written off stroking it cause 90% of the threads that contain 383 info include people wanting 500+ to the wheels before spraying it, and the threads that just mention the stock 350 head porting, tuning, and caming seemed to be the DD types. through yalls help i learned i can infact DD a 383, and that doing so will actually help the reliability while adding more natural power when i do stomp on it cause someone dosent want to move out of the left lane and thinks passing them is a personal insult. but at the same time i can be just fine in stop-go traffic.
. . . . .words . . . .
. . . . .words . . . .
08-22-2016, 12:47 PM
#32
On The Tree
Thread Starter
SS RRR-
I plan to get my work done through a shop through Houston. around here I don't trust them with a sharp stick let alone my car. there is a speed shop I know of but all I ever see in their bays and lot are mustangs and lightning's so im not going to be going to them. itll be par for the course for this area for them to give me a horrible tune/work because im not driving a type of car they condone.
MYLTWON-
yea if I don't plan to run this on anything other than pump gas. anything higher than 93 needed to run whatever set up isn't something I wanna build. for this anyway.
FEX77K-
I was planning on going UMI for it all. ive seen quite a few threads here about suspension work and apparently UMI is the bandwagon to join. and I planned to replace the k-member for the fact of saving weight and ease of maintenance. I understand that it might not be worth the money but ill have a warm and fuzzy knowing I dropped a couple pounds, and that its one less thing I have to worry about. if it means that I have to save up for another month or 2 to get it (although they don't seem to be THAT expensive) then that's what ill do.
absolutely love the prowler. had to work on a ecm jammer pod faring/cover whatever they called it, in Iraq. they brought it to us since our shop also worked on blades for the helos and hell, it seems like it was made out of the same material. slap some 9309 and fiberglass on that bad boy, and out the door it went.
I plan to get my work done through a shop through Houston. around here I don't trust them with a sharp stick let alone my car. there is a speed shop I know of but all I ever see in their bays and lot are mustangs and lightning's so im not going to be going to them. itll be par for the course for this area for them to give me a horrible tune/work because im not driving a type of car they condone.
MYLTWON-
yea if I don't plan to run this on anything other than pump gas. anything higher than 93 needed to run whatever set up isn't something I wanna build. for this anyway.
FEX77K-
I was planning on going UMI for it all. ive seen quite a few threads here about suspension work and apparently UMI is the bandwagon to join. and I planned to replace the k-member for the fact of saving weight and ease of maintenance. I understand that it might not be worth the money but ill have a warm and fuzzy knowing I dropped a couple pounds, and that its one less thing I have to worry about. if it means that I have to save up for another month or 2 to get it (although they don't seem to be THAT expensive) then that's what ill do.
absolutely love the prowler. had to work on a ecm jammer pod faring/cover whatever they called it, in Iraq. they brought it to us since our shop also worked on blades for the helos and hell, it seems like it was made out of the same material. slap some 9309 and fiberglass on that bad boy, and out the door it went.