ShovelMan

Asking for a friend.

So to elaborate on the question, is it very involved like removing valve springs? And by that I mean do you have to turn the dampener ever so often so that something doesn't get fudged?


Or is it as simple as taking off some bolts? How difficult is it to do it with the engine still in car?

Flycaster1977

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech1.html

look under the how to section. Has a ton of info.
Removing heads isnt really difficult, just kinda involved. In a 4th gen, half the stuff is back under the cowl and hard to get to.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Banjo bolts can be a bitch. The bolts are not an exact size. I've used a wrench and vice grips as well as a hammer to break them loose. I've read where people have kept the reverse line on the heads and took them off together to avoid trying to loosen the banjo bolts. This can be risky because you can easily bend the line and it will not go on without a struggle. Also, passenger side 9/16 bolts which are behind the power steering pump fastening the accessory bracket to the head. It's best to use a curved box end wrench to get at least one of them. This means you must take the pump off the accessory bracket. You do not have to completely remove it. You just have to get the pump out of the way to get the two bolts out of the bracket which fasten to the head.

ShovelMan

where under "How To" ?

Dirty_Bird

Pull intake manifold, remove accessory bracket, steam pipe needs to be unbolted, unbolt the exhaust manifold, take rockers off and take pushrods out, unbolt heads and walla

JC316

iTrader: (1)

1. Disconnect the midpipe from the manifolds. Three 14 or 15mm nuts per side.

2. Remove spark plugs and wires

3. Remove all electrical connectors from the top of the engine.

4. Drain the coolant.

5. Remove the exhaust manifolds. 9/16ths bolts. Dont forget the EGR pipe.

6. Relieve pressure from the fuel line and disconnect the fuel lines.

7. Remove the intake. 12 9/16ths bolts. Two 1/2 inch bolts holding the EGR pipe to the intake.

8. Remove the valve cover. 3/8ths bolts.

9. Remove the push rods, keeping them in order. Loosen off the 5/8ths rocker arm bolts to accomplish this.

10. Remove the head bolts with a big damned breaker bar and pull the heads.

That is the gist of it, there are some other things like sensors that are bolted on to the intake and vacuum lines. Not going to lie, this job is a pain in the ******* ***, even for experienced mechanics.

shbox

There isn't a specific head guide on my site, but you can use this one:

http://www.afrashteh.com/guide/install.htm

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yeah an 18" socket wrench/breaker bar works well. One thing to really stress is use a quality socket to break head bolts loose. Do not use a 12-point socket.
When reinstalling heads make doubly sure to follow the torque sequence illustrated in any small block chevy manual. 65ft lbs works, or if you get ARP bolts, follow their torque specs for those specific bolts. Tighten them in the sequence in three stages. Do not use your old head bolts.

aroberson77

Also remember to put thread sealant on your head bolts. They do hit water passages

ShovelMan

Last major questions: I possibly have a ticking lifter (stuck?) - if I do, what would be a great replacement for a stock configuration?


And to remove the heads, do I have to do the whole finding TDC, using a spark plug adapter with a compressor so that the valves will not fall into the abyss? Thanks dudes

JC316

iTrader: (1)

Just a stock set of lifters will be fine. No, you don't have to do any of that. You're thinking about trying to change the valve springs, or the valve seals with the heads still on. Just pulling the head won't affect the valve.

ShovelMan

Have an idea of where I can find stock lifters? Rockauto has ACdelco listed but I am not sure of that $35 is for a single lifter or a set. $35 is a lot for just one.

atlantadan

Some people will say you can use the LSx lifters in an LT1, others say you need the specific LT1 lifters. Me personally - I've used LSx lifters from Skip White, GMPP #12499225 (also LS lifters), and Crower 66330-16's (Gen-1 SBC). The Crower ones were the only ones that were/are quiet and still running in my 383. I had a bad lifter right out of the box from Skip White, which is what pushed me to the GMPP units. One of those also was bad, so I got the Crowers upon advice from Karl Ellwein, who built the engine.

Also, despite what others may say, there is a definite pushrod cup-depth difference between the LSx lifters and the LTx lifters. I still have both at home and can take a pic that shows the difference.

ShovelMan

Should I be spending $200+ on lifters if I intend to keep it stock (not making the engine go higher than 350 CI)?

Can you snap a pic of the LS andLT lifters please?


(also my spacebar isn't working well).

Casey96SS

Do you think you just have a bad lifter, or are you having other issues with the motor? You do not need to pull the heads on these motors if it is only a lifter.

ShovelMan

What does it sound like?


I should add that the engine was warm when I filmed the video. Warm, hot to the touch, etc. I burned myself removing the serpentine belt.

Casey96SS

Hard to tell with my computer speakers, but seems like there is some ticking going on there. Might as well start with the easy stuff first.

How does the oil pressure look?

Any exhaust leaks?

Pull a valve cover and check out the rockers and springs.

You can check out the lifters by just pulling the intake. Not the easiest job, but easier than pulling the head. Probably a ton of troubleshooting threads on here if you search for ticking.

ShovelMan

20 during a warm idle, sometimes 40 when i take off from a stop (no not flooring it).

60 during cold idle, but after a few miles of driving it eases into the 20-40 range.


Yes, there's definitely an exhaust leak. I have a header whose front most flange on the driver's side slips in and that's where some noise originates when the engine is under load.

I will do that this weekend, post video (with HDR off on my phone, why do I even turn that on?)

Casey96SS

Sounds like your oil pressure is pretty good.

I've had pretty good luck with these header gaskets. Just have to crank the header bolts down a few times after the first few heat cycles. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1470

Try running the engine with the valve covers off. You will then be able to see if all the rockers are getting oil. You can make some temporary splash guards out of cardboard if oil is shooting past the heads.

How many miles are on the engine?

ShovelMan

Engine is from 1993 with 157,284 miles