Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Hey i was just wondering what cam with stock heads would be the best but still pass emmissions. I don't know much about the cams but i want to make the most power and still pass emmissions and will i have to replace the rockers, springs and pushrods?

Thanks,
Shawn

Vendetta

xe 224/230 i'd say. You could get it tuned to pass emissions.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

Question #2

Will i have to replace the valve springs, pushrods, or rockers?

Question #3

How much will this "conversion" cost

Question #4

How much power gain will i notice?

Vendetta

1. No to all three, but you might as well replace the springs anyway since you've got the covers off.
2. Around $250 for the cam, $100 for a tune, and labor if you aren't doing the work yourself.
3. Around 20-30 rwhp. You'll definitely notice it.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

I don't understand at all what the numbers mean. Could you explain to me or tell me what the stock numbers are? I would do the labor myself, but what all needs to be done? Can it be done in a day, say 10 hours? Is this a better investment than headers, a ported intake manifold, BBk throttle body or anything else for $300? Last question my engine has 60k so if i dont replace all the stock springs and such will it have any ill effects? I plan on replacing my heads in the next year or so.

Vendetta

You should absolutely do a full exhaust first, or you'll notice little power gain from a cam. And replacing springs can only help durability, if the older single coil springs take a **** on you you're in huge trouble.

John95Z28

Do you mean what do the "xe 224/230" numbers mean? It's a model name of a camshaft made by comp cams. The cc305 and cc306 are other common aftermarket cams, so people on the board just call them by name. The manufacturers website has detailed lift / duration specs if you're interested.

Installuniversity.com is a good place to look for "what all needs to be done" directions for lots of common installs. You should be able to pull of a cam swap in a day. Yes, I think the cam would be a better return on investment than the ported intake, TB or headers, although headers would be a good idea as well (to get the most from the cam, as stated above).

Jordan57

The cam swap is simple and u will learn so much about your car. It will probably take a while for u to do the first time, but well worth the time. Just port your throttle body yourself instead of buying one. Dremel=speed

94Formula/TA

A ton of people have made great power numbers with the stock manifolds. The main restriction in most factory engines including the lt1 is the cam. You should get a very noticeable gain from swapping cams.

Rich

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

I just read up on replacing the cam. It looks like a pretty big project. Will it make my car any louder or idle different? i kinda like the "my car is about to stall out" sound.

Jordan57

It will make it lope at idle and depending on which cam u pick it will rumble very nicely. Cams cut on a 112 LSA will idle rougher and sound meaner than those on a 114 and up...likewhise a 110 LSA would sound plain raw. It should be noted that a 110 is harder to tune and pass emissions with than a 112 which is harder than a 114. As far as it being a big project...it's not that bad. I also did some reading up on it and one site said to pull the heads...wtf? And another said the intake didn't need to come off? WTF? So I got my instructions from....myself and a couple knowledgable people here. To remove the cam you simply remove you Air intake system (everything from the t/b forward). Then drain your coolant and remove your fans and radiator and condenser...you will have to get your AC condenser recharged. There will be numerous hard lines so be patient and drop it out through the bottom. Then using the belt tensioner, remove the serpentine belt and alternator. Then pull the waterpump, opti, and crank pulley after removing the crank bolt. Remove the crank hub and the timing cover. Going back to the top of the motor...remove the valve covers then start removing all electrical and vaccuum connections to intake...labeling them is smart. Then remove the intake...ps dont forget the egr valve at the rear of the intake. Unbolt the rockers and remove them and the pushrods and make sure you keep track of which ones went where if you plan to reuse them. Then remove the lifters. Remove the timing chain bolts and remove timing chain and sprockets. Then remove the cam plate...two torx bolts and then you can thread three bolts into the cam and remove it. See that wasn't so hard?

Jordan57

Actually...while the cam plays a big role in power production it isn't the limiting factor on LT1 engines. It's all in the heads. With decent heads an LT1 makes great power...however through stock heads the best you can ever hope to have is 370ish. You will notice a gain however...just not as much as you would if you had all the bolt ons....LT's, CAI, Ported t/b, descreened MAF...etc.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

So is this cam ok?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ADME:B:BN:MT:1

Please don't bid on it

I don't have to replace any of the poshrods, lifters, or springs right?

I will be tagged for 2 years before i do this so emmissions won't matter too much. As for getting it tuned, can i send out my PCM for that or will a shop have to do it? Also is there anything else i shoudl do while i have the engine apart? I plan on adding a 160 degree thermostat, changing all the gaskets, and maybe changing the spark plugs.

With the mods i have will i need to change anything, and how much of a change will i see (enisguy said 20-30rwhp)

Jet Stage 2 module
3 1/2" cat-back exhaust
throttle body air foil
unorthodox under drive pulleys
Holley fuel pump
10 gallon fuel cell
Cold air intake

And not that it matters but i will have installed 17x11 ZR1's with 315s

RacinLT1

IMO changing the springs is well worth it,with aftermarket cams. with the new cam,you will have a wider powerband,the stock springs can only take so much,so might as well swap them out with a fresh set,and not worry about valve float.

Shawn MacAnanny

iTrader: (12)

If i replace the heads in the next year or so will it matter? Well really until christmas becuase i coulg get a nice set of heads for christmass. My car only has 60k on it so i figured the springs could hold up a little longer.

Vendetta

Well, whatever cam you swap in will have significantly more lift than your stock cam, which will create a lot more stress on your single coil springs. It'd be a lot safer and easier to just spend a few extra dollars and have the added insurance in strength. It'd be very wise to change them while swapping the cam.

Don't even think about a cam until you've done a full exhaust. Your car will be completely choked trying to breathe with a cam through stock manifolds and a stock catback. You'll see very little power gains through the stock exhaust.

biltLT1

With that cam, you will absolutely HAVE to change the springs. There is no question about it. I am running a cc305, which is a little bit smaller that that. Before I did my cam install, I had a professional do a coilbind test on my factory springs to see if they would hold up. They didn't. With the increased lift of the bigger cam, the spring has to compress further. The coils on the stock springs will meet (aka. coilbind). When this happens, the coils will slam into each other and more than likely break and cause you to drop a valve into your motor and destroy the engine.

To make a long story short, get some better springs, your factory ones won't cut it.

94Formula/TA

Says who? Where is your sorce? I have seen several people make in the 340-350rwhp with stock manifolds. If I had to do it again I would have definitely bought a $250 cam before a $700 set of headers. Once again the stock manifolds are not the restriction in the lt1 from the factory. It is the internal components such as the cam that are holding you back from making power.

And yes stock springs will have no chance of holding up to that big of a cam. Plus your rockers from the factory are stamped and have no rolling parts on them. They create a lot of friction and will kill some power. I would suggest to at least upgrade to roller tip rockers. If you want I have a set of comp magnums 1.6 roller tipped rockers I would sell you for $100 plus shipping.

Rich

Compstall

iTrader: (5)

My Hotcam will be in before I get headers. Hope to get it done in the next month or so. Headers won't be purchased 'till next year. Think I'll do ok? I'm at the 300 rwhp mark right now....