regorih383

iTrader: (21)

Guys I realy need your help, so if you could take a moment and read all the information below to better help you give me some feedback on what I could do it would realy help me since at the end of my rope


Let me start off by giving you some background information on what went into my build. Last year I finished my 383 with stock heads and everything was working fine, the only problem I had with the motor was that I wasent getting any oil coming out of the RR while the car was on. I had the car dyno tuned and it saw 4 pulls all the way to 7000rpms with no problem. Let me go ahead and mention that the motor and PCM came off a 95 "OBD1" LT1 and I put everthing into a 96 "OBD2" Shell. The 96 LT1 was originaly a auto but I changed it to a 6-speed, so at this point im using the OBD1 PCM with the wireing harness of the OBD2. The person that tuned my car told me that I would be fine running the OBD1 PCM with the 96 Shell. So back to my story, a week later im on the highway and the car shuts off after I get on it, I go ahead and pull over to turn the car on and when it turns on it feels like if had spun a bearing, so at this point im like "****, it spun a bearing". I get the car home and with in a month I have the car apart, I send the short block to a shop to be torn down and see what was broken, I also go ahead and sell the stock heads and get some AFRs. Two weeks later I get a call from the shop telling that the motor is torn down and there isent anything wrong with it, and then three months later I get a call from the guy I sold the heads to telling me that they are working perfectly. So now it hits me that there wasent anything wrong with the motor when it mest up So what could have caused the motor to shut off and not want to stay on SO this past month I get the motor back in the car with the new heads and everything, I go to start the car and its doing the same **** it did when I though it had spun a bearing. At this poingt im just pissed off I know its not the motor because it was built by HPE, It has new heads, its not the fuel pump because I checked it and im covered in gas. The car will turn on for like 1 second but, wont stay on. The only other thing that its doing is draning the battery while I try to star her up and the + post on the battery gets really hot.
Is there a possibility that it could be my PCM??? thansk guys.


Edit: Below is the list you guys have given me to check.
CHECK:
-MAF
-IGNITION CONTROL MODULE AND COIL
-PLUGS
-MAKE SURE THE RIGHT WIRE GOES TO THE RIGHT PLUG FORM OPTI.

omaha stylee

im kinda lost.......... does the engine turn over but not fire???? or is it starting up completely and shutting off?

93turboLT1

That sounds similar to my problem i had a while back, that i thought was my opti, but ended up being my ignition control module. My car would run great then just die and wouldn't start. then an 1 hour or two later it would start. If you have a buddy or anyone with an LT1, just swap your coil/module setup with them. Thats what i did and it turned out to be it. And also are you wasn't a new opti with the new motor, or the same. But first things first, check for spark at the coil and plugs. If your not then its either the module or opti.

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for helping out. Yes, the motor does turn over and will want to start up but dosent not. When it does start up it hits 1200rpms and then shut off.

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

Thanks for the help. It still has the same opti from before but, I did replace the cap and rotor for a new set. Is the ignition control module the little thing that looks like a small amp? How can I check for spark at the coil and plugs?

Thanks guys, keep those ideas coming and ill check them out..

pontiacfireTAWS6

bad MAF? try unplugging the MAF, see what happens. Check in the vasinity of the air intake and throttle body. Is the check engine light on? it is no doubt a computer problem.

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

Thanks,

Yes, the check engine light is on. Ill check the Maf too. Thanks guys, any ideas that you have I would love to hear........like I said before im willing to try anything because I dont have tons of money to have a shop fix my problem im a student and need to save what I have.

omaha stylee

I am a student as well...... i do all my own work, i would say hook up a scanner and check out the SES that may help a whole bunch or may not tell u a damn thing depending on what code ur throwing

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

Thanks Omaha. I know what you mean by being a student and doing all the work yourself. Last year I had an electrical problem that cost me $600 to fix because the guy took his sweet time fixing it ($75hr.) Thats why I want to fix this myself even if it takes me a week or three, the last thing I want to do is spend $1000 on something simple I could have done!

96blkform

iTrader: (2)

A friend of mine had a similar problem it sounds. Here is his thread http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...=355046&page=2 It ended up being the coil, so maybe try that.

RealQuick

iTrader: (14)

If you can pull the code then it will tell you whats wrong. pepboys sells automotive scaners for $75, and autozone will scan for fre if you can get the car down to them (which it sounds like you cant).

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

Thanks 96blkform


I just want to say thanks to everyone for your feedback!!! Keep it coming because tommrow I have the day off and ill be checking everything all of you have mentioned!!!

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

just got back from working on the car and still nothing!!!!! I even put a different PCM to see if I had a bad PCM but, nothing. Need more ideas guys! please.... I have a MSD 6 box....how can I test the box??

97M6Formula

iTrader: (6)

ok this has happened to me 3 times yes 3.... Soi i floor then car then bam shuts off.. I blew my opti all 3 times. The reluctor wheel shttered twice. They dont like high rpms. I would pull the opti and shake it. If you can hear **** in there you did the same thing. I would put money on the opti if you are getting fuel. Here is a way to test. Take the coil wire and put it by the stud its held onto the head with. If it arcs the your coil is good. if its good then pull a wire off a spark plug and do the same thing. No arc? Bad opti. If it does spark well then its time to do more diagnosing

regorih383

iTrader: (21)

Thanks! I guess ill cheek back after I take that bitch apart~

slow96z

iTrader: (12)

I'm with 97, I've destroyed 3 as well, but mine were from the rotor exploding. I just went with a Delteq and have not had any problem since.

On the battery post getting hot, I would look at the cable and terminal and see if they're coroded. If they are that would cause the current to heat up the wire and termianl. I don't think this would have anything to do with your current issue, but I would check it as well.

97M6Formula

iTrader: (6)

in case anyone wants to know im on my 6th opti... And my car is a 97 which mean i have destroyed 5 vented ones I have bad luck