How to Fix Stall Wall?
12-18-2006, 12:52 PM
#1
How to Fix Stall Wall? I'm running into the stall wall issue with my car, just what exactly I had to do to fix the stuff as far as tuning goes?
I do a burnout in my car on the street or at the track and then try to launch it the car will refuse to shift into 2nd until I let off. I will let off and resume throttle but then the transmission will lock out either 1st or 2nd gear until I turn off the car and wait a min then everything will work perfect again.
it never did this until I put in the convertor, and was there on my original trans build and still here with the new one, so I'm pretty sure it's stall wall.
I do a burnout in my car on the street or at the track and then try to launch it the car will refuse to shift into 2nd until I let off. I will let off and resume throttle but then the transmission will lock out either 1st or 2nd gear until I turn off the car and wait a min then everything will work perfect again.
it never did this until I put in the convertor, and was there on my original trans build and still here with the new one, so I'm pretty sure it's stall wall.
Last edited by myltwon; 12-18-2006 at 01:02 PM.
12-18-2006, 01:07 PM
#2
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most tuners can fix it, if you have tuning software and like to poke around in there yourself, PM me and I will let you in on a possible fix, it worked for me but hasn't worked for others so I won't post it in general public locations...
12-18-2006, 01:07 PM
#3
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Not sure what stall wall is but..... It sounds like you need to move around your shift points and the mph with a tunning software like LT1-Edit. Usally happens when you get a new convertor or cam etc......
12-18-2006, 01:20 PM
#4
Originally Posted by Ls1Bait
Not sure what stall wall is but..... It sounds like you need to move around your shift points and the mph with a tunning software like LT1-Edit. Usally happens when you get a new convertor or cam etc......
12-18-2006, 01:23 PM
#5
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Most people don't know much about the stall wall and just think if they lower the shiftpoints they will be fine but then you end up going a little slower since you shift a little too early for your combo.This is very close to what needs to be done but not completely. The stall wall is the ODB-I computer's inability to accuratly calculate the difference in road speed and engine RPM given its basic parameters and then throws the car into limp mode until you shut it down...
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12-18-2006, 01:24 PM
#6
Originally Posted by 1SlowFormula
Most people don't know much about the stall wall and just think if they lower the shiftpoints they will be fine but then you end up going a little slower since you shift a little too early for your combo.This is very close to what needs to be done but not completely. The stall wall is the ODB-I computer's inability to accuratly calculate the difference in road speed and engine RPM given its basic parameters and then throws the car into limp mode until you shut it down...
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12-18-2006, 03:22 PM
#11
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What I do works on some but not others and it has a couple drawbacks, I have no problem telling people about it but I also point out why it happens, and the negative effects of the modification... If you guys really want me to post it up I am sure there are a bunch of pro tuner/vendors out there going to be pissed, and admins/mods might not like that...
12-18-2006, 03:26 PM
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I could understand the 'hurt' feelings if the tuning world of the LT1 based PCM was being supported but it's not so who cares.
There have been many 'fixes' but none of them work everytime from what I can tell.
There have been many 'fixes' but none of them work everytime from what I can tell.
12-18-2006, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Shon Herron
this is alot of fun!! too bad there was no fix for it when I did the A3 switch.
post up info if you know where it is on TC, alot of people would appreciate it.
post up info if you know where it is on TC, alot of people would appreciate it.
I hear ya, There wasnt a fix when I hit this problem either. It was only go obd2 which most people didnt want to do at the time or go m6. I chose the m6 swap.
12-18-2006, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 1SlowFormula
What I do works on some but not others and it has a couple drawbacks, I have no problem telling people about it but I also point out why it happens, and the negative effects of the modification... If you guys really want me to post it up I am sure there are a bunch of pro tuner/vendors out there going to be pissed, and admins/mods might not like that...
a lot of tuners do editing to the actual hard code. One of the drawbacks is the loss of 2-1 downshifts...
THere's already a tip given in a recent thread about helping eliminate it. PM me if you want and I can help a tad more..
12-18-2006, 04:55 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Shon Herron
I could understand the 'hurt' feelings if the tuning world of the LT1 based PCM was being supported but it's not so who cares.
There have been many 'fixes' but none of them work everytime from what I can tell.
There have been many 'fixes' but none of them work everytime from what I can tell.
12-18-2006, 05:10 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by buffman
a lot of tuners do editing to the actual hard code. One of the drawbacks is the loss of 2-1 downshifts...
THere's already a tip given in a recent thread about helping eliminate it. PM me if you want and I can help a tad more..
THere's already a tip given in a recent thread about helping eliminate it. PM me if you want and I can help a tad more..
12-18-2006, 05:21 PM
#17
thanks for all the replies everyone
I received this from another forum as well
I received this from another forum as well
Go to the Constant tables and scroll down to the VSS rpm setting. Slap it up to about 4000 rpm and that should solve the problem. If not get with me and I can give you some other numbers for the tranny shift table if I can remember them off the top of my head since my tunercat won't open without a password now.