355 Piston questions
12-24-2006, 02:19 AM
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355 build questions Would a -5cc flattop piston be good for a N/A 355 build.
I was thinking about the mahle pistons assembly 4.030 bore 3.480 stroke 5.7 rod 10.6.1 compression -5cc dome. Would this work as a good set-up for an N/A 355 with P&P stock head casting. the pistons are forged. or would the CR be to high
Also what can the stock crank handle I was thinking about spinning the motor to about 6700rpm Also should i upgrade the oil pump during this.
I was thinking about the mahle pistons assembly 4.030 bore 3.480 stroke 5.7 rod 10.6.1 compression -5cc dome. Would this work as a good set-up for an N/A 355 with P&P stock head casting. the pistons are forged. or would the CR be to high
Also what can the stock crank handle I was thinking about spinning the motor to about 6700rpm Also should i upgrade the oil pump during this.
Last edited by 95FbFormula; 12-24-2006 at 04:33 AM.
12-24-2006, 09:39 AM
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You should be okay with those pistons I have the same ones on my LE3 355 but with the 6" rod. I've seen the stock LT1 cranks handle 550HP on N/A cars it's high RPM's that kill the crank. One thing I would recomend for you is to put ARP studs on the main caps and you should be good to go.
12-24-2006, 10:13 AM
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I used the SRP forged -5cc flat tops on my 355. @ .0 deck mine is @ 11.4:1
Stock Ported LE stage 1.5's and Eagle 5.7 rods.
A new mellings High volume pump runs about 25 bucks from CNC-motorsports.com and i'd get the ARP pump drive shaft. Get's rid of the factory plastic junk down there and why not.....$25, money well spent!
Stock Ported LE stage 1.5's and Eagle 5.7 rods.
A new mellings High volume pump runs about 25 bucks from CNC-motorsports.com and i'd get the ARP pump drive shaft. Get's rid of the factory plastic junk down there and why not.....$25, money well spent!
12-24-2006, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevydomination
You should be okay with those pistons I have the same ones on my LE3 355 but with the 6" rod. I've seen the stock LT1 cranks handle 550HP on N/A cars it's high RPM's that kill the crank. One thing I would recomend for you is to put ARP studs on the main caps and you should be good to go.
12-24-2006, 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 95FbFormula
would it be safe for me to go with a 6" rod or even worth it what advanteges are there. I would like to run around an 11.1 CR. Also dont I have to have the main align honed to use main studs??
Longer rod makes a lighter piston but I'm no engineer to explain what you would want that. I guess maybe you're able to run more rod for less weight total than more piston. 11:1 is a good static compression ratio to run but you might wanna look at Pat Kelley's dynamic compression ratio calculator because dynamic compression is actually a little more important than the SCR. Run a Google or Yahoo! search on the DCR and you can find tons of reading. I think a DCR less than 9:1 is the realm for pump gas. You'll need lots of info like your cam card for that one. Also, you will only need an align bore on the mains if you buy some new caps. Reusing your crank with your current main caps shouldn't require any machine work. The studs are direct replacement for the main bolts.
12-24-2006, 05:03 PM
#6
6'' Rod would be 'ok'. If you plan on spraying a good size shot of Nitrous or any power adder for that matter, the piston is going to have a lot less material then if you went with shorter rod.
A shorter rod will put more material on the piston, but will be heavier.
Tony.
A shorter rod will put more material on the piston, but will be heavier.
Tony.
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12-24-2006, 11:11 PM
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Well im am between my first 1s stated or
SRP Forged Piston Set -5cc Valve Reliefs 4.030" bore x 3.48" stroke, for 5.70" Rod
Pretty much both the same so i guess either would be fine.
SRP Forged Piston Set -5cc Valve Reliefs 4.030" bore x 3.48" stroke, for 5.70" Rod
Pretty much both the same so i guess either would be fine.
thx for the advice 
