Z 2 8

I was thinking about getting some RR's for my car. I have a 94 A4 Z28. It seems like the popular kind is 1.6. Would that be a good choice and what all is involved in doing this?

I want to keep my car a daily driver if anyone is curious. I have bolt ons right now. Lt headers, y-pipe, CAI, tune.

Thanks!

RaM AiR 97

iTrader: (1)

I d go with cc pro magnum RRs they are as light weight as alumminum but you get the benifits of steel. I have heard many people do it diffrent ways as to adjusting the valves when it comes to replacing RR. If nobody explains to you will tell you one way. Just give me a break I am bearly going to work when i get a chance at work will write you

hi officer

to save both of you some trouble... unless you know an better way. it took me just about two hours the first time i replaced rr's.



Adjust the valve rocker arm nuts until all of the lash is gone.

1. Turn the crankshaft until the cast arrow on the crankshaft balancer hub is at 12 o'clock and the number 1 cylinder is in the firing position (top dead center).
2. Watch the number 1 cylinder valves as the crankshaft balancer hub approaches 12 o'clock. If a valve moves as the arrow moves into position, the engine is in the number 6 firing position. If this happens, turn the crankshaft one more revolution in order to reach the number 1 cylinder firing position.
3. With the engine in the number 1 firing position, adjust the exhaust valves 1,3,4,8 and the intake valves 1,2,5,7.
• Back off the valve rocker arm nut until the lash is felt in the valve pushrod.
• Tighten the valve rocker arm nut until all the lash is removed.
• Zero lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more movement.
• When all free play is gone, tighten the valve rocker arm nut 1 additional turn (360 degrees).
4. Turn the crankshaft 1 revolution until the hub arrow is at 12 o'clock. This is the number 6 firing position.
5. Adjust the exhaust valves 2,5,6,7 and the intake valves 3,4,6,8.
• Back off the valve rocker arm nut until the lash is felt in the valve pushrod.
• Tighten the valve rocker arm nut until all the lash is removed.
• Zero lash can be felt by moving the valve pushrod up and down between your thumb and forefinger until there is no more movement.
• When all free play is gone, tighten the valve rocker arm nut 1 additional turn (360 degrees).

buffman

iTrader: (9)

a shop thinks it's funny to charge like 7hrs of labor for something like this too Few guys on the impala forum have paid shops to do it, and I'm serious that's how many hrs of labor they were charged. Easy enough to do with a few friends

RobZ28

I was going to get mine done at a shop but they were going to charge 500 bucks( just labor).I lucked out because my friend as a gambling problem and he needed money( he lost it all) and ended up putting the new ones in for me. http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#adjust_valves This site should help.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Unless I am missing something I see nothing mentioning spring swap.

People have gotten by with out doing them but thats the wrong way of doing it, Unless you had a nicely matched set of spring you could be heading into dangerous waters.

Upgrade the springs while your at it, do something that will match well with an eventual cam upgrade, make the decision to go SA or NSA, if you go NSA get comp cam 918's, more the you will ever need.

Doing the springs probably be the most labor intensive but its going to save you a crap load of headaches, mind you I didnt even ask the milage on the current ones.

obe1 95Z28

Another vote for changing the springs. A friend of mine broke the ends off 2 push rods after 10K miles with only changing the RR's and not the springs. Change the valve seals while you're at it.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Yea Fel Pro Vitron seals are not too expensive and easy to do. For save measure bring the piston to TDC for that cyl so that if the valve fell it wouldnt go too far.