Connecting Rods
03-12-2007, 11:57 PM
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Connecting Rods I just dropped my block of to get machined and assembled but I am wondering what rods to use. I was thinking of going with Scat forged 6" I beams. Has anyone ever had any experience with them they seem to be better and lighter then eagle and i don't really want to run H-beam.
03-13-2007, 02:44 AM
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stock crank Mahle pistons. looking for 400 RWHP or close to it. Strickly N/A though no Nitrous or boost. I will most likely end up going with the scat.
03-13-2007, 03:07 AM
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You should have Pink rods in yours, and they should handle around 450 from what I understand.
Make sure to get everything balanced. You won't regret spending the extra few bucks.
Make sure to get everything balanced. You won't regret spending the extra few bucks.
03-13-2007, 03:09 AM
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Yes every thing is getting balanced I just wanted to go with the forged rods for extra insurance in Summit it says they are rated to 750hp so they should do the job.
03-13-2007, 11:39 AM
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Well I see why he doesn't want to run the h-beams. He wants to make his rotating assembly as light as possible. Since he won't be using a power adder he doesn't need h-beams, using I-beams will save you a considerable amount of weight. (Rotating Mass) I guess that's why he's using I-beams.
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03-13-2007, 11:47 AM
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The Scat I-beams have been as strong as the H-beams. Have used them in a few boat engines and going into my LTx right now. Just make sure it is the 7/16 bolt and your all set. The other good thing is the smaller profile is nice for strokers. Scat did a great job on making a very good rod for a GREAT price.
Thats just my 2cents.
Thats just my 2cents.
03-13-2007, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedDensityZ
Well I see why he doesn't want to run the h-beams. He wants to make his rotating assembly as light as possible. Since he won't be using a power adder he doesn't need h-beams, using I-beams will save you a considerable amount of weight. (Rotating Mass) I guess that's why he's using I-beams.
Thx also for the input guys
03-13-2007, 06:10 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Formula350
You should have Pink rods in yours, and they should handle around 450 from what I understand.
Make sure to get everything balanced. You won't regret spending the extra few bucks.
Make sure to get everything balanced. You won't regret spending the extra few bucks.
My current shortblock has pinks in it and I was frankly disappointed to find them, they are holding up but I would not reuse them on a build. Probably cost $160 to rebuild tham and they are still straight out of 1970.
IMO a 6" Scat rod is a good idea, lighter piston due to the 6" rod makes life easier on the rods too.
03-13-2007, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
400rwhp is well over 450crank HP.
My current shortblock has pinks in it and I was frankly disappointed to find them, they are holding up but I would not reuse them on a build. Probably cost $160 to rebuild tham and they are still straight out of 1970.
IMO a 6" Scat rod is a good idea, lighter piston due to the 6" rod makes life easier on the rods too.
My current shortblock has pinks in it and I was frankly disappointed to find them, they are holding up but I would not reuse them on a build. Probably cost $160 to rebuild tham and they are still straight out of 1970.
IMO a 6" Scat rod is a good idea, lighter piston due to the 6" rod makes life easier on the rods too.
03-13-2007, 10:48 PM
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A true pink rod that has gone through shot peen, magnifluxed, resized, and arp bolts will handle a crap loud of power and i have used in many good horsepowered cars... i never reuse a stock lt1 rod or a piston on a rebuild..
03-13-2007, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
IMO the rod angle, dwell etc. are all overrated at least for our level of play. The light piston is the real tangible benifit.
