so im taking off my intake manifold
#1
so im taking off my intake manifold
because im tired of the gasket being leaky (or atleast thats what i think it is), anything i should know about this operation or is it pretty much straightforward? anything i should do upgrade-wise. im planning on cleaning it out because im sure its filthy.
any tips, hints?
any tips, hints?
#2
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I would make sure you have a fuel line disconnect tool on hand and make sure to bleed the pressure from there and remove the gas cap. Other than that it is basic hand tools and simple R&R.
Might pressure wash the top of the motor first just so as you lift the intake there is no dirt to fall into the lifter valley.
Might pressure wash the top of the motor first just so as you lift the intake there is no dirt to fall into the lifter valley.
#3
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I'd make damn sure when you put the intake back on you place it straight down and torque to specs, and definitely wait 24 hours for the sealant to cure before you fire it up. You'll be glad you did.
#4
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Read this article:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4013/ol.html
It is very straightforward. As previously mentioned, wait no less than 24 hours for the sealant to cure.
Best of luck.
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/4013/ol.html
It is very straightforward. As previously mentioned, wait no less than 24 hours for the sealant to cure.
Best of luck.
#5
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I just did this over the winter. Leak is fixed. It was the first time I did anything like that and it was not technically complicated.
Here is what I can think of and some links that I found useful:
- You'll need that fuel line disconnector, as previously mentioned. I think that's about the only specialized tool I needed to buy.
- Make sure that you keep the bolts in order, so that you put them back in the same places, since they're not all the same.
- Do two passes on torquing down the bolts, ending up at a final 35 ft-lbs. There is a specific order for tightening them too. I can dig it out if you need, but might be in one of the links I include at the bottom.
- Make sure you stuff some clean paper towels down the intake ports so that no gunk falls into them, while you're messing around with the manifold off.
- Clean clean clean
- A logical mod to do while doing this is the Throttle Body coolant bypass. Easy thing to do while you're doing this.
- Don't skimp on the RTV. I used the copper.
- I removed the fuel rail before taking the intake off. Some say you don't need to, but I'd do it again. It can be a little tricky working it off around the wiring harness, but a key I found was making sure the harness is unclipped from its hold on the passenger side fender.
- I also took the opportunity to open up the valve covers and replace the gaskets there and clean things up around them and change my plugs. It is a little easier with the valve covers off.
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?p=90565 - Great picture here
http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp - Excellent step-by-step
That's all that comes to mind at the moment. Good luck!
Here is what I can think of and some links that I found useful:
- You'll need that fuel line disconnector, as previously mentioned. I think that's about the only specialized tool I needed to buy.
- Make sure that you keep the bolts in order, so that you put them back in the same places, since they're not all the same.
- Do two passes on torquing down the bolts, ending up at a final 35 ft-lbs. There is a specific order for tightening them too. I can dig it out if you need, but might be in one of the links I include at the bottom.
- Make sure you stuff some clean paper towels down the intake ports so that no gunk falls into them, while you're messing around with the manifold off.
- Clean clean clean
- A logical mod to do while doing this is the Throttle Body coolant bypass. Easy thing to do while you're doing this.
- Don't skimp on the RTV. I used the copper.
- I removed the fuel rail before taking the intake off. Some say you don't need to, but I'd do it again. It can be a little tricky working it off around the wiring harness, but a key I found was making sure the harness is unclipped from its hold on the passenger side fender.
- I also took the opportunity to open up the valve covers and replace the gaskets there and clean things up around them and change my plugs. It is a little easier with the valve covers off.
http://www.f-body.com/forum/showthread.php?p=90565 - Great picture here
http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp - Excellent step-by-step
That's all that comes to mind at the moment. Good luck!
#7
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take a center punch and hammer and make about 20 small dents in the intake and block where the rtv goes. It will give the rtv some where to go in stead of squeezing it out when you tighten it. I did this and no leaks going on five years now.
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#9
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i left my fuel rails connected to the lines, since i didnt have the disconnect tool... seems like it could have been easier to disconnect them than to deal with the harness, but i didnt have the time to get the tools, haha...
#12
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Originally Posted by Irish350
haha.. id ask how you did it with the needle nose, but i figure id break something.
#13
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haha.. wasnt easy to take off the rails with the harness in the way either.. maybe ill disconnect em now so my fuel rails dont have to take up my drivers side wheel well for the next month
#14
If you feel that your manifold is not malfunctioning, it's wise to replace it immediately before further damage will occur. My jeep used to have a problem with its Jeep exhaust manifold that weakens the performance of the exhaust system. I took it to the mechanic and told me to replace it. And so I did.