Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I didn't grab too many since I just took them for my A4 to M6 swap post, but I figured I'd post them up for you guys too.

The motor is as follows, .30 over block decked and align honed, ARP main studs, SRP 11.1:1 compression forged pistons (probably close to 12:1 with the decked block, shaved heads and thinner head gaskets), Stock turned crank, stock rods with APR bolts, CC306 cam, Comp R lifters, 1.6 Pro Mag rockers, Cloyes true double roller timing chain, Melling oil pump 10% more volume than stock (runs about 80 psi cold and 65-70 psi when warm), Moroso 7 quart pan, Older LE3s, BBK 58mm throttle body, Holley 36# injectors, and probably some more here and there but you get the idea.

I tore the motor down because I set the rings too tight and they didn't seat right. I was battling some missing issues when the motor first went together which might have led to the rings not seating properly. But everything looks great and I'm throwing some new rod bearings at it since the motor is apart and obvioously the new rings. I also got some GM Impalla head gaskets, and felpro intake gaskets, felpro MS95585 header gaskets, and finally APR 100-1109 header bolts (they have a 5/16" head )

Heres the pics and I'll have a bunch more next weekend when it goes back together....







I'd also like to say that I converted my car over to the '93 style PCV system and have zero oil going into the intake or throttle body. My pistons have a little carbon buildup on them, but my tune is really rich right now. When it gets put back together and everything is broke in I'm taking it up to get a dyno tune done and see what the motor puts down. Whats your guess though?

Comments or suggestions are welcome

Bad_tx_Z28

iTrader: (3)

looking good...should of painted the block...lol. I wish i had the time and the money to do my motor right now....but looking good...if you dont mind me asking im curiouse about the 93 pcv system...what did you do?

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I think its the '93 style PCV, instead of coming into the front of the intake from the PCV, the hose does a 180* right back into the intake. I'll take some pics of it this weekend to show you better. I don't know if the idea is any better, but it cleanes up the engine a little bit.

I know I should have painted the engine the first time around, but I got ancy and just threw it together. I'm painting it this time around though, just have to clean it up a little and make it look pretty

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

im just wondering how did the rings not seat correcty? and how did you diagnose that?

ive never heard of that problem ever...rings are seated after about 30 seconds run time...once they are through 2 heat sysle its done they are as they will be

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

It was burning oil but not through the intake, rings were set too tight, my stupid mistake. And it takes more than 2 heat cycles and 30 seconds of run time IMHO, you may be right, but my enging builder suggested that I made pulls accelerating progressively harder and letting the motor slow the car back down, example...

in 3rd gear do a 30% throttle pull to 4500 rpms then slow down with the motor, then a 40% pull to 5000 rpms then let the motor slow you back down, then a 50% pull to 5500, let the motor slow you down then do a couple WOT pulls to redline and let the motor slow you back down. Its not exactly what he told me but you get the idea.

Either way the motor is apart and getting new rings, head and intake gaskets, the moroso 7 quart pan, and a few odds and ends to button it back up. Then the 6 speed swap was a good time to yank the motor and make my life easier to mount the master and cut the holes and clean and paint the underside of my car. It might sound like way more work than what its worth, but its how I did it. I'll have the car up and running memorial day weekend so I have 3 days to get the clutch, motor, and gears broke in

And sorry if I sounded like I was being a dick, I really wasn't trying to be one

Bad_tx_Z28

iTrader: (3)

let me know how that conversions goes...im really thinking about doing it on my Z

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Black99ta and me both have post in the manual section about our swaps if you want to check it out

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

Sorry guys, no pics, but the motor is back under the car and I have almost everything hooked back up. There was a little confusion between my brother and me and I installed my clutch disk backwards, but its not a big deal. But the reason that I updated this post is to tell everyone that the moroso oil pan fits perfect. Its like it was designed for these cars. The bottom of the pan is about 1/8-1/4" above the stock k-member, I have enough room to run the taller oil filter and my hooker LTs clear everywhere. I can reach my hand right up to the filter and pull it off no problem. I'll take some pics to show the clearences this weekend. I would have done this before, but my wife took the camera with her when she left my parents.

So basically if you don't need a low oil sensor and want a bigger, more affordable oil pan, get the 7 quart moroso for the '86 and up 1 peice rear main. It fits great even with the stock k-member

zlover129

iTrader: (10)

This can happen, and does. Like he said, the rings were set too tight so they never properly sealed. And cylinder pressure is what seats the rings...not heat cycling. One guy i know couldn't get his car to seat the rings so he sprayed the car with nitrous at a low rpms and it stopped burning oil.

Turnin20s

iTrader: (12)

I have heard that too. If it happens again this time around thats what I'll be doing