Nightmare at the track last night. Help
#1
Nightmare at the track last night. Help
brand new motor. Has some dyno time and I drove it about 80 miles up until last night.
First pass out at the 1/8 mile track in Denton.
I launched and hit 2nd gear and as I was about to put it in 3rd it went pop 4-5 times kinda like a nitrous back fire or something, but I dont have nitrous. It pretty much died after that and I shut it down and coasted.
It will now no longer start. It's turning over but will not start. It will back fire out the intake every now and then when i try to start it.
There was a mechanic out there looking at it and he thinks it could possibly be the opti??
Sound right to you guys?
I had to leave it out there over night until I figure out what im going to do.
First pass out at the 1/8 mile track in Denton.
I launched and hit 2nd gear and as I was about to put it in 3rd it went pop 4-5 times kinda like a nitrous back fire or something, but I dont have nitrous. It pretty much died after that and I shut it down and coasted.
It will now no longer start. It's turning over but will not start. It will back fire out the intake every now and then when i try to start it.
There was a mechanic out there looking at it and he thinks it could possibly be the opti??
Sound right to you guys?
I had to leave it out there over night until I figure out what im going to do.
#5
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From your description could be many things. Check the basics, fuel pressure and spark. I think if you own an LT1 you should have a cable to collect data it eliminates the what could it be, and gets you to this is what the car thinks it has.
If the fuel pressure regulator took a crap it could act like you are describing. Pops are never good and often are from lean mixture as well as ignition ie spark advance
Sorry to hear about the problems, but so far it doesn't sound that bad. Also there seems to be two schools of thought on breaking in an engine, baby them or drive them like you will. Personally I start the engine run a few minutes (no roller cams do not need a hi rpm breakin) check the engine for leaks and proper valve adjust etc, then give it what I built it for. If ithe engine has a problem why wait x miles to find it, I have never had an engine fix itself. But do what feels right to you.
Good luck and keep us posted
If the fuel pressure regulator took a crap it could act like you are describing. Pops are never good and often are from lean mixture as well as ignition ie spark advance
Sorry to hear about the problems, but so far it doesn't sound that bad. Also there seems to be two schools of thought on breaking in an engine, baby them or drive them like you will. Personally I start the engine run a few minutes (no roller cams do not need a hi rpm breakin) check the engine for leaks and proper valve adjust etc, then give it what I built it for. If ithe engine has a problem why wait x miles to find it, I have never had an engine fix itself. But do what feels right to you.
Good luck and keep us posted
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PS IF the fuel pressure regulator is bad buy an adjustable regulator. They are cheaper and allow some variation of fuel pressure. I don't change to variable until they fail, but they are nice to tweak injector size to what you need.
Also I assume you changed the fuel filter when you changed motor if not do it now.
Also I assume you changed the fuel filter when you changed motor if not do it now.
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#9
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I have gotten rebuilt optis that were bad. Why go through the change and have a 20 - 30 % chance of failure I replace once they fail.
#10
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Still check that the fuel pressure is in range. All parts can fail check the basics it might be opti but eliminate other things first since it is nearly impossible to be sure it is opti. Then when you change it you will know it will run and if it doesn't the reuilt opti is bad. I ALWAYS start with the new opti BEFORE putting it all back together!
Trust me I have been there easier to fix everything then when it starts you know ALL is well
Trust me I have been there easier to fix everything then when it starts you know ALL is well
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Another common problem with LT1s is grounds. The grounds all meet at the drivers front of head when an engine is worked on it is easy to break a ground wire.
I would definately check them I have actually had a few cars pickup at track with simply 'correcting' grounds. The reason is the electronics in the sensors and ECM require stable voltage to work properly when it varies their performance changes.
Like I said it is one of those small free changes that can help get more of what you have in your motor. Also in your case could be the reason it is sitting dead. If the wrong ground got disconnected you would lose your spark
Good luck
I would definately check them I have actually had a few cars pickup at track with simply 'correcting' grounds. The reason is the electronics in the sensors and ECM require stable voltage to work properly when it varies their performance changes.
Like I said it is one of those small free changes that can help get more of what you have in your motor. Also in your case could be the reason it is sitting dead. If the wrong ground got disconnected you would lose your spark
Good luck
#12
I will def check these when i get out there.
also going to diagnose the Opti using this stick from camaroz28.com
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601565
also going to diagnose the Opti using this stick from camaroz28.com
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601565
#13
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I will def check these when i get out there.
also going to diagnose the Opti using this stick from camaroz28.com
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601565
also going to diagnose the Opti using this stick from camaroz28.com
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=601565
From my quick scan of writeup I think the procedure will find the boken wire I mentioned. I think that your problem is more likely a bad ground than a dead opti (I hope for your sake). Most I had fail, operated well enough to start engine just ran like crap.
Mine have all worked eough not to set code but run like a turd.
Good luck let us know how it goes
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Did you use locktite on the screws holding the rotor? The rotors will fall off if the screws weren't held in place with locktite.
If the opti procedure passes check that spark gets to a plug if rotor is off it won't spark
If the opti procedure passes check that spark gets to a plug if rotor is off it won't spark
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Ha ha. Good call. If he isn't getting spark this is a definite possibility.
#18
I really appreciate all the good stuff you guys are giving me.
The ground problem is possible.
A few hours before I got on it just cruising and I threw a belt. But long story short we had problems with the harmonic balancer lining up and it was wearing the belt. and it was the belt that i had from prob 7 years ago. and it sat for 2 years while the car was being re-built.
So i would say it's possible that the belt got wild in there and could have knocked around some wire or something.
Who know's, but im going out right now to check all these things and see.
I'll keep you guy's updated
thanks
The ground problem is possible.
A few hours before I got on it just cruising and I threw a belt. But long story short we had problems with the harmonic balancer lining up and it was wearing the belt. and it was the belt that i had from prob 7 years ago. and it sat for 2 years while the car was being re-built.
So i would say it's possible that the belt got wild in there and could have knocked around some wire or something.
Who know's, but im going out right now to check all these things and see.
I'll keep you guy's updated
thanks
#19
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Can't change the world so best to roll along and laugh