Crank pulley removal (97 LT1)
09-23-2008, 01:53 PM
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Crank pulley removal (97 LT1) I've decided to replace the cap/rotor & look at the Opti, i'm down to the pulley, i removed the 3 outer bolts & the middle one, i'm guessing this pulley doesn't seperate from the center hub like others, what puller do i need?
09-23-2008, 02:22 PM
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The dampner comes loose from the hub and you don't need to remove the hub to get the opti off, just rotate it so it looks like a Y and then you can slide the opti off. The hub is a press fit so taking out the bolt and then using a steering wheel puller with nuts and bolts through the three holes of the hub will get it off if you want to. Make sure to use an extension or grade 8 bolt in the crank snout so you have something to push against.
09-23-2008, 02:43 PM
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The dampner comes loose from the hub and you don't need to remove the hub to get the opti off, just rotate it so it looks like a Y and then you can slide the opti off. The hub is a press fit so taking out the bolt and then using a steering wheel puller with nuts and bolts through the three holes of the hub will get it off if you want to. Make sure to use an extension or grade 8 bolt in the crank snout so you have something to push against.
As for changing the Opti, i would love to but i just don't have the funds to do both, it really wasn't that hard getting to the Opti, only took 1.1/2 hrs., i'm sure after 158K, the cap/rotor are built up with ****, now if the Opti is leaking oil from the seal, i'll have to replace it, just hopeing i can get by for now.
One more thing, do i need to remove the Opti to replace the cap/rotor?
09-23-2008, 03:01 PM
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Yeah you normally have to pry on it a little to get it off.
Technically I guess you don't need to, but I've never tried. Hopefully someone else can chime in there. Changing the opti seal on the cover if it's leaking obviously would require removal as well as any of the o-rings. When you put back together make sure you seal it up good with something.
Technically I guess you don't need to, but I've never tried. Hopefully someone else can chime in there. Changing the opti seal on the cover if it's leaking obviously would require removal as well as any of the o-rings. When you put back together make sure you seal it up good with something.
09-23-2008, 04:20 PM
#6
Ok, so i'll just put back the center hub bolt, the outer pulley didn't seem to want to come off, i guess i need to tap on it, i will make sure to mark the pulley & hub so it goes back on the same position, do these pulleys tend to stick to the hub?
As for changing the Opti, i would love to but i just don't have the funds to do both, it really wasn't that hard getting to the Opti, only took 1.1/2 hrs., i'm sure after 158K, the cap/rotor are built up with ****, now if the Opti is leaking oil from the seal, i'll have to replace it, just hopeing i can get by for now.
One more thing, do i need to remove the Opti to replace the cap/rotor?
As for changing the Opti, i would love to but i just don't have the funds to do both, it really wasn't that hard getting to the Opti, only took 1.1/2 hrs., i'm sure after 158K, the cap/rotor are built up with ****, now if the Opti is leaking oil from the seal, i'll have to replace it, just hopeing i can get by for now.
One more thing, do i need to remove the Opti to replace the cap/rotor?
You don't have to "mark" the pulley, as the bolt pattern is asymmetrical, and will only go on one way. However, you may have to "pursuade" the pulley off the hub. You can put the bolt back in the hub.
I'm pretty sure that you MIGHT be able to pull the cap and rotor off, and leave the opti housing in place. However, there are 2 o-rings on the back of the opti's input shaft that help keep the oil out of the opti. At that mileage, they probably could use replacing, as well as the seal between the front cover of the engine and the opti housing. I'd remove it. (personally, I don't see what goes "bad" in the opti, other than the cap and rotor. Yes, there is an optical sensor in there, and I don't know what it costs, but the cap and rotor are less than HALF of a generic replacement opti.)
09-23-2008, 04:28 PM
#7
bolting it like a regular crank pulley puller on an lt-1 wont work. you need to stick something small in the hole where the center bolt was, longer than the pulley a little bit. pull off that. the nose of the crank where the pulley slides on doesnt go all the way through the pulley so when you are using the puller you are actually pulling against the pulley on the pulley. if this makes sense....
shouldnt require any prying at ALL
shouldnt require any prying at ALL
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09-23-2008, 06:08 PM
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Just came home, got the Opti sitting on the table, just need to find or buy a hex socket to get the bolts off the cap, obviously this is my 1st. Opti pull, in all honesty, its pretty easy, the only real aggrivation were the waterpump houseing dial pins (being rusted) & causeing issues & the rear smaller pulley, it is IMO pressed on in some way, i got the front pulley off easy, but the rear one gave me trouble, maybe it was just stuck on from crud, i'll take pix of what i find inside after 158K miles, YES the 2 little O rings fell apart lol. I also see where the factory put a paint mark on the hub for TDC or #1 cyl., when i lined it straight up, pulled the Opti, the dial pin slot was pointing towards #1 thats marked on the back of the Opti, #6 was on the other side.
, its BS, sure i have plenty of male torx, no female. 
