Installed Monster clutch and new problems arose
08-14-2009, 07:10 PM
#1
Installed Monster clutch and new problems arose I started last night and finished up installing my Monster level 3 clutch today. My previous one was a Spec 3. I've previously had a Mcloud master, but it went bad a while ago so I'm running the stocker again with no problems until now (power shifted the hell out of it and it never missed a beat). I also had a problem with the fluid level dropping slowly but never found any fluid on the ground or on any components.
While the trans was out I replaced the slave just in case that's was causing the fluid problem and removed the shim per the instructions. The new clutch went in easily. I bled the system, but when testing it on jack stands with the motor running it's VERY difficult to get it into gear initially, indicating I believe that the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Once into gear you can run it through the gears with the motor running and it seems fine, but if you stop it then the problem comes back. I re bled it a bunch, but it never got any better (I've bled LS1's dozen's of times and never had this problem before, but there is a first time for everything, lol).
I contacted Monster and the general consensus was that it is a bleeding problem or a problem with the master. They recommended pressure bleeding it, so I'm borrowing a friend's vacuum tool to vacuum bleed it next week. I've also ordered a Tick master since the stock ones seem to cause problems alot of the time anyway and I seemed to have fluid disappearing slowly. Also, the adjustability might come in handy as I like a clutch that grabs high and this one feels like it's gonna grab close to the floor from how it feels so far (haven't driven it yet obviously).
Next week I'll install the new master and bleed the system and let you guys know how it goes.
While the trans was out I replaced the slave just in case that's was causing the fluid problem and removed the shim per the instructions. The new clutch went in easily. I bled the system, but when testing it on jack stands with the motor running it's VERY difficult to get it into gear initially, indicating I believe that the clutch isn't fully disengaging. Once into gear you can run it through the gears with the motor running and it seems fine, but if you stop it then the problem comes back. I re bled it a bunch, but it never got any better (I've bled LS1's dozen's of times and never had this problem before, but there is a first time for everything, lol).
I contacted Monster and the general consensus was that it is a bleeding problem or a problem with the master. They recommended pressure bleeding it, so I'm borrowing a friend's vacuum tool to vacuum bleed it next week. I've also ordered a Tick master since the stock ones seem to cause problems alot of the time anyway and I seemed to have fluid disappearing slowly. Also, the adjustability might come in handy as I like a clutch that grabs high and this one feels like it's gonna grab close to the floor from how it feels so far (haven't driven it yet obviously).
Next week I'll install the new master and bleed the system and let you guys know how it goes.
08-15-2009, 05:01 AM
#4
Yeah, I'll definitely do that. I can't drive it as it sits now, because it won't disengage fully and goes very hard into gear from a stop (and not at all into reverse). I don't want to drive it until it's working properly so I don't hurt the clutch, but once it's bled I'll start breaking it in and see if it improves.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
08-15-2009, 08:08 AM
#5
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If you still have your mcloed master rebuild it and put it in. There very easy to rebuild and cheap to. Just get a wheel cylinder honing tool and new rubber cups and your good to go. Heres the part numbers Wilwood rebuid kit 260-5921 or
Napa PN 12400
Napa PN 12400
Last edited by smokeum99ta; 08-15-2009 at 08:18 AM.
08-15-2009, 08:48 PM
#7
On a few 3.5's we did it was very notchy to get into 1st or reverse when it was new.I figure this is probly caused by high spots in the clutch.After some break in miles the cars shifted perfectly and no more problems going into those gears anymore.
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08-16-2009, 07:02 AM
#9
I was wondering if it could be something like that, but it's extremely hard to get it into first and won't go into reverse at all, so I figure it's probably dragging a bit. I should be able to vacuum bleed it and install the new master later this week so hopefully I'll have good news once the new parts are in.
08-16-2009, 12:05 PM
#10
I tried to get this car into first gear and gave up because I felt like I was going to hurt something in the transmission. That's how difficult it is. SRZ had to literally muscle it into first and then the wheels immediately started spinning. From what I saw, it's pretty clear the clutch isn't even coming close to fully disengaging. You definitely can't drive the car as it sits.
08-16-2009, 08:03 PM
#11
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I think it might be a good chance that its just your master cylinder getting a bit tired. It might have worked well on your spec 3 because by the time you put the old master back in, the spec 3 was broken in and a bit worn out. Now that you have another new tough pressure plate in there, it just cant do the job now. Same thing happened to me when I put a heavy clutch in my friends Supra TT. We put a master in it and problem solved. My bet is that the Tock will take care of it, and stop trying to force it into gear in the mean time. good luck.
08-17-2009, 07:15 AM
#12
I think it might be a good chance that its just your master cylinder getting a bit tired. It might have worked well on your spec 3 because by the time you put the old master back in, the spec 3 was broken in and a bit worn out. Now that you have another new tough pressure plate in there, it just cant do the job now. Same thing happened to me when I put a heavy clutch in my friends Supra TT. We put a master in it and problem solved. My bet is that the Tock will take care of it, and stop trying to force it into gear in the mean time. good luck.
I haven't played around with it (forcing it into gear) except for a couple times when I first got the clutch in and then once more to move the car out of the garage. Other than that the car has just sat and I haven't touched it. Later this week I'll get the new master in and bleed the system and let you guys know how it goes.
08-17-2009, 01:48 PM
#13
I agree with most here, it's either air in the system or the plagued master cylinder problem.
Either way, we've got more Level 3's out there than any of our other clutches, with over 1,000 on the street now we've never had disengagment issues that were the pressure plate or disc problem, all of them have been hydraulic. Call me if you have any other questions.
Either way, we've got more Level 3's out there than any of our other clutches, with over 1,000 on the street now we've never had disengagment issues that were the pressure plate or disc problem, all of them have been hydraulic. Call me if you have any other questions.
). Results should be posted tonight.
08-20-2009, 04:06 PM
#17
Ok, I got my Tick master yesterday and threw it in today. Definitely not a fun job between it's size and that freaking bracket under the dash that the bolts have to go through, but it was well worth the effort. I bled it while it was out of the car and then adjusted it until I was able to put it in gear normally. The pedal felt much better also.
I then took it to a flat spot and did the high rpm rollout test and it moved slightly above 6K rpm. I adjusted it out a bit more and it got better, only moving very slightly. I then drove it for about 4 miles and everything felt good. I did the test once more and the car barely moved so I'm gonna leave it alone until I get it broken in and then test it again and see how it shifts at high rpm at WOT.
Initial driving impressions (after the first 9 miles
) are very good. The pedal feels firm, but light compared to the other aftermarket clutches I've driven. The clutch also grabs hard, but does not chatter at all. It'll probably take a month or so to get it broken in, but as soon as it is I'll let you guys know how high rpm shifts and launches go 
I then took it to a flat spot and did the high rpm rollout test and it moved slightly above 6K rpm. I adjusted it out a bit more and it got better, only moving very slightly. I then drove it for about 4 miles and everything felt good. I did the test once more and the car barely moved so I'm gonna leave it alone until I get it broken in and then test it again and see how it shifts at high rpm at WOT.
Initial driving impressions (after the first 9 miles
) are very good. The pedal feels firm, but light compared to the other aftermarket clutches I've driven. The clutch also grabs hard, but does not chatter at all. It'll probably take a month or so to get it broken in, but as soon as it is I'll let you guys know how high rpm shifts and launches go
08-20-2009, 07:23 PM
#18
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same exact problem and i orderd my tick today.hopefully it sovles my problem to.if i would of new i was gonna have to spend this much money on this clutch i would have want a different route.
