LS7 clutch installed, hydraulics bled...
09-24-2009, 09:15 AM
#1
LS7 clutch installed, hydraulics bled... Just finished installing the LS7 clutch kit from KY Speed (thanks Mark).
Pedal pressure is light compared to the Spec 3 that was in there and it engages 2-3" off the floor. It feels much closer to a stock clutch and is very easy to drive. I didnt mind the Spec but it was totally opposite of this (much stiffer pedal and engaged right at the top).
Also, I had a wierd vibration at 1800 rpm. With the clutch pedal pressed and the engine revved, the steering wheel would vibrate side to side about 1/2". It happened only around 1800 rpm. And now that is gone, everything is totally smooth.
I installed a new slave cylinder at the same time. I'm curious why everyone is having so much trouble bleeding these?? Seems the majority of the threads say they have been bleeding for hours or are having shifting issues because of improper bleeding. I hooked the new slave to the master...filled the master to the top with fresh fluid...opened the bleeder valve and watched the fluid run out. At first it was discolored (been in there for 8k miles), then it turned clean. After that I had a friend press the pedal as I opened the bleeder just to make sure all the air was out, did that a few times but didnt get any air bubbles coming out, just straight fluid. Total time was about 15 minutes.
With the rearend on jackstands and the car running with the clutch pedal pressed, the rear wheels don't move. All gears are easy to engage with the engine on or off and with the clutch in or out. I did not mess with the 'adjustment' springs before I installed it..all were in the same position comprerssed to a length of about 1.25".
Overall I'm very happy. Over the winter I'm thinking about a Tick master, but it doesn't feel necessary at this point. To the archives this one goes
Mike
Pedal pressure is light compared to the Spec 3 that was in there and it engages 2-3" off the floor. It feels much closer to a stock clutch and is very easy to drive. I didnt mind the Spec but it was totally opposite of this (much stiffer pedal and engaged right at the top).
Also, I had a wierd vibration at 1800 rpm. With the clutch pedal pressed and the engine revved, the steering wheel would vibrate side to side about 1/2". It happened only around 1800 rpm. And now that is gone, everything is totally smooth.
I installed a new slave cylinder at the same time. I'm curious why everyone is having so much trouble bleeding these?? Seems the majority of the threads say they have been bleeding for hours or are having shifting issues because of improper bleeding. I hooked the new slave to the master...filled the master to the top with fresh fluid...opened the bleeder valve and watched the fluid run out. At first it was discolored (been in there for 8k miles), then it turned clean. After that I had a friend press the pedal as I opened the bleeder just to make sure all the air was out, did that a few times but didnt get any air bubbles coming out, just straight fluid. Total time was about 15 minutes.
With the rearend on jackstands and the car running with the clutch pedal pressed, the rear wheels don't move. All gears are easy to engage with the engine on or off and with the clutch in or out. I did not mess with the 'adjustment' springs before I installed it..all were in the same position comprerssed to a length of about 1.25".
Overall I'm very happy. Over the winter I'm thinking about a Tick master, but it doesn't feel necessary at this point. To the archives this one goes
Mike
09-25-2009, 01:12 PM
#2
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So are you using your original factory master?
If so, just curious how many miles it has on it?
I just picked up an LS7 clutch, pressure plate and flywheel (and the throw out bearing) and I AM going to replace the slave since I'm gonna be in there, but I'm debating whether or not to replace the master right now.
I'm thinking that it's a Factory "style" clutch, so the adjustable master MAY not be needed...
Plus, the master is replaceable without dropping the trans, so worst case, I could always replace it later..
If so, just curious how many miles it has on it?
I just picked up an LS7 clutch, pressure plate and flywheel (and the throw out bearing) and I AM going to replace the slave since I'm gonna be in there, but I'm debating whether or not to replace the master right now.
I'm thinking that it's a Factory "style" clutch, so the adjustable master MAY not be needed...
Plus, the master is replaceable without dropping the trans, so worst case, I could always replace it later..
09-25-2009, 02:17 PM
#5
Well thats up to you. It is possible to change the master w/o having the tranny out and by the looks of it I can't imagine it's an easier job either way. The bracket that holds the master cyl to the firewall is a tough one to get in there. The slave cylinder is a different story...I wouldnt do a clutch w/o that too.
I would say an adjustable master is not needed.
I do like the looks of the Tick master but I'll be waiting on a sale because $340 is a little hard to justify if the stock one is doing the job fine.
I would say an adjustable master is not needed.
I do like the looks of the Tick master but I'll be waiting on a sale because $340 is a little hard to justify if the stock one is doing the job fine.
09-25-2009, 03:44 PM
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Thanks for the info, man!
Greatly appreciated.
I'm ordering the slave now.
As far as the master is concerned, I'm gonna check around for a good price on an adjustable one, but I probably won't sweat it right now.
I have access to a lift, so it's not like I plan on doing this work on my garage floor or anything.
To be honest, I think the master is one part that I wouldn't think "looking cool" would have any bearing on whether or not you bought it... at least not for me. But I do like the IDEA of an adjustable master if needed.
It just doesn't sound like it's NEEDED based on other feedback I've gotten on the LS7 clutch setup.
Greatly appreciated.
I'm ordering the slave now.
As far as the master is concerned, I'm gonna check around for a good price on an adjustable one, but I probably won't sweat it right now.
I have access to a lift, so it's not like I plan on doing this work on my garage floor or anything.
To be honest, I think the master is one part that I wouldn't think "looking cool" would have any bearing on whether or not you bought it... at least not for me. But I do like the IDEA of an adjustable master if needed.
It just doesn't sound like it's NEEDED based on other feedback I've gotten on the LS7 clutch setup.
09-25-2009, 05:49 PM
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Just finished installing the LS7 clutch kit from KY Speed (thanks Mark).
Pedal pressure is light compared to the Spec 3 that was in there and it engages 2-3" off the floor. It feels much closer to a stock clutch and is very easy to drive. I didnt mind the Spec but it was totally opposite of this (much stiffer pedal and engaged right at the top).
Also, I had a wierd vibration at 1800 rpm. With the clutch pedal pressed and the engine revved, the steering wheel would vibrate side to side about 1/2". It happened only around 1800 rpm. And now that is gone, everything is totally smooth.
I installed a new slave cylinder at the same time. I'm curious why everyone is having so much trouble bleeding these?? Seems the majority of the threads say they have been bleeding for hours or are having shifting issues because of improper bleeding. I hooked the new slave to the master...filled the master to the top with fresh fluid...opened the bleeder valve and watched the fluid run out. At first it was discolored (been in there for 8k miles), then it turned clean. After that I had a friend press the pedal as I opened the bleeder just to make sure all the air was out, did that a few times but didnt get any air bubbles coming out, just straight fluid. Total time was about 15 minutes.
With the rearend on jackstands and the car running with the clutch pedal pressed, the rear wheels don't move. All gears are easy to engage with the engine on or off and with the clutch in or out. I did not mess with the 'adjustment' springs before I installed it..all were in the same position comprerssed to a length of about 1.25".
Overall I'm very happy. Over the winter I'm thinking about a Tick master, but it doesn't feel necessary at this point. To the archives this one goes
Mike
Pedal pressure is light compared to the Spec 3 that was in there and it engages 2-3" off the floor. It feels much closer to a stock clutch and is very easy to drive. I didnt mind the Spec but it was totally opposite of this (much stiffer pedal and engaged right at the top).
Also, I had a wierd vibration at 1800 rpm. With the clutch pedal pressed and the engine revved, the steering wheel would vibrate side to side about 1/2". It happened only around 1800 rpm. And now that is gone, everything is totally smooth.
I installed a new slave cylinder at the same time. I'm curious why everyone is having so much trouble bleeding these?? Seems the majority of the threads say they have been bleeding for hours or are having shifting issues because of improper bleeding. I hooked the new slave to the master...filled the master to the top with fresh fluid...opened the bleeder valve and watched the fluid run out. At first it was discolored (been in there for 8k miles), then it turned clean. After that I had a friend press the pedal as I opened the bleeder just to make sure all the air was out, did that a few times but didnt get any air bubbles coming out, just straight fluid. Total time was about 15 minutes.
With the rearend on jackstands and the car running with the clutch pedal pressed, the rear wheels don't move. All gears are easy to engage with the engine on or off and with the clutch in or out. I did not mess with the 'adjustment' springs before I installed it..all were in the same position comprerssed to a length of about 1.25".
Overall I'm very happy. Over the winter I'm thinking about a Tick master, but it doesn't feel necessary at this point. To the archives this one goes
Mike
thanks for the support and kind words,
Let me know on the Tick master as we are a dealer with them.
Thanks,
Mark
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09-25-2009, 06:00 PM
#8
the pedal difference going from my spec unit to my current ls7 clutch was a PITA. spec unit would grab less than an inch from the top; ls7, literally .5 inch off the floor
